im really upset with wut she layed down, 172 hp @ 3800 and 251 tq pretty much from 1700 rpms untill about 4k. of course it was at my buddies shop which is nothing but fbodies there so i heard it from them. but i am suprised it ran a 14.7 with that little of power. btw its bone stock with a 144k on the odemeter. it took forever to rev all the way up. over 20 seconds, damn 2.73's. once it hits about 4500 it just doesnt wanna pull at all. we were shuttin it down at 5500 where the speedo was readin a 149 mph lol.
dynoed the stang
- Thread starter jawsgt
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Black95GTS
Active Member
jawsgt said:
Don't be dissapointed, 14.7 on a bone stock stang is good driving! And who cares about the peaks??? It's all about area under the curves. And about that revving issue, thats the biggest difference I noticed when I swapped intakes, that the car had NO problems revving to redline.
Adam
HGFireHazard
Member
After I put a new exhaust on my car (as in the sig) it took it up to redline and wanted more... but I didn't give it any, lol. Bone stock just like the others said isn't absolutely horrible for that mileage, however I would think you should have a little more under there. Have you been on schedule with your tune ups and such?
Guero said:
all piston based engines have piston rings, those piston rings seal the area between the piston and the cyclynder wall. After wear and tear the rings start failing and this causes blowby for one...but also causes lower compression due to it not being able to keep a seal on things. Less fuel mixture being compressed = less power, because air+fuel and compression is what hp is anyways. Now there is other things that affect power ofcourse but this is why a high mileage motor may seem tired
Your HP indicates 20% down from the stock HP rating at the crank when new. With an automatic, that is right on. With a T5 you might expect something like 15% to 17% loss from the crank rating to the rear wheel rating.
So you are sitting, actually, very good for a stock car. Should be a great platform to mod, and quiet those F-body boys - at least a bit.
So you are sitting, actually, very good for a stock car. Should be a great platform to mod, and quiet those F-body boys - at least a bit.
super302
I'd do anything for free Bapples
you need a special tool, somebody correct me if i'm wrong, but i believe you want around 160psi+/cylinderGuero said:
69clark
Founding Member
CManT1914
New Member
super302 said:
You need a compression guage. They're around $20 at parts stores. You thread one end into the spark plug hole, disconnect the coil, fuel pump, or anything to prevent the motor from starting. Then crank the motor over 5 or 6 times while holding the throttle wide open.
There is no set number, though most of our stangs are around 160psi or so. The more important thing is to have a relatively close relationship between all 8 cylinders. For instance, if cylinders 1, 2, and 4 are 160, while 3 is 120, cylinder 3 has a problem.
Cobra_Dusten
Member
blake89stang said:Thats sucky. car must have been beat them 50k miles.
i thought it was 220bhp???
That 220Hp is flywheel hp, you have to subtract for drivetrain loss, or approx 17%. 220 x .83 = 182HP, which is right where he said he was.
CManT1914
New Member
GRGT1994 said:
LMAO!! That's the best answer anybody could give you! 
Seriously though, most h/c/i kits will get you pretty close to the 300rwhp, especially with LT's. I bet you'd see 300 at the wheels. Torque, probably 320?
The ET's all depend on your suspension and driving.