I was driving down the highway with cruse on and it just stopped working. The cigarette lighter and break lights still work so I don't think it is a fuse. What is the first thing I should check? anyone have this problem before?
check your vacuum lines and such..........i believe the canister is located in the passenger side wheel well behind the plastic wheelwell liner......hotwheels of turborides
There is vacuum switch on the brake pedal. It has 1 vacuum line connected to it. Make sure the brake isn't holding it open, which disengages the cruse control. Next dump the codes & look for codes 27 or 29. Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/ OR See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help OR See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars. Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test. Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes. For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.
1. Does your horn work? 2. Is your speedometer still working? 3. Are your brake lights stuck on? 4. Is the actuator cable from the Speed control servo still attached to your throttle body linkage? Those are the 4 easiest things to check first. If none of those, you will need further, more detailed testing. Let us know.
By The Way, is your car standard or Auto? Standards also are equipped with a clutch switch which disconnects the cruise when the clutch pedal is stepped on.
My car is a standard. and I am thinking that the problem is probably with the clutch switch because I used to have to pull upwards on the clutch in order for the cruise to start working. Does anyone know where this switch is? BTW I checked all the simple things that JB66 mentioned and all OK. Thanks for your replies.
Under the instrument panel the switch is a plastic plunger type mounted to the brake and clutch pedal support on the side near the gas pedal. It is activated by a bar that is part of the clutch pedal assy. The vacuum dump valve is located nearby which releases servo vacuum upon braking. The clutch switch has two wires (both R/LG), and the dump valve has a vacuum line attached. The clutch switch can be jumpered to test. To test the dump valve, disconnect vac. line and plug line. Let us know!
