Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Classic Mustang Specific Tech' started by js66coupe, Jan 3, 2010.
I built a 393 a couple of years ago on the cheap that I had to sell.
e4 block, football rods with arp bolts, scat crank, probe pistons.
Ended up building the motor for a total of $1,500 for all the parts and machine work.
made 460rwhp n/a with a TKO and 9:1 compression with some victor jrs, street solid roller (built for turbo) and a box upper.
Is now in the process of putting a garrett gt47 on it.
X2, thats my next build. However a 4.165 bore, 4.1 rod and 8000 shift point with Victor Sr heads. N/A, ditching the turbo idea.
Hey man. What made you ditch the turbo idea? I had to skip power adder this year. I bought a 05 GT with a Vortech on it. Only had 10,000 miles on it. And had 15K in upgrades.. Picked it up for bluebook. Couldnt pass it up, and needed a new daily driver anyway. My 65 Is about to hit the ground again. got the new suspension in.. What a process.
I dunno, I love the nasty noise of a big compression big cammed motor. Sure I could make more power with a turbo, but its just more impressive to me having a fast all motor car on small tires. Shooting for 800's in hp NA, which is enough to go pretty damn fast.
I gotta start on my AJE suspension, just been lazy pulling the motor out.
Awnser me this??????
Alright guys this might sound a little off but I am going with a cast 351w block and cast heads and I know that most of you guys are more for aluminum heads but I am still going with cast. I want to build a 351w to a 408 and I want to bore it .40 over and go with a voodoo streetable cam lol I know I know over 500 lift is not that great for the street but the car I am putting together is going to be driven on average 100 miles a year! I am going to spend about four years on the motor because I bought my son an convertible Saleen and he is four now so I figure he will be ready and I will be done with school by then. I don't want so much horsepower he can't handle it at eight so I figure around 500 is good for that age lol trust me he can handle it! I just need to know a good intake and exaust valve size for the heads? I am going with a 458 gear in the car because 450hp with a 410 gear isn't good enough and yes you can beliveve that its going to have the locker and spool. A 331 is not enough trust me I have had 5 of them lol but I want to do this one right so any suggestions would be great and I hate to say it if I can't find what I am looking for I will buy the adaptor kit and just put a 383 stroker in it and get exactly what I am looking for!!!!
The cost is going to be close if you do it right so I'd go with the 408. As far as the AFR 185s go I think they would be fine for a street engine that will hardly ever see high rpms. If you're going to race then definitely go bigger.
So if i went with a 393 roller cam and AFR 205 heads...
would it work well on my 4.11 gears, AOD (.67 overdrive gear), and 2500rpm cruise at 75mph on the freeway? I'm guessing i'd be fine, since lots of 383 chevys run higher rpms with TH350s and 3.73 gears
how will the raised exhaust port affect my header-to-shocktower clearance? as i recall, the exhaust port is vertical, and not at an angle. this would mean that if the header is raised, there should be more room between the head and the sloped shocktower
i'd also plan on a 2500 stall converter. initially id keep my 650 Holley, but would go bigger later on
i've read the 393W assembly is much more difficult to balance as compared to the 408W.
is this for a 65/66?
for what you're doing i would recommend the TW's over the HP's.
the HP's can potentially create more issues concerning clearance for the headers. you will have a much larger group of people to give you feedback when it comes to headers if you stick with a closer to stock port location.
i have high ports in my 69 with a 418W. I had a lot of issues mainly with the clutch linkage and bellhousing. your situation could be different given that you don't have a z-bar to deal with. i personally didn't have issues with clearance to the floorpans, framerails or aprons.