All AFR/FTI/EDELBROCK guys in here NOW!!

#41
So heres what we're gonna do tomorrow. Check for vacuum and exhaust leaks. I atleast know its leaking some from the driver header collector, I can hear it. Then mess around with sensor wiring and make sure they are legit, and also test out a straight pipe between the maf and tb as I have 2 elbows making up that pipe now and I've seen those kind of set ups rob crazy power. Also bump up the timing a bit until it pings. After that we'll what happens and if we can feel a difference. After all that is done, then I'll look into mech. things. I'd just hate to tear it all apart to degree the cam and only pick up like 3rwhp.

Jeremy

Jeremy
 

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#42
Bimmertech and I found some issues tonight when we had it in the shop. Found out theres a vac leak around the #6 and #7 cylinder on the lower intake. Also fixed the exhaust leaks around the header collectors and found that one of the head caps fell out of the back of head so I had a big exhaust leak back there. I'll get a new cap and loctite it in tomorrow. Also found that timing wasn't still at 10, it was advanced to about 15. So I'll take care of the leak issues and adjust my fuel pressure a bit and hopefully that will get it back to a raped ape stage. But we'll see. Might still be something mechanical but lets hope not.

Jeremy
 
#44
Several of those things could have kept your number down a bit. :shrug:

If he was using the dizzy to advance spark and not the spark tables

You would still only have been at about 30 degrees of total advance if I'm figuring things right here.

AFR's like spark :D

Grady
 
#50
Yea, the tuner is a pretty good. I made it sound like he didn't know what he was doing and never told me anything. He was actually very helpful. He fixed up an exhaust leak on one of the primaries, installed my powersteering pulley on all the way, and gave me a new idler pulley. My pulley installer took a **** on me while putting it on and never got put on all the way so it kept kicking off belts and shreading them up. And the idler pulley was all old and warped so he gave me a new one. I also had somewhat of a tune already on the chip from when I was at the dyno and the oil pump shaft snapped and ruined my old motor. Well the tune ended up being off the charts lean, only made about a 1k rpm length pull, then did some mad scientist adjustments with the chip and the first real pull was the 261/293. He knows what hes doing.

Jeremy
 
#51
I didn't read all of the reply's, don't know if this was mentioned, but since the c&l uses the stock electonics, you could try to measure voltage to see if the maf is opperating correctly (.7-9v at idle I think). Might want to chk for exhaust leaks on the header flange??
 
#52
For those that were wondering. Ed wrote me back today. He was able to send me a word file of the cam card which was awesome. He just mentioned that I should check the maf to make sure its calibrating correctly and that its clean. And that I need to check the lengths and geometry of the pushrods and rr's. One thing he noted was that he suggests my base timing to be at 18 with a total of 35-36. Mine right now is only at 15 so I suppose we could bump it up a bit. What kind of gap do you guys thing I should set my plugs. There at 45 right now. A little too tight?

Jeremy
 
#53
DARK-5.0 said:
For those that were wondering. Ed wrote me back today. He was able to send me a word file of the cam card which was awesome. He just mentioned that I should check the maf to make sure its calibrating correctly and that its clean. And that I need to check the lengths and geometry of the pushrods and rr's. One thing he noted was that he suggests my base timing to be at 18 with a total of 35-36. Mine right now is only at 15 so I suppose we could bump it up a bit. What kind of gap do you guys thing I should set my plugs. There at 45 right now. A little too tight?

Jeremy
Click to expand...

Jeremy

Did your tuner ever give you the details of your spark setup. Without that, you're just spittin into the wind.

I just checked a stock t4m0 spark table for you and 25 is the total spark at max load.

anyway ... if you had no spark table changes (stock)
and
If you do in fact want 36 total spark you would need to crank your dizzy all the way to 21 degrees.

You really need to know what you now got for spark here.

Grady
 
#54
That is very true Grady. I think the plan for now is to fix this intake leak, go over everything and make sure its legit. Then put my adj. fpr on and down the pressure the bit to lean it a bit. Now that its running way rich. Then if it pulls all the way to 6k like it should, I'll go tune it again to finalize everything. If it doesn't. I'll use the cam card and degree the cam in.

Jeremy
 
#56
What is your last official rwhp number? I picked up about 13 rwhp by advancing the timing, so it's definitely worthwhile to get that dialed in. Mine was also very obvious about it -- you could look right at the graph and see the line go all wavy as it ran out of timing. Then we'd just advance a degree from that point on up, and pull again. Ended up with something like 37* at the top.
 
#57
Yeah, I'm def. gonna bump up the timing and also gap the plugs a little bigger. They're at 45 right now and I think most guys recommend 54 with these heads. Then I just need to turn the fuel down cause its running way right now with fixing those exhaust leaks.

Jeremy
 
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