Resolved Cranks but still doesn’t start. Ran through the checklist and still doesn’t start.

[reddy351]

Dang it. I’ll report back tomorrow. Lol.

Edit: Yes. That is exactly right. Intake valve closes, HB is at TDC and the rotor is at the #1 terminal on the cap. (I guess/hope there’s no need to tear into the front of the engine, now.) It’s close enough it should start.

I knew I did it right. It’s just that when I read it at 11:10 last night, I had doubt. Lol.

 

[reddy351]

Well, today I shot some 2-cycle oil into the cylinders, set the spark plugs at .040”, swapped-in a “known good” Ford distributor, re-checked the compression (it’s now up between 120-150 psi) and put it all back together. It seems to be closer to starting but still doing the same thing while cranking.

I’m thinking it has a very weak spark. Not sure where to look to verify that.

Thoughts?

 

[General karthief]

Just pull a plug a watch the spark while cranking

 

[reddy351]

I was thinking about this yesterday and decided to try it today: I pulled the valvecovers off and loosened each rocker 1/2 turn. It actually started and “sort of” idled. It ran like complete dog crap but it does run. I even revved it just a little.

My thought is that when it “started” back at the beginning of this, the lifters weren’t pumped up. Once they got some oil pressure, they adjusted up and held the valves open, keeping the engine from starting. Now, since they’re ALL backed off, they’ll all need adjusted properly. The problem is that I like to adjust valves while the engine is running. Lol. Gonna be difficult with a big air plenum hanging right over the valvetrain.

 

[weendoggy]

I was thinking about this yesterday and decided to try it today: I pulled the valvecovers off and loosened each rocker 1/2 turn. It actually started and “sort of” idled. It ran like complete dog crap but it does run. I even revved it just a little.

My thought is that when it “started” back at the beginning of this, the lifters weren’t pumped up. Once they got some oil pressure, they adjusted up and held the valves open, keeping the engine from starting. Now, since they’re ALL backed off, they’ll all need adjusted properly. The problem is that I like to adjust valves while the engine is running. Lol. Gonna be difficult with a big air plenum hanging right over the valvetrain.

OK, if it "almost" started running, take the lifters to zero lash and tighten 1/2 to 3/4 and try it again. That shouldn't be an issue. I've set many (after soaking in oil) at 3/4 and engine runs fine.

 

[Bullitt347]

Adjust the valves
Do it this way:
When the intake valve is fully open on the cylinder you are adjusting, set the exhaust valve lash.
Error to the side of lose.
Then rotate the engine until the exhaust valve is fully open and adjust the intake valve.
Do this on all cylinders.
This guarantees that you don't "miss" getting each cylinder to TDC when adjusting both at the same time.
Once the engine is running, then you can worry about adjusting the valve to the correct pre-load.
It will just be noisy but not hurt anything.
The fact that the engine ran when you backed off the adjustment speaks volumes.

 

[AeroCoupe]

Scorpion Racing video on installation and adjustment.


View: https://youtu.be/EUCSQ73AoVM?feature=shared

 

[Mindseye007]

So you think it's a tooth off then? I watched a couple of videos (since it's been a long time since I installed a distributor) and they all said it should point at the bolt on the right.

I have to swap the TFI anyway. I'll try moving it around a little bit.

Thanks for the heads-up!

Edit for "progress": I moved the timing by a tooth. (Also verified compression stroke for the #1 cylinder while I was at it) Didn't make a difference. I replaced the TFI with a "known good" one. No difference. I checked for 12v on the injector harness and had 11.55v where the battery (due to much cranking) provides 11.85v. So, that's all good.

What Tfi did you buy?

 

[reddy351]

What Tfi did you buy?

I have a complete Ford distributor in it with a Motorcraft TFI and cap/rotor.

 

[reddy351]

OK, if it "almost" started running, take the lifters to zero lash and tighten 1/2 to 3/4 and try it again. That shouldn't be an issue. I've set many (after soaking in oil) at 3/4 and engine runs fine.

Yeah. As soon as I pulled this engine apart I put the lifters in motor oil. That’s just good practice.

 

[reddy351]

The fact that the engine ran when you backed off the adjustment speaks volumes.

It all makes sense now, right?

 

[reddy351]

I’m back. Finally had a chance to readjust the valves. It runs but only on two cylinders. #2 and #4 are the only header pipes that get hot after about 30 seconds of running. The rest of them, you can put your hand on and not get burned.

I adjusted the clearance out of each rocker (zero lash) and then turned each nut 1/2 turn to set preload. These are the stock roller rockers that came out of this engine.

If it was the wrong firing order 1, 2, 6 and 8 would still be hot and there’d be backfiring. So, I’m ruling that out.

Do I need to adjust the valves again? Or go and back them off a 1/4 turn?

 

[reddy351]

Turns out, it was the injectors. I took the “pencil thin” injectors out and put the factory Bosch ones back in. Started RIGHT up.

I sincerely thank everyone who helped. It’s been a long run, so far. And the work is just getting started.

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