I have a 90 lx hatch, and I do want to put a system in, but I want something that I can unplug, and take out if I want to go racing. The hatch is plenty big, nothing else is in it, I don't want anything crazy, just a set of 12's that hit hard, and something that I won't be ashamed of turning up. But the big thing is that I need to be able to take it out with out spending an hour unplugging it.
just get a box with and mount the amp to it,then get some connectors for HD equipment,like a fork lift plug and use those for your power and ground and get a smaller plug for the remote turn on.
Yep, the box would work great. The only wires that would need disconnected would be the ground, power, remote, and rca cables. Only the remote and power wire actually have to have a connector that keeps them from contacting and grounding out. The rca cables and ground are not too big of a deal. Here is my setup.
Is there any way to have all that wired up to a harness and just unplug the harness? And what subs do you recomend? I'm not putting 15's in, but 2 13's or hard hitting 12's? What sizes, watt. and such. One of my boys on the football team is running a 2400 watt amp to 2 15's, it knocks well, but his neighbor has a single 13 and hits harder. Both in the same type of Jeep. What do you recomend?
I have used trailer connectors before, but it was a subtube with internal amp. Any connector that you can disconnect and still keep the integrity of the gauge would work. Radio Shack might be a good place to start. What about a 3 wire electrical plug-in? You only need 3 wires, power, ground, remote. You will also have to make sure ur not unhooking your ground when there is power still running to amp.
I have been having really good luck with Kicker L5/L7's.Put them in a sealed box to specs and you cant miss.I dont care for the JLW7,its over priced and hasnt impressed me yet. Try looking for a computer repair place r electronics supply and they will have connectors from 2 wire up to 10+.
If I were you--I'd do a permanent mount with the amp....then just set it up so that you can disconnect the sub whenever you want. I've done terminal cups on the side panels in hatchbacks just to give it a nice clean look and no tools to take the box out..and no dangling wires left behind.
Is anyone familiar with the 'power wedge' from JL Audio? It is a sub box that holds 3 10's or 3 12's. Like I said in my first post, I don't want a crazy system, but I do want something that will be lower, and still be able to be heard over my exhaust. 15 feet behind the car, my exhaust is running 115 dB. and I want my subs to be heard over that if I'm crusing and decide to rev up.
