I put on a CAI on my 94 gt and now the check engine light comes on when a cruise at like 50/55mph at like 2500rpm. I checked it over and over for vacum leaks, none. I don't think I'm able to clock the MAF b/c of the shape of the flange, which i think allows it to be in only one position. I went to autozone to have the codes pulled; the reader said that there was no definition available (and we didn't try using the OBDII under the dash, it was the EEC Test.) I've tried it with and without the screen; no difference. I'm on my last straw, I don't want to have to bring it to ford and be ripped off. Isn't there someone here who can help me????
CHECK ENGINE LIGHT, You help fix = You are God
- Thread starter h0oligan
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
Are you absolutely certain that 1) you plugged everything back in that you disconnected, and 2) that you're maf plug is making good electrical contact with the maf?
PNY PWR
New Member
PNY PWR
New Member
ponycar17
Founding Member
Well, cold air kits are going to cause MAF reading problems. They seem to put the majority of the air 90 degrees away from where the MAF sensor should be. With mine, I had habitual problems with the car shutting off at idle after surging like crazy because the MAF wasn't given the reading that it should have seen. This all went away when I bought my Pro-M MAF Tuner. I can adjust the idle voltage as well as the low-mid, high-mid, and high range voltages. And all of them are infinitely adjustable with a laptop. I would recommend a Pro-M optimizer if you dont want to go the expensive route with the MAF Tuner. Your problem is likely that your MAF is reading a voltage that is lower than expected... The optimizer or MAF Tuner should help...
Or, you could order a Pro-M meter that's tune for cold air... Those will compensate electrically for the air being detected at a lower voltage...
Or, you could order a Pro-M meter that's tune for cold air... Those will compensate electrically for the air being detected at a lower voltage...
ponycar17
Founding Member
h0oligan said:
This is what I have... It's a MAF Tuner system. Cool stuff...
http://pro-flow.com/Product pages/MAFtuner.htm
I had to buy it directly from Pro-Flow because it was too new for other vendors to carry. If you have a meter that's calibrated for a certain injector set, you can calibrate that meter for any injector size with this meter and software. It's nice, because I had a 30# meter for 30# injectors and I went to 24# injectors. The software set the MAF Tuner to the correct settings so that I could run the 24s no problem...
The optimizer can also be purchased from Pro-Flow directly...
http://pro-flow.com/Product pages/remote_optimizer.htm
In my opinion, the optimizer needs some sort of O2 sensor feedback so you know what affect your changes are actually having on the A/F ratio. But still, you can adjust idle air easily with the optimizer, so it will probably help your problem if it's related to the cold air kit.
Good luck!
Alright, so this is basically to adjust the engine manually like if it was carburated? You said that you think that it would probably need some kind of O2 sensor to really figure out what my A/F ratio looks like, how would i go about doing that? Is there a way to pull codes for that? If so, i would like to do that now.
Similar threads
