331 daily driver

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What they make depends on how you build them. 8.5:1 compression would be blower/turbo friendly.

As long as you dont go radical with the cam, gearing and boost, I dont see why you couldnt drive it coast to coast with the A/C blasting.
 
well unfortunately no air for me, but i was about to order a 306 kit and i got the block and everything and my buddy showed me a forged 331 kit for 20 dollars more using the same keith black pistons and blower nitrous friend with a 8:5 compression instead of a 9:1 compression with hyper pistons

well anyways pro's and con's of a 331 stroker its gonna be a semi daily driver, its gonna be cranked every morning but not driven 50 miles a day to work

i want to make more torque down low but i also want to scream to like 6400 rpm with windsor heads, i cant afford aluminum if im stroking it out , so i heard ported windsor heads would do, either cobra intake or a trickflow for some reason i have this fetish for a cobra intake up grade fuel system etc. 24-30lb injectors full exhaust blah blah

everything to compliment the set up except heads (yeah yeah i know)

would that give me a decent daily driver? lol i know its a bit much but i got carried away and ive been working alot lately and its gona win me a **** load on the street.
 
with a cam thats not to extreme (as said before ) and a foot tahts not always on the gas, theres no reason as to why your car should be capable of a daily driver. Will it get the best gas mileage? Not the best, but then again not the worst.
 
oh saturday nights, this car is gona wish it was in the junkyard im gonna run it to hell ,

as i plan on racing it about 40 miles away every saturday night maybe 2-3 times a week even but otherwise ill be pretty nice to it. i mean i got school less then 2 miles away and my job 5.3 miles a day highway driving. Daily ill get on it once or twice run it about 20 miles. Now on saturday nights and whenever else im called out im gonna squeeze everything i can out of it and probably open it up 5-6 times on the way their

thats about as accurate as i can get on how im gona drive it.......
 
If you're gonna truly be racing it 100-150 times a year -- then that's what you need to build it to stand up to (and good luck with that). If it stands up to that, it should live on the street. There's nothing magical about the cubes - 306, 331 (it's actually 332) or 347 - properly built any of those will be just fine on the street. How radically you build it will determine what kind of drivability you have on the street.

However, if you're really gonna build a blown 331 as your daily driver, and race it that much - well, I'd be prepared with some kind of alternate transportation - cause you're gonna break stuff with that much racing. And it won't just be engine bits - better beef up that driveline/suspension.
 
its not gona be blown right away got to have something to look forward to(plus i spent all my money on the kit ) im making sure its all forged machined by only the best only the best kit etc........

so hopefully i can treat it like any other 302 daily driver just plenty of torque and horsepower over stock

i got a 190 fuel pump and 24lb injectors hope that was a good investment of money.
 
Ideal situation is this - size your fuel pump for your ultimate HP - won't hurt a thing to run the larger pump even though you can't use all the capacity. On your injector size - you just have a choice to make. You can pick the size you'll need for when it's ultimately blown, and then work carefully with your maf/ecu calibration to get them to work correctly. Or you can use the 24's for now, and upgrade when you add boost. If it were mine and I knew I was a year or two away from adding the boost, I'd probably put the 24's in it now and cross the bigger-injector-bridge when I got to it.
 
You'll get dyno numbers all over the board depending on the aggressiveness of the build. I'd suggest you decide exactly what it is you expect out of the car/engine - how are you gonna use it? Street? Daily driver? A/C? Regular interstate cruising, stop and go traffic? Race occasionally? Race only? Emissions legal? Fuel economy important? You need clear answers to all those kinds of questions - and then build towards your goal. Otherwise you'll end up with someone else's idea of a 'good' engine -- which isn't a problem unless it doesn't match up with your ideas and their good ideas end up under your hood.
 
On CR - the more boost you want to run, lower compression ratios and intercooling will let you run more timing, leaner mixtures and lower octane fuel with less risk of detonation - a no-no under boost. If you're building a boosted stroker for the street, 6-8 psi boost will really wake up a strong 331 - and you should be able to manage that with 9:1 compression ratio as long as it's intercooled.
 
Michael Yount said:
You'll get dyno numbers all over the board depending on the aggressiveness of the build. I'd suggest you decide exactly what it is you expect out of the car/engine - how are you gonna use it? Street? Daily driver? A/C? Regular interstate cruising, stop and go traffic? Race occasionally? Race only? Emissions legal? Fuel economy important? You need clear answers to all those kinds of questions - and then build towards your goal. Otherwise you'll end up with someone else's idea of a 'good' engine -- which isn't a problem unless it doesn't match up with your ideas and their good ideas end up under your hood.
Thats great advice! More good props go out to Mike. :nice:
You should definatly have a goal in mind before you go spending your money. I have seen it to many times and learned from experience.
 
Jay - what's better is what's better to you. If building the most power you can for the least money is what's most important to you - sounds like you already have your answer. I think for most people, the 302 based strokers make sense when people want more displacement/power/torque, but they also want to take advantage of a block they already have, they want much of their exisiting equipment to bolt onto to it, and they like the idea of a physically smaller, lighter package. But if that stuff isn't important to you -- then you know what to do.
 
Jay5_o said:
I got a quick question..... Whats better a stroked 331,347.... OR just a plain old 351w
To me it would make more sense to get a 351w then to strock a 302 to a 331 or a 347? More cubes and cost less..

I had a thread going that discussed this, but it seems to have been deleted. Maybe some oldtimers will remember the thread and chime in...

A 347 will outrun a 351W ( or 357W, bored .030). The 347 will even outrun a slightly more powerful 351W. This is from the lightweight internals used in the 347. This weight advantage is around 25 pounds less of rotating weight. Think how much your 5.0 revs with a lighter aluminum flywheel, now you can see what I'm talking about. Now with the lighter 347 internals setup, the engine will be a natural to rev higher than the 351W. The 347 has less rotating weight to accellerate, and less bearing surface to create friction. This cannot be overcome by by a mere 10 extra cubes. Some guys just need to have the edge and you can get 373 cubes out of any Ford 302 block if ya know how to do it. Of course the engine will have a poor rod ratio, some pistons with a 1.00 pin height and the engine might not be the best in a dailey driver. But, it will run down the track a bunch of times and will make close to 500HP with a decent H/C/I selection rather easily. Unfortunately, the cost to build a such an engine my be to much for the average guy.
 
Jay - factory cam and heads will go in/bolt on - but they will strangle a 351 because they were designed for 50 less cubes. The firing order of the HO cam is different than the 351's - so if you're using the 351 dizzy, it has to be reordered to match the 302's firing order. The intakes won't work - at least the lower intake. THe 351W has a 9.5" deck height, the 302 is 8.2" - so a wider intake is necessary on the 351. Some of the upper intakes will swap over (efi applications).

StormWatch - your statement "A 347 will outrun a 351W " seems overly broad. HP is HP; it depends on how the engines are built - a 300 HP 347 will be outrun by a 400HP 351; a 400HP 347 will outrun a 300 HP 351 - all else equal. I suspect both can be built to similar output levels with enough money. And as the HP gets higher, because of 5.0L block limitations, I think the 347 will cost more to match HP and reliability with a similar displacement 351 based motor. There's not really an apples to apples comparison that can be made with these - it all depends on what you want.