My bad... I guess all those NHRA, NASCAR, Formula One, and every other sanctioned racing bodies are WORTHLESS because they ALL use engine dynos.mattmcdan said:
Buying Heads
- Thread starter Strype
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
mattmcdan
Member
mattmcdan said:
That really doesnt matter if you think about it. If all the heads poop listed were tested on the same block, with all conditions being the same, then showing an increase from 1 head to the next should be considered accurate. Im not talking about real street accuracy, but the ability to show what heads perform better when used under the same conditions.
Just trying to not let you get confused Strype
And a side note, the TFTW heads were run in group two with right around the same HP as the 165s.PoopDawg said:
Its funny but when he mentioned wanting 1.7RR's i brought an old copy of MMFF to work because i knew id be bored today... they did a rocker test in there where they tested 1.6 & 1.7 RR's, and found that the only major increase in power was when they put 1.6 rockers on the intake and 1.7's on the exhaust. Kinda wierd.
What if I used the stock cam... and did everything at home myself ??? 
I read that too
FarBeyondDriven said:
I read that too
Oh, and by the way, i have a bunch of extra junk if you need it Strype. I have alot of the stuff that came with my heads when i was still going with EFI, but since i switched to carb, i have no need for. I have those bolt reducers (the track heat heads are made with 1/2" head bolt holes) that make them 7/16 for your block. im pretty sure they come with it, but if not, i have some extra junk ill give you.
ryan218
In just 10 years, I'll be old enough to drive!!!!
Strype said:Sweet I'll let ya know dude
What ya think about Stock cam
I can't do a cam swap myself
I couldnt either, i just had a buddy come and help me. you will still have to mess with the cam (just not remove it) when you get the new RR's, and you have to adjust them. I got mine from scorpion, and called them about installing them. they gave me pretty damn good instructions on how to do it. If youre going with a stock cam (to save time and money, which is completely understandable) you can always upgrade it later, but i would try to do it now since the car will be apart anyways. it might cost you a couple more bucks, but i would do it all at once if it were me.. just wait it out a little and save up for someone to do your cam for you
im not sure how the lift and everything on the 1.7's would be on a stock cam. hell, you should call trickflow and just flat out ask them.. thats what i did before i bought all my junk.http://www.trickflow.com/
ryan218
In just 10 years, I'll be old enough to drive!!!!
also. sorry to hi jack.
me and my dad were looking at this engine for the 76 cobra. how much should we offer him
I am selling a 5.0L shortblock, actually a B50 sportsman block, 327 cuin stroker, low compression for Twisted wedge heads. I made 525rwhp with it and an S-Trim. Let me know, I live in Grove City. Thanks, Mike
me and my dad were looking at this engine for the 76 cobra. how much should we offer him
I am selling a 5.0L shortblock, actually a B50 sportsman block, 327 cuin stroker, low compression for Twisted wedge heads. I made 525rwhp with it and an S-Trim. Let me know, I live in Grove City. Thanks, Mike
DMAN302
My mom says thanks for the pearl necklace.
Strype I'd look at the Eddy heads...simular in price to the GT40's and a bit better flow, stock cam on the street is an excellent choice with the 1.7's. For all out power you could go TFS or even save for later and a custom pc. As for the BBK...um lots a cash for same power you could have with a nice RPM intake for less money! My dyno session on saturday says the Eddy heads and the Typhoon intake make a decent couple as well 
Strype... When I do heads on my car (only doing them when the head gaskets fail), I'm keeping the stock cam. My main reason is driveablility. And the stock cam will make good power.
DMAN302 said:Strype I'd look at the Eddy heads...simular in price to the GT40's and a bit better flow, stock cam on the street is an excellent choice with the 1.7's. For all out power you could go TFS or even save for later and a custom pc. As for the BBK...um lots a cash for same power you could have with a nice RPM intake for less money! My dyno session on saturday says the Eddy heads and the Typhoon intake make a decent couple as well
Thanks D double O G I'll check those out too
PoopDawg said:
So what does farbeyond mean when he says you have to mess with the cam... anyone got a tech article on how to do this myself. I'm calling now and trying to find out labor. See my clutch is out, the dam thing's overheating... all this when I finally get the $$$
the stock cam is good... however i wanted that choppy (what the hell does he have under the hood) sound. but i built the motor based around the 10:1 TFS pistons, trackheat heads, and stage II cam. i figured if im going to pull it apart, i want it to be mean when i start driving it again. Then again, im the most anti-sleeper person youll ever meet. i want a car that will look and sound like it will eat other cars.
Strype said:So what does farbeyond mean when he says you have to mess with the cam... anyone got a tech article on how to do this myself. I'm calling now and trying to find out labor. See my clutch is out, the dam thing's overheating... all this when I finally get the $$$
what i meant was, regardless of if you swap the cam out or not, youll end up having to mess with it. when you get your new rockers, (if you get the ones like mine) you have to adjust them at the base circle of the cam, so you will have to rotate the motor, find the base circle of the cam, and that will help you become more familliar with it. i was just saying that since you will be watching your valves to know when you are on the base circle of the cam, you wouldnt be but a few bolts away from just taking the stock one out and swapping it. if youre using the stock lifters and pushrods, MAKE SURE you label them somehow or whatever you do, just make sure they go in EXACTLY the way they came out. they will have spots worn already and you dont want to mix them up. damnit dude, i wish i was closer, i would come help you do this. i know exactly how you feel right now.
FarBeyondDriven said:
That'd be cool- but I have good news fo meself
I called and for H/C/I change labor is only $675
I'll let the good folks at the shop do it
So...
$500 Intake
$1000 Heads
$200 Cam
$700 Labor
$2400
I'll put this up in tech since it's heading that way
Curse
Member
TFS TW heads get my vote. The stage 1 cam is nice, has a good idle and pulls to 6k rpm with easy.
Similar threads
Forced Induction
On3 turbo on stock 89 with 87K miles --suggestions
