ok guys i am going to do a write-up from basic 4.6l mustang to a 500rwhp beast i will include all parts ordered as well as take picture of the parts i will try and show if i can squeeze 500rwhp out of a svt focus pump and bap per mph the pump should be good upto 500 with the bap ok to start this off the parts i have on the car are as followed THE CAR BLACK 2000 GT View attachment 53679 -------EXUAST SIDE------ bbk long tube headers bbk o/r x-pipe magnaflow cat back exuast ------INTAKE SIDE------- bbk plenum 75mm tb -----POWER ADDER------ sq-trim vortech 3.60 pulley diy front mount intercooler -----SHORTBLOCK---------- just ordered***** mph 800shortblock w/arp main studs -----HEADS------------ stock heads just ordered ****** mph blower camms w/comp valve springs just ordered the shortblock and camms from mph as stated i will be removing my stock heads from my old motor and putting them on my new shortblock like i said i will include pictures of what i have done and whats needed i will also include any changes needed like smaller pulley or heads if money allows to get to my goal once i get home today i will take pictures of the cars engine bay and diy parts i have dyno car with just cat-back,prochamber,cai --------------- ------(248rwhp/279rwtq) dyno car lt headers,x-pipe,tb,plenum,sq-trim 8psi and tims tune--- (371rwhp/364rwtq)--(+123rwhp) update : dyno car above plus patriot stg2 heads mmr900,mph cams -(446rwhp/414rwtq)--(+75rwhp) update : dyno above plus fmic ,14psi and jpc tune limited do to fuel 6200rpms-(544rwhp)-(+98rwhp)
Nice! Only problem with the BAP and focus pump is it lowers the life expectancy of the pump a bit What size pulley/how many psi are you planning to run?
not sure on the boost needed but with the camms i am sure it will not max out the blower even with stock heads as far as the fuel goes in the long run i am going for the cobra tank and pumps but i want to see how far the bap and svt can take me before i need more fuel i am going for reliability over performance as this car is my daily driver so i dont want to push anything to its limit and keep it there example if svt and bap max out at say 510rwhp then i will dail power back to say 460rwhp until i get the tank and pumps STARTING TO TAKE THINGS APART
Yeah the blower will be fine till 600whp or so. What MAF are you going to be running? A lightning maf will peg before 500whp usually, so that's another couple bucks to think about for an SCT maf.
jdsperformance.com carries the pmas for blow-througth set-up should be good for my goal or sct maf works great as you said
That will be a hell of a sleeper. 500RWHP out of a 2V GT car. Nobody will expect that! They pull really hard with big boost. I rode in a 10.30-10.50 car. 1996 Mustang GT conv with a 4R70W and 15-16psi...WOW!!
Tim has made 600RWHP with the stock heads, but using his cams. Ofcourse it had a built block. (Im pretty sure it was an S trim....but i could be wrong) Im pretty sure just a set of cams and boltons, along with a small pulley would get you to 500. Stock bottom end should last a while as well.
The S(Q)-Trim will move enough volume through the stock heads with the stock cams to meed the air demands needed for 500rwhp. You just gotta spin em hard and keep the air charge cool.
With a 5spd you could get 500rwhp with an S-Trim My car made 430rwhp on a Mustangdyno and only revving the car out to 5500rpms and I normally rev to 6750. This was through a messed up auto that was definitely sucking power. That would be about 460-470rwhp on a dynojet, I’m sure it would have made an extra 30rwhp if I would have revved it out all the way and if the tranny was up to par. This was with the mods in my sig except for the T-Trim. I'll have new numbers within the next two weeks, weather permitting, with my T-Trim and new auto.
Yeah, the nice thing about 4.6's are the strong blocks too! I am amazed at what these cars do with boost, lol. edit: This also makes me wonder why you would need a stronger block.
The blocks themselves may be tough as nails, but the internals inside them are about as rigid as tinker toys. A new block alone is only worth about $200-$300, so most companies sell them complete and assembled with the needed forged components to save you the hassle of having to put it together yourself.
