Can someone enlighten me on the difference between wet kits and dry kits, talking about n20 here. I just want to know the differences, good and bad, both. I feel like this is an newbie question, but ive never had it, nor have i thought about till now since the kits are soo cheap, and i am kinda thinking about it now since i have some left over financial aid money coming back to me in december.
the wet kits are Fuel/n2o , Dry kits are just the n2o , with the wet kits the fuel is supplied out of your fuel rail valve and is safer to use on our cars, no tune needed since the fuel needed with the n2o is accounted for but you might want to consider two/one step colder plugs and pulling bit of timing just in case depending on how much you spray , also there is Direct port type which sprays equal amount of n2o/fuel into each cylinder under the injector but its pricey , hope this helps.
what are the downfalls of the dry kits? what if it is tuned correctly? would the wet kit still be safer to use?
they have a tendency to cause a really huge lean spike with the initial hit , computer has to compensate for it and can be problematic at times , also there is a risk of puddling fuel/nitrous in your intake which i seen with my own eyes is capable of making a golf ball large hole in your hood , now at small shots 75-100 this things have a really really small chance of happening , but we know how easy and tempting is changing one jet is to gain that extra 50 hp... a time
As mentioned by kuwait, the EEC becomes the "brains" of a dry system. The computer has to detect and compensate for the fuel levels. Our computers just aren't designed to handle this and frequently "screw up". Those "screw ups" can cause some serious damage. A wet kit will always be safer and more efficient than a dry kit (unless you have the abundance of mods to support a dry kit). The only problem with a wet kit is that you essentially have highly flammable fuel being sprayed into the intake. If you have too much fuel being sprayed, you can form puddles within the intake tract and....well.....search youtube for "nitrous backfires" and see what happens.
You might want to switch out your intake manifold for a metal one, those backfires will just incenarate a plastic one and maybe your hood, If you dead set on getting nitrous make sure your car can handle it. Meaning don't blow a hole through your engine block, just my 2 cents. Yea, check You Tube for nitrous backfires in a worst case scenario.
Another vote for wet kits, just for the sheer simplicity of it. An easier way to add fuel, especially if someone doesn't have the ability to tune the car themselves. I remember one guy who would spray a 50 shot before the MAF on a 96ish GT. It seemed to work well for him (but that was probably the limit of how much he could spray).
why go to the hassle of buying a new nos system + new intake when you can just get a direct port and skip all the puddling issues , thats what i did
Well, the wet kits seem really tempting because of the low price of it, and i do plan on tuning it either way, the tuner we have here in my area, guy is jus a wiz when it comes to tuning. And i would plan on using a 100 shot. But since more of you have leaned towards a wet kit. I feel pretty confortable with pulling the plug on a zex kit when the time comes.
Do you mean somthing like direct port fuel injection like the the old Camaros, Please enlighten me? Seriously, I'm only familiar with having it put in from the top of the manifold. Where else nearest the cylinders could it be injected?
NOS used to have a system for the 4.6's, but I can't find it on Summit's website. But this is what he is referring to, but just picture the same setup on a 4.6 intake.
yea but its complete with every safe feature there is and is cheaper than doing intake + nos because as far as i know , most complete nitrous run around 600ish and intakes aren't exactly the cheapest thing on earth , isnt your peace of mind worth that extra $100 ? just a thought
