- Apr 9, 2002
- 1,635
- 18
- 59
Thinking of buying a King cobra clutch. Saw this on ebay...it looks like a good deal!...anybody heard of this company or bought this item? The positive feedback look good.
Clutch.
- Thread starter MUSTANGJOE
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
- Apr 9, 2002
- 1,635
- 18
- 59
MUSTANGJOE said:
forgot to put the link.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...3730&item=2468866804&ssPageName=STRK:MEBWA:IT
93 teal terror
Founding Member
stangbear427
Active Member
That's a good price for it, if it's what you want. Valeo makes the King Cobra for Ford Racing, it's just a rebox part. I had one, had very bad luck with it. Not a great design. And, after you pay the $20 shipping, you're up to $175 which is about the same price as the aforementioned SPEC stage I, which has a better pedal height and feel, and is rated for 100 more HP at the wheels. I don't know why anyone still buys King Cobra's when a far superior SPEC is available for relatively the same price, but some folks like them and just keep getting them. Just my $.02MUSTANGJOE said:forgot to put the link.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...3730&item=2468866804&ssPageName=STRK:MEBWA:IT
- Apr 9, 2002
- 1,635
- 18
- 59
88gt
Founding Member
Go with a SPEC or Centerforce...better pedal feel and grip. I HAD a KC and didn't like the brute force it took to depress the pedal. With the KC clutch I found other weak parts (cable & quadrant). Forced me to go to Steeda.
Keep researching...you'll find the right one.
Jim
Keep researching...you'll find the right one.
Jim
stangbear427
Active Member
No. It isn't that good of a price. I paid $250 for mine about six years ago, but I've seen them for about $175 since. I still say though, for that money you may as well get a great clutch like a SPEC, not just an (arguably) good clutch like the King Cobra. Like 88GT said, unless you want to start having linkage problems because you just love a clutch that grabs right off the floor (why?), look elsewhere. Some people swear by them and haven't had any trouble and you may not either, but many have and you may too. Not recommended at any price.MUSTANGJOE said:
- Apr 9, 2002
- 1,635
- 18
- 59
Were can I get a spec stage 1 for $175?
I was gonna get an after marcket quadrant and firewall adjuster with witch ever clutch I get.
I was gonna get an after marcket quadrant and firewall adjuster with witch ever clutch I get.
stangbear427
Active Member
I got mine directly from SPEC. However, lots of guys in here have gotten thiers from Perky, and couldn't say enough good things about him. Don't know what his price is, but I'm under the impression he gives a pretty good deal.
Specs aren't all that. I've had my frpp clutch for years now, it has been fine, but I don't push a lot of power through it.
I have found specs quality control to be less than optimal. Specs also have a MAJOR chattering problem. Often it goes away, but all too often, it does not, like what happened with my brother. Not only that, but his went south after 5100k miles. that could have been due to several different reasons, one being a bad adjustment on our behalf, but based on the two different specs we have used, the chattering problem alone is bull**** enough to make me not want one. His chatter never went away.
They grab like an on/off switch, but after they break in, it won't grab quite the same. People around the net treat them like they are the last word in clutches. Do your homework. Most people are ok with them, however, there are many professional companies such as brothers who won't even stock them due to quality problems and their major chattering issues.
I just finished installing a centerforce dual friction on my bros car. A little pricy, but worth every cent. It grabs every bit as good as the spec, has much less pedal effort, and best of all NO CHATTERING
just my .02
I have found specs quality control to be less than optimal. Specs also have a MAJOR chattering problem. Often it goes away, but all too often, it does not, like what happened with my brother. Not only that, but his went south after 5100k miles. that could have been due to several different reasons, one being a bad adjustment on our behalf, but based on the two different specs we have used, the chattering problem alone is bull**** enough to make me not want one. His chatter never went away.
They grab like an on/off switch, but after they break in, it won't grab quite the same. People around the net treat them like they are the last word in clutches. Do your homework. Most people are ok with them, however, there are many professional companies such as brothers who won't even stock them due to quality problems and their major chattering issues.
