Hi Folks I'm having a tough time getting the 351w in my 67 Ranchero to run. I built the engine a bit over a year ago. I've had it running roughly a couple times, but life got in the way. Now I'm motivated to get it going. To wit, I have it built with 284 Comp Cams roller cam, roller rockers, Ford billet damper, TFS heads, 4160 holley carb, performer rpm, T5, original distributor with Pertronix. Have an MSD 6AL, but it isn't installed yet. I have fuel, I appear to have spark at least some of the time. After I first got it running (it was running rough but sounded sweet above 2,000 rpm), I tried to time it and the strobe wouldn't light on any of the marks on the damper. The damper has two sets of timing marks, so I figured I screwed that up. I pulled the plugs and distributor, rotated the crank so that I felt air pressure coming out of cylinder 1, then continuted to rotate to the 0 degree mark on the damper. Reinstalled dist and plugs. No luck, now it won't fire at all. Tried the other set of marks - no go. I'm at my wit's end. Any suggestions? Anyone want to come to central Tucson and give me a hand? Thanks Steve sstewartAThwrDOTarizonaDOTedu
The air method may work. I have never tried that. I use a pencil and watch it as it comes up. When it stops, I figure that is close enough to TDC to begin timing it. You might want to double check your TDC on #1.
Your positive you have the right firing order? I know a guy that put a roller 302 cam in his 302 with a kit and he couldn't figure out why it wouldn't run right. we checked for vacuum leaks and other stuff, it didn't run too bad, which really kept me away from thinking the firing order wasn't right. We went inside and ate dinner and went back out and it finally hit me like a brick. Changed the wires and it ran like a champ, couldn't tune it any better, so I guess if you can get it to run the best you can with the wrong firing order, once you get the right one, its perfect.
I would check firing order for sure. Also, since this is an aftermarket damper, I wouldn't use the damper markes to determine TDC. I would make sure the piston is at TDC through other methods first.
definately sounds like a timing issue to me also. The problem with the air test is that it works on the exhaust stroke also. What you should do is pull the pass. side valve cover and watch the rocker arms on the #1 cylinder as you turn the engine. Wait for the intake valve to close then watch for TDC on the balancer. Index the dist./rotor to the #1 post on the dist. cap. Now you're on the right revolution, you just have to get the plugs to fire in whatever order your cam is ground for. It should fire up once this is done, then you can set your advance and whatnot.
That cam won't work well at all until at least 2000 rpms. So the lack of power and rough running below 2k is expected. As to why its not running, I would try and get that timing fixed.
I agree with both of these posts. If your damper is off, you can make a temporary timing indicator with a coat hanger wire on a front cover bolt.
update - still won't start OK....I certain that I have the dizzy in correctly now. Now I'm wondering if it is something in the wiring. I have a Unilite dizzy and MSD Blaster coil (both new). I have spark form the high tension lead of the coil, but it appears weak. With the ignition on, i get 3 volts on the + side of the coil with everything hooked up. When i check voltage from the ignition switch wire with the wire unhooked from the coil, I get 12v (that is the case either with or without the MSD ballast resistor there. I get 6v at the I side of the starter solenoid. If I pull the only wire hooked up there off and check the wire, I still get 6 volts. If there is an extra ballast resistor somewhere, would it be under the dash? Thanks Steve
steve, where in tucson are you? i will be back in town tomorrow, give me a day or two to get my car unloaded, and settle back in and i can stop by and help you if you need it. email me.
