Dyno predictions game :)

what will the leakdown test tell me that a compression test won't?

also... as I'm tuning it, some quick things I could touch on:

1) What should the spark plug gap be with my setup? I think I have em at .050 but not sure. MSD, accel coil, pertronix, stock distributor (for now),

2) In order to have some really predictable timing, is there an affordable solution as far as new distributors go? I don't wnat to spend $400 on an MSD thingy. But I'm not convinced my stock distributor's advance is very reliable and the thing could be dropping sparks at high rpm.

3) Appears I lost the dyno chart, but aside from the A/F, the other interesting thing was that the HP curve shape looked about what I wanted it to look like (peaked around 5800, pulls till 6000), but the torque curve had a huge spike at around 3500 and started coming back down. Is there any reason for that? The dyno shop owner was surprised it didn't keep building, and whatever caused that probably caused my peak #'s to be lower (had the curve followed what it was doing up until 3500rpm, it would have corresponded to higher torque numbers throughout, and obviously higher hp figures).

The A/F ratio had just leaned out around that rpm range, which may explain some of it.

4. Anyone know a place in socal that could do some of this (particularly the timing, thats been a pain... i can handle jetting it and such) for a couple hundred? The last shop I asked was quoting like $400, and thats without any dyno #'s to prove it. Or if someone wants to come out and help me time it one weekend I'll buy beer/lunch

5. Any definitive opinion on 15w40 or 20w50 oil? You generally hear synthetic oil picks up a few horses, but as far as power goes I won't be losing anything noticable with heavier dino oil right versus lighter dino oil (im not considering using synthetic, for what thats worth)?
 
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Soooo... thread resurrected from the dead.. with good news!!

I needed my choke adjusted recently and took it to a dyno tuning place near my work in Orange County.

Since the dyno above I haven't made many changes to the engine. Added a late 80s serpentine setup, an electric fan, fatter radiator and a few more MSD components. Other than that have just put a couple thousand more miles on it, but the guts were all the same. Since this dyno I've been basically downplaying the build to anyone who asked... the basic line would usually go "well, it make 255/300 at the wheels... its basically a 300 hp car, not bad but not great. if it had better compression it'd do a lot better."

Well, I go to the dyno place last Wednesday and they've done a partial run, which they said they stopped because they heard some valve noise. The had taken it to 4200... and it was already making 254 hp. My eyes got kinda wide and i said valve noise be damned, I'm going to see the rest of this curve (I did have them adjust the valvetrain to reduce risk a bit, figured it wasn't a horrible idea.. they may have just ripped me off who knows).

Results: 316 rwhp, 336 rwtq, and my tires lost traction on the dyno :woot:

Obviously the biggest change was the previous dyno was a Mustang dyno and this was an accelerometer based dyno (thats how the guy described it anyway, he told me what they're called but i forget, just said it was not a Mustang Dyno).

And unlike last time, I didn't take the time to clean the filter, secure the header bolts/remove exhaust leaks, give it fresh oil, check plugs, etc. Plus... definitely missed peak torque due to traction, so the cinder block mod might come in handy too. Might be a few left in there :hmm:

Insert happiness! Interestingly TD68302 is still the winner, though he's now MUCH closer (within a horse on both counts). Though if I actually take the time to prep it... might have some left in it.

Lastly... video is here:
View: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WBwLN4beIwY


And chart attached. Woohoo!
 

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