I've got Scarebird disk brakes on my 66 with drums out back. I need to move to a new master cylinder as my current one is a dual for a 1967 with drums all around. I know that the 74 Maverick is what is recommended, but I'd like to move away from the heavy cast iron MC and to a modern aluminum MC with a plastic reservoir. I've heard of people running a 1993 Ranger master or one from a Cobra - 1995, I think. The Cobra is way too much - $150; and the Ranger's diameter is close, but not dead on. Anyone with manual disks running a modern aluminum MC? Thanks
If I remember correctly look at a 94-95 5.0 mustang. I think that is the one I used when I did my conversion.
I have an aluminum dual bowl master...I used one from an '84 t-bird....some of these are aluminum and some are cast iron...remanned it was $25 at autozone...however the ports are on the engine side so it would require new lines...but mine is still the old style without the plastic resevoir(I hate how cheap they look) p.s. 7/8" bore so its great for manual brakes
I have Wilwood 4 wheel discs on my '66 and run the Ford D9AZ-2140-A master cylinder. It is all aluminum (no plastic) so it looks good in the engine compartment, has a 1" bore, and is much lighter than the big cast iron ones.
Just for the record, I found data that a MC from a 1993 Dodge Spirit would work- it doesn't work. Just going with the old heavy 74 Maverick. Posted via Mobile Device
Sorry for the late reply, my setup is PDB and I just noticed that yours is manual. Mine works fine, but not really sure how it would work in a MDB setup.
I'm in the same boat, except I Have power discs as well. I currently have the SN95 master on there, but it has a rock hard pedal feel.. It's 1 1/16 I believe, wondering if I should step it down to a 15/16 or so?
Agreed. So I wonder why my 1 1/16 is far too stiff with a power booster. And if stepping down to a 15/16 will make my pedal hit the floor.
It should make your pedal effort easier but if you are having stiffness issues with the current setup, I would see if you have an issue with your booster as it is. Is the pedal just as stiff without the boosters assistance as it is with assistance ?
Pedal does sink a bit when the car is started. As well it seems to hold pressure (it's a brand new remanned). However, what I found odd, is while driving on some gravel (Car isn't road worthy yet) I was testing the brakes. If I hammered on this brick of a pedal, the fronts locked, but the rears wouldn't, even with the adjust. prop valve all the way to the rear, but they bled fine, so I"m stumped.
Do you have drums in the rear ? Is there a residual pressure valve in the drum circuit ? Is it put in the proper direction ?
Nah, SN95 discs in the rear, stock 68's up front. SN95 master, plumbed correctly (front to rear, etc), going into a simple Tee for the fronts. Rears go directly from the M/C to the prop valve. As I said, I'm stumped. Vacuum is good.
Now that we have completely hijacked the thread.... What power booster are you using ? ....... Actually, make another thread for this... it should really be on its own.
Yeeeeeah, I apologize for that. But it's still helpful to the OP. Remanned Bendix. I was alternating between 10 and 15" vacuum.
No worries I,m all set with a vast iron boat anchor of a MC. You may need a residual pressure valve in the rear circuit to keep enough fluid back there to get those rear discs to work. What pedal are you using? Posted via Mobile Device
Never heard of anyone using a residual valve on rear discs, unless they are higher than the M/C or some such.. Using the correct power pedal. I guess all I can do is change the M/C and see what kind of difference it makes. Or test the pressure at each caliper, but I really don't feel like buying another tool. haha Don't suppose there is an online calculator, or anyone knows the equation of piston bore to m/c bore to pedal travel?
ill chime in with my 98 explorer m/c im running brakes from a 73 on both ends, pedal feel is firm but not bad, but im not sure i would like it if the car was an automatic. the only problems i remember were finding adapters to the metric bungs
