a few questions on my 289 build. driveline ??s too

[Big Chuck]

i am just starting to plan out the rebuild on my old 289 (casting number C5AE-6015E, its an old 66 rusted out 2bbl), and wanted some input from you wise folk here. first off, im on a budget, so i am planning on getting anything that needs machining taken care of, and then build the engine myself with the help of family and friends. what i want to do is build the short block strong the first time around and then reuse and rebuild the heads, intake, carb ect. until i can earn enough money to take care of the the top end in a year or so.

1) i am reusing the connecting rods, crank and bearing caps, they all seam to be in good condition. i want a high reving motor and i was wondering what rpms i could expect out of a 289 with stock components. i eventually want 300hp+ at the wheels and i was wondering if it would help to either get some studs for the main caps instead of the old bolts or maybe even a girdle, but i dont want to go overkill.
2) does anyone have preferences when it comes to brands of rebuild kits or pistons, rings, gaskets, timing chains, or any other parts that i need to build a bullet proof bottom end?
3) here is a tranny question: i am using the old 3 spd stick as well the 2somethingratio highway gears for a while until the engine gets the way i like it. i will replace the rear end in the distant future, but i was wondering if the 3spd is worth anything as far taking some punishment from hard launching and shifting. is there anything out there to help improve this transmission or should i just start looking for a 4 spd toploader?

i think thats it for now, and i thought i should mention it will be a daily driver, so driveability is definately an issue.

thanks in advance-
Chuck

 

[restomod]

if i were you i would use arp rod bolts and main studs. as far as bearings i like cleavite bearings . the three speed should be ok ,if it is in good shape.i would port the heads myself after the bigger valves were added. i would call comp cams and give them the specs on the car and i would go with the cam they recomend.as far as pistons go . it really depends on what you are really wanting to do down the road . will you use no2 or turbo charge it.as you see it all depends on what you want to do.i myself always use forged pistons. good luck

 

[Big Chuck]

yeah, im not planning on any forced induction or juice. naturally aspirated only. are the fedral-mogul (spelling?) rebuild kits off of summit any good? i think they come with TRW forged pistons.
and what kind of compression ratio should i be looking for? since im not doing any forced induction, i guess the only things barring how high the ratio are my head gaskets?

 

[Edbert]

300rwhp with a normally aspirated 289 is a tall order for stock heads and no laughing gas. Not impossible but you're gonna want 2.02/1.60 valves a healthy cam, and probaly a stroker kit. I think that blows the concept of a tight budget apart, just my $0.02. 300fwhp is another matter though, Carol got over that with a good intake and headers on the K-code.

 

[Big Chuck]

well, down the road, i plan on swapping out some different heads. either some cast gt-40, or gt-40p, or 351w. i just want to move faster than my heavy ass explorer with a 5.0. for now a stroker kit is out of the question. and straying from the budget isnt an option right now unless a miracle happens. i would be happy with 250+rwhp when all is said and done.
but for right now, my goal is to build up the bottom end and get the car mobile.
another question, what are yall's opinions on tri-y style headers, and where would be the best place to aquire some?

 

[restomod]

the summit kits are of good quality.i have used them in the past.i have not used tri-y headers.i have used hooker super comps and hedman headers ,and i like both brands.if you want tri-ys then all i can say is don't buy the cheap ones.

 

[Big Chuck]

can you specify between the cheap tri-y's and the good quality ones for me. maybe a link to a good place to get some.

 

[sixtyfive]

Hooker supercomps

 

[Edbert]

can you specify between the cheap tri-y's and the good quality ones for me. maybe a link to a good place to get some.

Many tri-y headers are cheap in their material and construction, even a cheap set will last 4-6 years in my experience. To answer an earlier question...tri-y headers are generally thought of as good torque adders with a resultant loss of top end HP, that is why they are so popular with 289 owners including Carol Shelby

I would sugest you buy a set of quality headers (tri-y or 4-into-1) once you have settled down with your plans somewhat and are sure you've got the machine where you want her. Invest in the ceramic coating inside and out and they'll live practically forever.