AC LINE + HEADER = PROBLEMS

Bosko5.0

Active Member
May 18, 2006
1,067
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longwood, FL
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the header is touching the ac line:mad:

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A TIGHT FIT!



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but other than that it looks good:nice:


know heres all the problems Ive come up against: and solution

header touching ac line=???
header close to starter= wrapped starter with header wrap
header touching shifter linkage= bend linkage
x brace wont fit back on (driver side)=???
BBK O2 extensions wont fit= rewire stock o2s to lenght
egr tube cracked=???
O2s wont fit in collectors= move O2s to h pipe

but other than that it looks good
I know why the mustang has alot of low end torque!
 

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The "A/C radiator" is called a 'condenser' (takes the hot gas from the line on the driver's side, goes through the condenser, liquifies as it is cooled, then goes onto the evaperator on the other side of the firewall). As for taking it off- you "can" disconnect it, but refrigerant would go everywhere and make a mess unless you drain the system first, which takes a while and is pricey. SO... my answer is no, I wouldn't take the line off. First try to move the line. If worst comes to worst, you could always have a longer line made that would run in an arc over the header area.
 
they are BBK ceramics but if you noticed that there is a AODE in there thats why theres so many problems.they are nice looking headers, and they should fit the
T-5 alot better since a stick isnt as fat as an auto.
 
First of all- great lookin' headers!

As for the A/C line, unbolt the bracket and try to route it over the header. I know there isn't much slack, but there may be enough to raise it up 2 or 3 inches.

That's what I did. That line is fairly bendable. Just dont go too wild moving it up, and try to make sure when bending it that you dont end up putting all the pressure on one spot (so you avoid a kink and crack)

BTW, on my T5 the only fit issues I ran into were the AC issue and the EGR no longer could connect (because of the smog lines). It's good to see that you can shoe horn those into and auto too.
 
I put the BBK long tubes on mine over chrismas, have been driving with the header right up against the A/C line for a few weeks now, no problems so far. I have to say they were a @&$%^@*(( to install. I've pulled engines out of cars faster.
 
What I would do is take a arc clamp (or a.k.a. loom clamp) and raise the a/c line until it clears and screw it to the side of the engine compartment. Some aluminum tape should be applied to the tube before to help insulate the a/c line from all of the heat.
Scott
 
wouldnt deleting the egr give me bad gas mileage?


also couldnt i just make my own egr tube?

No, and yes, respectively. The computer uses the O2 sensors to calculate a/f ratios and they will compensate.

You can make your own tube if you have a bender for that thick of tubing and a flare tool. That would be the best way IMO. I am sure any good plumbing fitting store should have the right threads. I don't know the threads on the EGR but the threads on the header are M22 I believe. Do a search and you should find them, as I specifically posted them a few months ago.
Scott
 
heres some update pics
i Wrapped the starter just to be safe
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I moved the ac line up 2"
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I bent the brace some with heat and a press
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i have about 3/8" between the brace and the exhuast do you guys think i should increas the distance or should that be fine?
 

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Congrats on the A/C line. 3/8" is good clearance for parts that don't move. But you have to remember your engine rocks whenever it's revving. It might be close, but I'd make sure it doesnt hit.

On another note...what brace is that, where did you get it from, and does it help much?