Body Flex...ouch

Skoobie

Damn...Tyler65's hot!
May 25, 2003
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17
Vancouver, WA
Well I dont know if this is recent or it happened a long time ago and I never noticed. During my move I was packing a few extra boxes into the stang for transport and I noticed my hatch was sitting higher on the driver side of the car. At closer visual inspection not only was it not sitting the same height on both sides is was shifted over to the driver side almost a half inch. The car has never been in an accident but it does not have SFC either. I was checking out the pillars on the hatch and there are small stress fractures in the paint as well. Looks like the torque is finally catching up to my car :( My question is; is it too late for subs? Will they just stop the flex of the body and I have to live with the already torqued frame or can it be streached back out and then have the subs welded in? Cost on such a procedure? Those with experience with this please chime in, thanks!
 
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This is flex with subframe connectors welded on.....:nice:
 

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I got the same problem skoob, I noticed the other day walking up to the garage that my front drivers side is alittle higher then the passenger side. My car has Sub Frame's on it too. I would diffently advise getting some SFC in soon. I got mine from Chung at Blue Oval in Vancouver. I bought the full length steeda ones.:nice:
 
Black 93 Fox said:
I got the same problem skoob, I noticed the other day walking up to the garage that my front drivers side is alittle higher then the passenger side. My car has Sub Frame's on it too. I would diffently advise getting some SFC in soon. I got mine from Chung at Blue Oval in Vancouver. I bought the full length steeda ones.:nice:


Yeah i talked to Chung yesterday. He want $300 for full length (welded in) but that for MM subs. I need to save up some cash first, good thing I never get a chance to drive my car anymore :notnice:
 
Skoobie said:
Well I dont know if this is recent or it happened a long time ago and I never noticed. During my move I was packing a few extra boxes into the stang for transport and I noticed my hatch was sitting higher on the driver side of the car. At closer visual inspection not only was it not sitting the same height on both sides is was shifted over to the driver side almost a half inch. The car has never been in an accident but it does not have SFC either. I was checking out the pillars on the hatch and there are small stress fractures in the paint as well. Looks like the torque is finally catching up to my car :( My question is; is it too late for subs? Will they just stop the flex of the body and I have to live with the already torqued frame or can it be streached back out and then have the subs welded in? Cost on such a procedure? Those with experience with this please chime in, thanks!

if you have the cash, get the body aligned on a chassis bender thingy (forgot the name lol)... Then OVER A PIT on the vehicle's weight install some good subframes, then reinforce the torque boxes.
 
I just remember mine are MM not steeda. You might check around like an exhaust shop they might weld them in for cheaper. You'll be ok driving it just as long as you dont rail on it which I know is hard. :D

Skoobie said:
Yeah i talked to Chung yesterday. He want $300 for full length (welded in) but that for MM subs. I need to save up some cash first, good thing I never get a chance to drive my car anymore :notnice:
 
mine only cost $50 to weld in and the subframes themselves were like $80-100 or so.

And BTW on the timing thing there, "skoob," you were right. I had been setting the timing correctly before, but my advancing age and chemical dependency has ruined my memory so I had it backwards this time.
 
I am currently welding in a 6 point roll cage to reduce the flex even more. The final fix could be a rear roll bar.....but back to the original question I have trick springs in the rear which makes my car sit higher on the passenger side than the drivers side and maybe thats why your car doesn't sit level from side to side (previous owner installed trick springs?) or the drivers side spring is weaker than the pass side.
 
nickel said:
mine only cost $50 to weld in and the subframes themselves were like $80-100 or so.

And BTW on the timing thing there, "skoob," you were right. I had been setting the timing correctly before, but my advancing age and chemical dependency has ruined my memory so I had it backwards this time.

When did you become a founding member you butthole!?!?! :mad: Ive got three times your posts...it isnt fair :fuss:
 
thehueypilot said:
I am currently welding in a 6 point roll cage to reduce the flex even more. The final fix could be a rear roll bar.....but back to the original question I have trick springs in the rear which makes my car sit higher on the passenger side than the drivers side and maybe thats why your car doesn't sit level from side to side (previous owner installed trick springs?) or the drivers side spring is weaker than the pass side.

I installed Eibach Sportlines a few years ago but I dont seem to remember the trunk being a problem. I NEVER open then trunk though and I dont drive the car much so maybe I just missed it...or it happened slowly over time. I just really need to have the frame inspected to see if its acually bent or not.