best way for 12s?

bobwb

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Dec 11, 2009
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for my all stock 86gt, aod, 327s, 160,000 wifes car , now its mine, i want low 12s, no 13s, gonna have a local speed shop do everything, like to get your guys advice 1st, to campare theirs, thanks.
 
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What's your budget and plans for the car?
You want a drag suspension? Do you care how it handles?
How are you going to drive it? Daily?

There is many ways to get in the 12's but you need to know which method suits you best.
 
owned the car since new, thought about selling it, drove a few new 2011 5.0s, thought they were really fast till i drove a 2007 supercharged mustang, but i just still like my 86 body style better, the 07gt turns 11.78 at 114 mph, thats what i want out of my 86gt, but the 07 is like 20 grand, so i talked the wife into moding mne up, do you think 15 grand might do it? as for the supension ill never take it to the track, street car only, as for driving it ,only on dry days, would like low 12s.
 
owned the car since new, thought about selling it, drove a few new 2011 5.0s, thought they were really fast till i drove a 2007 supercharged mustang, but i just still like my 86 body style better, the 07gt turns 11.78 at 114 mph, thats what i want out of my 86gt, but the 07 is like 20 grand, so i talked the wife into moding mne up, do you think 15 grand might do it? as for the supension ill never take it to the track, street car only, as for driving it ,only on dry days, would like low 12s.

15 grand will more than do it.

You sound like you are in it for the long haul, so instead of building on top of an 86 shorblock which probably has flat top pistons, you may want to start with a built shortblock.
Me personally i see no sense in anything other than a 347.
Then add some AFR or CNC twisted wedges, edelbrock victor efi intake, 75mm TB and spacer. Convert the car to mass air and a custom cam and 30lb injector and you'll be flying.
Certainly faster than the 07 you speak of. While 11.78 is pretty quick, 114 by todays standards isn't all that impressive for a car with a supercharger.
I've seen good 347 cars run high 10's@124mph.

Play your cards right and you should have 5-7 grand left to put into the suspension, brakes and drivetrain so you don't kill yourself.

That's just one way, you could always drop in an explorer engine, add a vortech supercharger and go.

There is really alot of ways to make it happen. Sounds like you are paying for the work to be done, so you may not want to get too custom because labor may kill you.

Me personally had i have to pay for the work, the 347 route i mentioned above would be my method of choice.
Obviously that's not the way i presently went, but i have alot of resources.
 
For 15 grand buy a car already built that goes low 9's. Got mine for 10 with a brand new motor and it ran a 10.50 on motor right off the trailer. Building cars is expensive man, you can find some good deal on cars with a lot of good parts way cheaper than you could recreate....especially if you are paying a shop
 
If you really want any hope of making that any faster than a 14 second car, at very minimum the whole top end of the motor has to go. Like 2000xp8 said, a stroker wouldn't be a bad idea, and with that direction, you could very VERY easily do it without boost or spray. You can actually very easily do 12s with a H/C/I 302, but that AOD is going to slow you down.

Of course, gobs of boost on the stock motor would probably get you into the 12s, too.

The problem with those '86 engines is that... They're slow. The heads suck.
 
Want low 12's but will never go to the track? Not sure I understand that one fully but I'd say you could make the car a lot funner to drive on the street without basing it on a 1/4 mile time goal or an enormous $15k budget. Why not spend some cash on upgrading the rear gears, stiffen the chassis with subframe connectors, upgraded rear lower control arms, exhaust, and a HCI package which could all be done even with new parts for probably under $4k? I'd be willing to bet that would be a seriously fun car to drive on the street.
 
Want low 12's but will never go to the track? Not sure I understand that one fully but I'd say you could make the car a lot funner to drive on the street without basing it on a 1/4 mile time goal or an enormous $15k budget. Why not spend some cash on upgrading the rear gears, stiffen the chassis with subframe connectors, upgraded rear lower control arms, exhaust, and a HCI package which could all be done even with new parts for probably under $4k? I'd be willing to bet that would be a seriously fun car to drive on the street.

thats my idea here. if i had that kinda cash to blow id get a maximum road and track box, a trick flow top end kit, and the m3200 (or whatever it is) ford racing cobra brake 5 lug swap kit, then whatever else you want. thats a fun car. thats 3 kits that cost 2-2.5 thousand each, and are complete kits. chassis, done, brakes, done, motor, done. then save the rest for a trans when it goes, your gonna need like rear gears, and some other odds and ends like a mass air, ect. then whatevers left spend it on hookers and blow. :flag:
 
160,000 miles and flat top pistons IMO isn't the place to start building an engine from.

