I'm hoping I can reuse my top end and either replace or rebuild my bottom end. Once I pull the valve cover and drain the oil I hope to know more.
Fox Bad Engine Knock
- Thread starter Tim83
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Yeah, that would be me.A great suggestion sir, but:
+
= pass.
Wasn't that you that went on a rant with me a while back about the stupidity of using flat tappet cams after our motor oil got hosed by the gubment and the zinc is removed, which leads to quick and certain death of all flat bumpsticks???
I didn't see the cam, I just assumed that it was a roller block based on the indicated year of the engine.
So I'm trying to take the upper intake off the car today so I can pull the valve cover off and I cannot get this nut off. It's a 3/8 12 point nut but I can't get a socket or a midget wrench on it because there isn't enough space. The front of the intake had a similar nut but since there was a little more space I could get the wrench on there and loosen it. Has anyone every removed one of these intakes before?
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
It's 3/8. I got the one in front with a 3/8 12 point midget wrench but I can't get it on the back. None of the sockets I have are thin enough. I ran to Lowes but they didnt have much either. I'm going to try a few other stores tomorrow. This is the only thing preventing me from getting the upper off.
After I used a grinder to trim down my box wrench I was able to get that last nut off and pull the upper intake. When I removed the valve cover I found that the stud that holds one of the rocker arms for cylinder #6 had sheared off so the rocker arm was smacking on the inside of the valve cover. My question now is, where do I go from here? Does the head need to come off for this to be repaired? Could this have caused a problem with the bottom end as well?
Have you drained your oil to see if there is anything other than oil in there? How does the push rod look?
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Bottom end should be fine, check the oil.After I used a grinder to trim down my box wrench I was able to get that last nut off and pull the upper intake. When I removed the valve cover I found that the stud that holds one of the rocker arms for cylinder #6 had sheared off so the rocker arm was smacking on the inside of the valve cover. My question now is, where do I go from here? Does the head need to come off for this to be repaired? Could this have caused a problem with the bottom end as well?
You can replace the stud with heads on the car. I would buy all new ARP studs when you do it. check the oil for metal, then with fresh oil change, fire it up and see if the sound is gone.
Is that particular valve closed all the way, or is the spring still compressed on it? I would be a little concerned as to what caused it (piston to valve contact).
Joe
Is that particular valve closed all the way, or is the spring still compressed on it? I would be a little concerned as to what caused it (piston to valve contact).
Joe
That valve might be bent. If it is there was piston to valve contact.
Maybe you can tell just by looking at it, maybe not. If you can't verify being bent by looking at it, I would remove the intake rocker to be sure that valve is closed. Then, screw an air compressor adapter into the spark plug hole and fire compressed air into the cylinder. If the valve is bent, it should be obvious as the air will blow right through into the exhaust.
If the valve is still good, the air pressure will hold, although you will always hear slight leakage past the piston rings.
Maybe you can tell just by looking at it, maybe not. If you can't verify being bent by looking at it, I would remove the intake rocker to be sure that valve is closed. Then, screw an air compressor adapter into the spark plug hole and fire compressed air into the cylinder. If the valve is bent, it should be obvious as the air will blow right through into the exhaust.
If the valve is still good, the air pressure will hold, although you will always hear slight leakage past the piston rings.
