Ford told me it was a self bleed system at first, now they say I have to bring it in & they have to use a vacuum? Anybody have any good ideas? This clutch has to be bled every 1000 miles for some reason.
That doesn't seem right? Did you have the system open when you swapped the clutch? It sounds like air is entering, slowly - maybe a nicked or loose fitting? sorry I have no idea about the bleeding process for the clutch.
The garage told me that some of the cars needed the master cylinders replaced due to them sharing a space with the clutch master. I had a problem with mine also right before I parked her for winter he said if it happened again he would just replace the whole unit.
Jack up driver's side 10'' or so and pump the pedal very slowly. Sounds like you have a slave cylinder drawing air in, but not leaking externally. Very common. Tell the dealer to pull the tranny and replace the slave/bearing combo.
from the shop manual SECTION 308-00: Manual Transaxle/Transmission and Clutch — General Information Vacuum Pump Kit 416-D002 (D95L-7559-A) or equivalent Make sure all hydraulic lines are correctly seated. Make sure all bleed screws are tightened to specification. Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb-in). Make sure the clutch pedal is in the most upward position. Check the fluid level of the brake/clutch reservoir. Fill the reservoir with the specified fluid to the MAX mark. Using a suitable bleeder kit and a vacuum pump, install the rubber stopper in the reservoir opening. Make sure the rubber stopper has a tight fit. Alternate method: use a 50 mm (1.96 in) rubber stopper with an 8 mm (0.31 in) pipe inserted through the rubber stopper. Holding the rubber stopper in place, operate the vacuum pump to 15-20 inches of vacuum. Hold the vacuum for one minute, then quickly relieve the vacuum. Remove the special tools. Check the fluid level of the reservoir. Fill the reservoir with the specified fluid to the MAX mark. Install the reservoir cap. Depress and release the clutch pedal 10 to 12 times or until clutch pedal effort is consistent and positive at top of clutch pedal travel. Repeat Steps 4 through 6 two additional times or until clutch pedal effort is consistent and positive at top of clutch pedal travel. Install the reservoir cap. Check the clutch pedal reserve. Test the clutch system for normal operation
I've got that shop manual too. That's the quick easy way if you have the proper tools like a Mighty-Vac which most people do not have. Good info though.
