Guys -- Here are my codes from my car and I have read what they are but what do I fix? KOEO: 51 85 then 51 66 95 Then KOER: 98 51 Some say they are Mass-Air in proper voltage, does that mean I need a new Mass Air Meter or sensor? Those are the types of questions I have also I measured the voltage at the IAC and it's 11.8 with the KOEO. I'm going to get a new one because if I disconnect it and spout plug, the car will idle like a champ. Once I plug it in and the spout the car won't idle for anything. Any Ideas? Thanks in advanced..
That does and I'm looking at it now, but what code of those would throw the 98 code when running. Also, how do I fix the Mass Air Issue? Do i need another Mass Air Sensor or another whole Mass Air Meter(the housing that the air goes through)? Thanks
Code 51 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor signal is/was too high - Possible bad ECT sensor, or wiring. Possible missing signal ground – black/wire wire broken or bad connection. With the power off, measure the resistance between the black/white wire and battery ground. You should see less than 1 ohm. Check the same black /white wire on the TPS and MAP sensor. More than 1 ohm there and the wire is probably broken in the harness between the engine and the computer. The 10 pin connectors pass the black/white wire back to the computer, and can cause problems. Pin 7 on the computer - ECT signal in. at 176 degrees F it should be .80 volts Voltages may be measured across the ECT by probing the connector from the rear. Use care in doing it so that you don't damage the wiring or connector. Here's the table : 68 degrees F = 3.02 v 86 degrees F = 2.62 v 104 degrees F = 2.16 v 122 degrees F = 1.72 v 140 degrees F = 1.35 v 158 degrees F = 1.04 v 176 degrees F = .80 v 194 degrees F = .61 Note that all resistance tests must be done with power off. Measuring resistance with a circuit powered on will give false readings and possibly damage the meter. Ohms measures at the computer with the computer disconnected, or at the sensor with the sensor disconnected. 50 degrees F = 58.75 K ohms 68 degrees F = 37.30 K ohms 86 degrees F = 27.27 K ohms 104 degrees F = 16.15 K ohms 122 degrees F = 10.97 K ohms 140 degrees F = 7.60 K ohms 158 degrees F = 5.37 K ohms 176 degrees F = 3.84 K ohms 194 degrees F = 2.80 K ohms Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/ http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif Code 66 MAF below minimum test voltage. Insufficient or no voltage from MAF. Dirty MAF element, bad MAF, bad MAF wiring, missing power to MAF. Check for missing +12 volts on this circuit. Check the two links for a wiring diagram to help you find the red wire for computer power relay switched +12 volts. Check for 12 volts between the red and black wires on the MAF heater (usually pins A & B). while the connector is plugged into the MAF. This may require the use of a couple of safety pins to probe the MAF connector from the back side of it. There are three parts in a MAF: the heater, the sensor element and the amplifier. The heater heats the MAF sensor element causing the resistance to increase. The amplifier buffers the MAF output signal and has a resistor that is laser trimmed to provide an output range compatible with the computer's load tables. The MAF element is secured by 2 screws & has 1 wiring connector. To clean the element, remove it from the MAF housing and spray it down with electronic parts cleaner or non-inflammable brake parts cleaner (same stuff in a bigger can and cheaper too). The MAF output varies with RPM which causes the airflow to increase or decease. The increase of air across the MAF sensor element causes it to cool, allowing more voltage to pass and telling the computer to increase the fuel flow. A decrease in airflow causes the MAF sensor element to get warmer, decreasing the voltage and reducing the fuel flow. Measure the MAF output at pins C & D on the MAF connector (dark blue/orange and tan/light blue) or at pins 50 & 9 on the computer. At idle = approximately .6 volt 20 MPH = approximately 1.10 volt 40 MPH = approximately 1.70 volt 60 MPH = approximately 2.10 volt Check the resistance of the MAF signal wiring. Pin D on the MAF and pin 50 on the computer (dark blue/orange wire) should be less than 2 ohms. Pin C on the MAF and pin 9 on the computer (tan/light blue wire) should be less than 2 ohms. There should be a minimum of 10K ohms between either pin C or D on the MAF and ground. See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2 Birds (website host) http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif Code 85 - CANP solenoid - The Carbon Canister solenoid is inoperative. Check vacuum lines for leaks and cracks. Check electrical wiring for loose connections, damaged wiring and insulation. Check solenoid valve operation by grounding the gray/yellow wire to the solenoid and blowing through it. The computer provides the ground for the solenoid. The red wire to the solenoid is always energized any time the ignition switch is in the run position. Code 95 - the 95 code is because at one time or another the fuel pump relay hiccupped and didn't provide power the pump when the computer told it to run. Sometimes this is a one time thing, other times it is a no run or runs poorly condition. To help troubleshoot the 95 code, follow this link for a wiring diagram http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80167162.gif Using the diagram, check the red/black wire from the fuel pump relay: you should see 12 volts or so. If not, check the inertia switch: on a hatch it is on the drivers side by the taillight. Look for a black rubber plug that pops out: if you don't find it, then loosen up the plastic trim. Check for voltage on both sides of the switch. If there is voltage on both sides, then check the Pink/black wire on the fuel pump relay: it is the power feed to the fuel pump. No voltage there, check the Orange/lt blue wire, it is the power feed to the fuel pump relay & has a fuse link in it. Good voltage there & at the Pink/black wire, swap the relay. Code 98 - basic computer internal tests not passed before it started processing the request to dump codes. Do a Key On Engine Off test before starting the engine. Wait until you see the 11 flash before pressing any buttons if you have a hand operated scanner. The computer is operating in Limp mode, so fix any codes it dumps prior to doing anything else.
