The following is an email from my friend that has a 65 A code GT 'vert. It is already a sunny day driver, he just wants to perfect what is there, making it his ultimate sunny day driver in the process. The italicized portions are my response.
So, I found more stuff to do. was appalled by the dyno numbers from
our cars in stock form (140ish HP at the wheels)
While I'm all about improving the performance, you have to understand that 140ish to the wheels ain't all that bad. Consider that your '94 Cobra is under 200 at the wheels, and newer 260 flywheel hp GT's dyno at between 195-205 at the wheels in stock form. I shudder to think what my 96 GT's rear wheel hp is.
Do you have a source that has nice numbers (dyno) of performance
products? an intake shootout? I know for a fact I have seen this in a
magazine, not sure what part. I think they were heads.
I would like to know the expect HP from an edelbrock 'kit'
There are lots of comparisons of every component you can name, especially the leading intake stuff. The VAST MAJORITY of people go with the Edelbrock intake (Performer for street, RPM for race. I think they are similar enough that it doesn't really matter. They do say though that the 289 is a better high RPM engine than the 302 though) and either the Holley or Edelbrock carb. (Holley can be made faster, Edelbrock stays in tune/streetable) It is also going to be difficult (impossible) to really estimate what you might get from this swap based on your "RV cam" of unknown origin. I believe the stats on an entire Edelbrock package (intake, carb, cam, heads) can be found on their site.
Speaking of heads, I need them too. Mine have ALWAYS been some kinda
funky, and I know there is still something awry in the right bank, with
the sounds (sucking) at the exhaust. Started reading, found that you
can bolt on 351 heads (from certain years) and that helps. Wonder how
much. Need to find a head comparison. I dream of the day of not
worrying about rocker adjustment, and leaking valve seals.
Swapping 351W heads is an old trick that has kind of fallen by the wayside because there are so many great aftermarket choices now. If you want to spend cash, there are tons of brands to choose from. I myself would want Edelbrock heads, if price was no issue, but of course it is. If your heads are worn out, I'd just look into a decent set of ported/polished and rebuilt iron heads (289/302). That should be more than you need out of your cruiser. This is one reason why I will eventually replace my engine with a roller block from a '85-'92ish 5.0. Even if I stick with the carb for a while, a good roller block with P&P stock E7 heads can still be damn fast. Probably as fast as we need anyway with the right components to go with it. ( lower gears, and a T-5
)
read that you can swap 84-88 mark VII read discs onto an 8 inch with no
problem. that sounds like a fun project that will take 10X the time
and money to do.
Is this what you found on the discs? http://www.ultrastang.com/Ultrainfo.asp?Page_ID=14
If so, Steve is a great guy, and I wouldn't hesitate to get anything from him. He used to post on StangNet alot, and he really knows his stuff. I'd consider rear discs as one of those things that look cool and give you bragging rights, but aren't really necessary. Still, its something that I will do eventually, when I run out of other stuff to do.
what have you read about ignition systems? are they really worth it?
I just can't believe that a $150 set of wires will give me 1-2 mpg
better econ.. I presume I am wrong, since 'they' seem to have real
numbers. how about the super coils?
Ignition systems are worth while if you have a really hot motor. For our applications, I am of the opinion that the Pertronix (which we have), a newish set of wires and maybe a "flamethrower" Pertronix coil is all we need. One of the main reasons to get a high-dollar ignition system is if your hot-rodded motor is blowing out your stock ignition spark. Not something that I think is going to be an issue with our older cars. Not for a long time (and alot of $) anyway. I would upgrade the ignition if I was going with aluminum heads, a really hot cam, and/or some type of power adder. (blower, nitrous)
need to figure how to put a dual cylinder on the brakes- with power
brakes- and an export brace. ideas?
There is a "Pancake" brake booster that is basically a condensed version of stock that will clear the newer/safer dual cyl master cylinder. Go here: http://www.nationalpartsdepot.com/catalog/mustang/mustang view catalog sections.html
and look on Page 40 under "Brakes"
I think a list is forming:
-need to buy the bushing for the tie rod that I need to buy.
-need to figure out what the hell is going on up in the front end-
(need a spotter while driving)
-new tires I do like my BFG comp T/As alot.
-alignment I know just the guy, especially since it is almost impossible to find anyone who can/will do these old cars.
-Fix a/c. haha. I'm really never going to use it. maybe I should
forget about it. I don't know how you could live without it. August with no shade is brutal.
-big sub, new amp, rework the front speakers, maybe 6x9's too. build
stereo gizmo for the glove box. wire the light on the old radio.
again. rewire amp & crossover- mount too.
-weld exhaust
-track down exhaust leaks. when I put the new heads on!
-sound deadener? in the doors for sure?
-make sure I can change the tire (jack?) Might be worth while to pick up a space-saver tire from a latemodel Mustang. I'd like to do that anyway. More room for Sub Woofers too.
-beefier cam? As long as it still idles good enough to be easily drivable/cruisable on the street, that'd be great.
-fix passenger door latch. soon.
-take out the good ol' semi-leaking rochester. before it turns into a
fireball on top of my engine. The sooner the better.
-rubber sun visor bushings Cheap and easy. Just don't be surprised when they turn into dust in two years.
-de-rust chrome sun visor metal? How? I'd think that stuff is so boogered that you'd have to replace it to do any good.
-3.50s? That'd be really nice. Probably a good ratio to go with too since you don't have overdrive. If you did, I'd go with at least 3.73's.
-improve rear sway bar?I took mine completely off and never missed it.
-rear disc? Nice, but not really necessary. I'd put this at the bottom of the priority list.
-new coil, wires. Like I said, that Flamethrower coil is what I'd get.