Normally i would have just said to use the TFS kit for simplicity, but i'm not sure what the clearances are going to be if you add a cam.
I'm pretty sure you can get away with Twisted wedges but the cam i don't know.
 
For 15 grand buy a car already built that goes low 9's. Got mine for 10 with a brand new motor and it ran a 10.50 on motor right off the trailer. Building cars is expensive man, you can find some good deal on cars with a lot of good parts way cheaper than you could recreate....especially if you are paying a shop

I'm with TJ on this. I am in the middle of an engine build and I have dumped a lot into it already. Unless you have a real drive to wrench it together yourself (not to mention the space and tools) you are better off buying a car that has been worked over already.
 
Guessing seeing as you have had the car since new, selling it and getting a already built one which a lot of times is someone elses nightmare anyways is not a option. If I were you I'd find a deal on a aftermarket block shortblock that is fresh or new, probably a compression 347. With the right parts, a fairly mild 347 will go 10's on motor. That will put you roughly $7500 in the hole if you find a deal. Front and rear suspension will be $2000. Fuel system, $1500, build your tranny get a cooler, shifter and a good converter, $2500, built rear end, $1000. Thats over $14k and that doesnt include the cooling system which will depend a lot, tuning or every other thing that adds up. If you want to just go low 12's or high 11's figure more around $9,000.

Also are you putting a carb on it or no?
 
hey sharad i might go your way, how much would you estamite all this would cost me? including the reman shortblock. by my s;peed shop? not looking for big hp just want to dust the new cars out there now, low 12s seems like most are turning.
 
hey sharad i might go your way, how much would you estamite all this would cost me? including the reman shortblock. by my s;peed shop? not looking for big hp just want to dust the new cars out there now, low 12s seems like most are turning.

50resto has forged piston shortblocks for $1400. Nothing exotic, and you might be able to get it done a little cheaper, but it is a pretty simple way to get going.
 
50resto has forged piston shortblocks for $1400. Nothing exotic, and you might be able to get it done a little cheaper, but it is a pretty simple way to get going.

Man, I just feel like I would not spend that kind of money only to end up with stock displacement. I was able to freshen up my stock bottom end for ~$500, BUT, it was a sub 100K mile engine with minimal bore wear, so I was able to reuse stock pistons. If I was looking at $1400 for a new bottom end, I would DEFINITELY spend the extra $400-600 and have a stock block 347.
 
Man, I just feel like I would not spend that kind of money only to end up with stock displacement. I was able to freshen up my stock bottom end for ~$500, BUT, it was a sub 100K mile engine with minimal bore wear, so I was able to reuse stock pistons. If I was looking at $1400 for a new bottom end, I would DEFINITELY spend the extra $400-600 and have a stock block 347.

That's what I ended up doing. :p
 
Damn, everyone acts like 12's are so far away. I've seen foxes in the 12's with not too steep of a list of mods. It's going to be rough with that AOD in there. Either go to a manual or you need a real transmission with a good converter. A 150 shot and slicks will get you there if it has a 87+ engine in it. Want to do it without that? Can be done also and not too hard to do. You want to keep it full weight? That makes it a bit harder. A good HCI combo (well matched) should get you there if not close, traction depending but I don't know with that AOD. My car has the AOD in it right now, I just don't have time with two jobs to put my TKO in it. Anyways, it's like driving with the brakes on.
 
Damn, everyone acts like 12's are so far away. I've seen foxes in the 12's with not too steep of a list of mods. It's going to be rough with that AOD in there. Either go to a manual or you need a real transmission with a good converter. A 150 shot and slicks will get you there if it has a 87+ engine in it. Want to do it without that? Can be done also and not too hard to do. You want to keep it full weight? That makes it a bit harder. A good HCI combo (well matched) should get you there if not close, traction depending but I don't know with that AOD. My car has the AOD in it right now, I just don't have time with two jobs to put my TKO in it. Anyways, it's like driving with the brakes on.

Oh yea, 12s are easy if your starting point is a '87+ engine with a T5 behind it. This car, though, is an E6 headed, AOD car- you're hard pressed to start with anything slower than that, haha.