I just finished installing a centerforce dual friction on my bros car. A little pricy, but worth every cent. It grabs every bit as good as the spec, has much less pedal effort, and best of all NO CHATTERING
just my .02
stangbear427
Active Member
No chattering from my SPEC, and this is the first bad thing I've ever heard about them. I was warned when I bought it (from SPEC) that if it wasn't broken in as directed to the letter that might happen though- guess I did it right. It grabs like crazy, and I have an overkill of traction to put it to the test. I have, however, grenaded a Centerforce DF with a minor bolt on car and stock suspension- and know many people who have, one being the ASE Master Tech who puts in all my clutches who has three DF's on his kill list... in a low work pickup truck of all things. As for the King Cobra, my pressure plate started crapping out the first year. I've never delt with Brothers- but I have seen several posts in here dedicated to bringing them down for dishonesty and plain disorganization. I'm reminded of the time I was told by Excessive Motorsports that they don't carry Trick Flow heads anymore because of similar "quality control" complaints... interesting to note which one is out of business now and which is bigger than ever. May be a coincedence, just me...
- Apr 9, 2002
- 1,635
- 18
- 59
Hehe, so much conflict regarding opinions on clutches...makes me understand why different opinions on religions can wreak so much pain, suffering and violence.
Just do your homework, read up on the clutches and buy one. Products that are crappy will not sell. If you install your clutch properly, break it in properly, and drive it properly, ANY name brand clutch will do you good. (when I say drive it properly, I mean get a clutch that will handle the power and abuse you plan an doing) my 2 centados.
Just do your homework, read up on the clutches and buy one. Products that are crappy will not sell. If you install your clutch properly, break it in properly, and drive it properly, ANY name brand clutch will do you good. (when I say drive it properly, I mean get a clutch that will handle the power and abuse you plan an doing) my 2 centados.
stangbear427
Active Member
500 miles around town not highway; with no hard launches, no riding it taking off on hills (you have to use an ebrake start on steep hills) and absolutely no WOT or hard acceleration especially over 3000 rpm and in the higher 3-5 gears. This is all particularly important when the job is done right and the flywheel is ground clean (or replaced), which should be done with every new clutch. The reason is that the clutch doesn't stick to the flywheel, it sticks to the clutch material on the flywheel. A new clutch at the very least means new material, sometimes different material (ie. organic to kevlar). If the flywheel doesn't have at least 500 around town easy miles to accumulate the proper and even coat of appropriate clutch material, then it may fail prematurely, not grab as well as it should, and it almost certainly will chatter like a child out in the cold. If the Flywheel isn't reground when a new clutch is installed, the odds are 100% better that the clutch will chatter, as well as exhibit all the other mentioned drivability issues. It only takes one mistake during the break in period to mess up a new clutch for life. So be carefull.MUSTANGJOE said:
stangbear427
Active Member
No actually, I'm serious. It's an honest question.
I'm just thinking of the way the system works. Once you let out on the clutch, everything should be fully engaged. I imagine that the pressure plate doesn't have a break in, and shouldn't allow the disc to slip at all, so theoretically speaking, full throttle or heavy throttle shouldn't have any effect whatsoever on the clutch after full engagement.
The only thing that I can consider is that if you are easy getting out of first during the break in, then full throttle it, let off the gas, your engine will still be spinning too fast for second gear, which can hurt the disc during break in. Am I on the right track here?? Just looking for a scientific, or logical explanation behind this so that I do the right thing in the future
I asked this because my bro is on his break in period with his centerforce dual friction
I'm just thinking of the way the system works. Once you let out on the clutch, everything should be fully engaged. I imagine that the pressure plate doesn't have a break in, and shouldn't allow the disc to slip at all, so theoretically speaking, full throttle or heavy throttle shouldn't have any effect whatsoever on the clutch after full engagement.
The only thing that I can consider is that if you are easy getting out of first during the break in, then full throttle it, let off the gas, your engine will still be spinning too fast for second gear, which can hurt the disc during break in. Am I on the right track here?? Just looking for a scientific, or logical explanation behind this so that I do the right thing in the future
I asked this because my bro is on his break in period with his centerforce dual friction