Fox Bad Engine Knock
- Thread starter Tim83
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Ok the first video here is with # 6 connected
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z3Rs-IoH9Yc
Second video is with it disconnected
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=svJCIE9FfpU
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z3Rs-IoH9Yc
Second video is with it disconnected
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=svJCIE9FfpU
- Dec 19, 2010
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I'll bet you stretched the rod bolts on # 6 cyl and it's just about to let go. Don't run that engine anymore. Tear it down.
Hopefully you can do the work yourself. Mustangs are classic cars now so it gets to be a bigger money pit when you outsource work. We can help you through the rebuild process. You came to the right place for help.
Hopefully you can do the work yourself. Mustangs are classic cars now so it gets to be a bigger money pit when you outsource work. We can help you through the rebuild process. You came to the right place for help.
It's crazy because our cars are way less sophisticated then newer cars. Yet dip
s want more money to work on them. Sucks
I know of a guy who may have a built up 302 stashed in his garage....
(It's the guy with a surfboard in his avatar pic..)
lol
(It's the guy with a surfboard in his avatar pic..)
lol
I appreciate everyone's time and input thus far. I took the day off work today to put together a plan of how to deal with this. Before I pose additional questions let me give you some additional background on the car itself and my goals. Sadly, I've only owned it since the end of August. A previous owner built it as a street/track car so the top end is not stock. It has aluminum heads, cam, upper/lower intake. The bottom end might be stock, but I noticed the block is painted red and I don't think they came from the factory that way so it's anyone's guess. It has no AC/heat or smog pump attached either. I didn't have a chance to have it dyno tested so I don't know what type of power it was making before but if I rebuild the motor (or have it rebuilt) I'd like to aim for 300-350 HP at the wheels. Is that doable given the pieces I have to work with?
I consider myself very capable but I've got no experience with this type of project but let's assume I have all the necessary tools and can follow the various guides I've seen to disconnect everything and get the engine out of the car. I would still need to send parts out for machining correct? If I get the engine apart and find the #6 rod bolts have stretched (as Boosted92LX suggested) will I need a bottom end rebuild kit? Is it possible for someone with my level of knowledge to rebuild it or would it make more sense to send it out and have it rebuilt and balanced so I can reassemble it?
I consider myself very capable but I've got no experience with this type of project but let's assume I have all the necessary tools and can follow the various guides I've seen to disconnect everything and get the engine out of the car. I would still need to send parts out for machining correct? If I get the engine apart and find the #6 rod bolts have stretched (as Boosted92LX suggested) will I need a bottom end rebuild kit? Is it possible for someone with my level of knowledge to rebuild it or would it make more sense to send it out and have it rebuilt and balanced so I can reassemble it?
Be sure to pull the valve cover off before pulling the engine. A loose rocker (I mean barely on) can make a similar knock sound.
Also if you have to ask if your capable of doing the work....everyone is capable, but that doesn't mean you should. Pull the valve cover, inspect. If not a rocker proceed with the plan to pull it and then inspect again. Only then will you be able to see what needs to be done. Whether its buy a rebuild kit and or machine...or etc, you wont know until you get in there. Good luck
Also if you have to ask if your capable of doing the work....everyone is capable, but that doesn't mean you should. Pull the valve cover, inspect. If not a rocker proceed with the plan to pull it and then inspect again. Only then will you be able to see what needs to be done. Whether its buy a rebuild kit and or machine...or etc, you wont know until you get in there. Good luck
- Dec 19, 2010
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I agree with pulling the valve cover first. Pull the rockers after inspection and check the pushrods to see if they're bent. IF It's not in the valve train.. and it is a rod, by this point you most likely will have a damaged crankshaft and one junk connecting rod. The crank may or may not be able to be turned and re-used.. I don't think I'd chance getting that rod resized to use again. This would be a good time to consider a stroker kit if your budget allows it and you are wanting more hp.
Moosee1955
Active Member
- Sep 30, 2016
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In the words of Henry Ford, whether you think you can, or think you can't, your right! If you have basic common sense, patience, and a mechanical aptitude, theirs no reason why you can't tear down, and reassemble a small block Ford. Compared to the newer twin cam 4.6/5.4 engines, their easy. You will have to learn simple things, like reading a micrometer, installing piston rings properly, learning how to torque cylinder heads, and a few other things. You might want to get a few books, either paper, or online, on how to rebuild Ford 302/5.0 liter motors. You will need a clean work area, quality tools, and patience. You've got over 10 quality teachers on this Forum, that rival or surpass most Ford factory techs. Remember these engines are what they specialize, so they've seen it all. Keep us posted.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I'm thinkin' this is a far better solution....heads are there, pans there, timing cover's there.......
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fme-302f8791/overview/make/ford
it's warranted, and it ships free......Easy, Peasy, Lemon Squeezy
That'd be alright and LMR has great customer service and stand behind there products. Don't get ahead of yourself though, you need to see to what extent the damage is with what you have. Draining the oil as suggested by @RangerJoe is the quickest easiest answer to "just how f*k'd am I?"
Yes, however his current engine has some aftermarket goodies like aluminum heads that might be way better than the heads on that long block. I guess the best thing to is first figure out what went wrong, find out what is the good re-usable stuff remaining and explore options from that point.
- Dec 19, 2010
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A great suggestion sir, but:
+
= pass.
Wasn't that you that went on a rant with me a while back about the stupidity of using flat tappet cams after our motor oil got hosed by the gubment and the zinc is removed, which leads to quick and certain death of all flat bumpsticks???