-rework throttle after new carb/intake
-find 65 gt glove box door.
things to add?
-AOD transmission?
So, I found more stuff to do. was appalled by the dyno numbers from
our cars in stock form (140ish HP at the wheels)
While I'm all about improving the performance, you have to understand that 140ish to the wheels ain't all that bad. Consider that your '94 Cobra is under 200 at the wheels, and newer 260 flywheel hp GT's dyno at between 195-205 at the wheels in stock form. I shudder to think what my 96 GT's rear wheel hp is.
Do you have a source that has nice numbers (dyno) of performance
products? an intake shootout? I know for a fact I have seen this in a
magazine, not sure what part. I think they were heads.
I would like to know the expect HP from an edelbrock 'kit'
There are lots of comparisons of every component you can name, especially the leading intake stuff. The VAST MAJORITY of people go with the Edelbrock intake (Performer for street, RPM for race. I think they are similar enough that it doesn't really matter. They do say though that the 289 is a better high RPM engine than the 302 though) and either the Holley or Edelbrock carb. (Holley can be made faster, Edelbrock stays in tune/streetable) It is also going to be difficult (impossible) to really estimate what you might get from this swap based on your "RV cam" of unknown origin. I believe the stats on an entire Edelbrock package (intake, carb, cam, heads) can be found on their site.
Speaking of heads, I need them too. Mine have ALWAYS been some kinda
funky, and I know there is still something awry in the right bank, with
the sounds (sucking) at the exhaust. Started reading, found that you
can bolt on 351 heads (from certain years) and that helps. Wonder how
much. Need to find a head comparison. I dream of the day of not
worrying about rocker adjustment, and leaking valve seals.
Swapping 351W heads is an old trick that has kind of fallen by the wayside because there are so many great aftermarket choices now. If you want to spend cash, there are tons of brands to choose from. I myself would want Edelbrock heads, if price was no issue, but of course it is. If your heads are worn out, I'd just look into a decent set of ported/polished and rebuilt iron heads (289/302). That should be more than you need out of your cruiser. This is one reason why I will eventually replace my engine with a roller block from a '85-'92ish 5.0. Even if I stick with the carb for a while, a good roller block with P&P stock E7 heads can still be damn fast. Probably as fast as we need anyway with the right components to go with it. ( lower gears, and a T-5
) read that you can swap 84-88 mark VII read discs onto an 8 inch with no
problem. that sounds like a fun project that will take 10X the time
and money to do.
Is this what you found on the discs? http://www.ultrastang.com/Ultrainfo.asp?Page_ID=14
If so, Steve is a great guy, and I wouldn't hesitate to get anything from him. He used to post on StangNet alot, and he really knows his stuff. I'd consider rear discs as one of those things that look cool and give you bragging rights, but aren't really necessary. Still, its something that I will do eventually, when I run out of other stuff to do.
what have you read about ignition systems? are they really worth it?
I just can't believe that a $150 set of wires will give me 1-2 mpg
better econ.. I presume I am wrong, since 'they' seem to have real
numbers. how about the super coils?
Ignition systems are worth while if you have a really hot motor. For our applications, I am of the opinion that the Pertronix (which we have), a newish set of wires and maybe a "flamethrower" Pertronix coil is all we need. One of the main reasons to get a high-dollar ignition system is if your hot-rodded motor is blowing out your stock ignition spark. Not something that I think is going to be an issue with our older cars. Not for a long time (and alot of $) anyway. I would upgrade the ignition if I was going with aluminum heads, a really hot cam, and/or some type of power adder. (blower, nitrous)
need to figure how to put a dual cylinder on the brakes- with power
brakes- and an export brace. ideas?
There is a "Pancake" brake booster that is basically a condensed version of stock that will clear the newer/safer dual cyl master cylinder. Go here: http://www.nationalpartsdepot.com/catalog/mustang/mustang view catalog sections.html
and look on Page 40 under "Brakes"
I think a list is forming:
-need to buy the bushing for the tie rod that I need to buy.
-need to figure out what the hell is going on up in the front end-
(need a spotter while driving)
-new tires I do like my BFG comp T/As alot.
-alignment I know just the guy, especially since it is almost impossible to find anyone who can/will do these old cars.
-Fix a/c. haha. I'm really never going to use it. maybe I should
forget about it. I don't know how you could live without it. August with no shade is brutal.
-big sub, new amp, rework the front speakers, maybe 6x9's too. build
stereo gizmo for the glove box. wire the light on the old radio.
again. rewire amp & crossover- mount too.
-weld exhaust
-track down exhaust leaks. when I put the new heads on!
-sound deadener? in the doors for sure?
-make sure I can change the tire (jack?) Might be worth while to pick up a space-saver tire from a latemodel Mustang. I'd like to do that anyway. More room for Sub Woofers too.
-beefier cam? As long as it still idles good enough to be easily drivable/cruisable on the street, that'd be great.
-fix passenger door latch. soon.
-take out the good ol' semi-leaking rochester. before it turns into a
fireball on top of my engine. The sooner the better.
-rubber sun visor bushings Cheap and easy. Just don't be surprised when they turn into dust in two years.
-de-rust chrome sun visor metal? How? I'd think that stuff is so boogered that you'd have to replace it to do any good.
-3.50s? That'd be really nice. Probably a good ratio to go with too since you don't have overdrive. If you did, I'd go with at least 3.73's.
-improve rear sway bar?I took mine completely off and never missed it.
-rear disc? Nice, but not really necessary. I'd put this at the bottom of the priority list.
-new coil, wires. Like I said, that Flamethrower coil is what I'd get.
-rework throttle after new carb/intake
-find 65 gt glove box door.
things to add?
-AOD transmission?
