EFI Harness from scratch...

[68rustang]

EFI Harness from scratch... (DUW)

With the help of you guys I am hoping to build an EFI harness from scratch for my 68 coupe. The twist is I will be using a 95 GT MT computer and harness not the standard 89-93 stuff. I have read everything at www.fordfuelinjection.com and have the book by Probst . I also have most of the needed harness zip tied to some pegboard in the garage:

I also have this from www.fordfuelinjection.com:

I have identified everything on Ryan's diagram other than the VSS plug and the Self Test Input connector.

Where are the plugs for the:

BP (barometric pressure sensor)?
KS (knock sensor)?
EVP (EGR valve Position)?
TAB (thermactor air bypass)?
TAD (thermactor air diverter)?
TFI Module?
CANP Solenoid?

WHere on the block is the knock sensor located?

What else do I need to keep?

Does anyone know what the remote mount TFI module looks like, or where it was located on a 95 GT?

I will update the thread as I learn more.

 

[68rustang]

I have done a little more work this evening. I think I have identified some of the things I was asking about earlier today:

I have identified the plugs for the following:
the VSS harness and the plug where it connects to the main harness.
EVR (EGR vacuum regulator)
COIL

I think this is the EGR vacuum regulator (EVR). The two items next to it are the AIRD solenoid and the AIRB solenoid, right?

Still looking for the plugs for the:

CANP (Canister purge)?
BP (barometric pressure sensor)?
KS (knock sensor)?
TAB (thermactor air bypass)?
TAD (thermactor air diverter)?
TFI Module?

Also:
Where on the block is the knock sensor located?

What is this? Is it the ICM (ignition control module) if it is is it the same as the TFI everyone talks about?

What is this funny little plug? It was taped to the main harness and has a grey plastic plug in it?

Is this a BP sensor?

It is off the explorer intake whatever it is and I don't have the harness for it. Where would the BP plug be on the 95 harness?

I might be talking to myself but posting this is helping me figure this mess out I will update the thread as I learn more.

 

[67efivert]

in that last pic its the egr control valve not need at all in ur application

 

[68rustang]

What is this funny little plug?

Frome the guys over at www.mustangsteve.com:
Timing Shunt, Remove to adjust timing, replace to lock it in.
THANKS!

 

[68rustang]

in that last pic its the egr control valve not need at all in ur application

Do you mean the EVR or are you saying the last pic of the silver thing that I am asking if it is a BP sensor?

Is it one of the things I can get rid of entirely or do I have to trick the computer with a resistor?

Either way thanks for the help, I need to identify as much as I can before I start eliminating things.

 

[Red5oh]

The item with the Borg Warner sticker on it (mounted to a heat sink) is your TFI module. It is mounted under the MAF sensor on the 94-95's. The items next to your EVR solenoid you have marked as AIRD and AIRB are the TAD and TAB solenoids. The shunt you call is your SPOUT. The BAP sensor should have been mounted on the firewall almost directly behind the intake, next to the vacuum tree.

I will have to find the canister purge connection for the 95's.

I hope this helps.

Mark

 

[68rustang]

AIRB, AIRD or TAB, TAD...Tomato, tomahtoe The AIRB and AIRD names I found in a Chiltons.

SPOUT, got it.

I am being told over at www.mustangsteve.com that the 95 does not have a BP sensor. Are the BP and BAP the same thing? I am also being told there isn't a knock sensor either.

SO....

Still looking for the plugs for the:

CANP (Canister purge)?
BP (barometric pressure sensor)? <--- NOT USED IN 94-95?
KS (knock sensor)? <--- NOT USED IN 94-95?

Still curious as to what this is?

It is off the explorer intake whatever it is and I don't have the harness for it.

 

[Bullitt]

are you running emissions equipment/a charcoal canister?

if not, you don't need the canister purge solenoid.

won't make a bit of difference in how the car runs or even flash a CEL.

 

[68rustang]

no I am not running any of that stuff. I just figured it would be wise to identify everything I could before I started removing anything. That way I wouldn't remove something I needed and maybe labeled wrong.

 

[darkness falls]

For my car, I had thought about making a custom harness from scratch to my 67

 

[67efivert]

the piece from the exporler is what i was talkin bout the 5.0 dont even use that from factory
oh and darkness i built mine from scratch too looks much cleaner under the hood that way

 

[68rustang]

Ok I have been testing circuits and tracing wires all weekend. This link is what I have come up with:

http://users.adelphia.net/~68rustang/images/mustang/efi/68to95-EFIpinouts.htm

DOes anybody see anything I have removed and shouldn't? Anything I didn't remove and can?

The grey items are the ones I am proposing to be removed from the harness.

 

[ddonaca351]

Hey just fyi... the 94-95 computers are a real pain in the arse to program (compared to 90-93) due to the change in strategy.
They are less forgiving of l/t headers, cams, etc....

Thats not to say that they cant be, just they take a little more "touch".

Just so ya know what youre getting into.
Dave-

 

[68rustang]

I have heard some say they are more trouble. It seems to be one of those "depends on who you ask" things. I am using it because it is what I have. After I initially get this thing running and drive it for a summer I am pulling the motor, stroking it, and going the twEECer route. At which point the stock tune or program doesn't matter.

From another forum I am keeping the BOO switch wire. I guess it is needed for pulling codes.

Thank you for the input.

 

[ddonaca351]

I have heard some say they are more trouble. It seems to be one of those "depends on who you ask" things. I am using it because it is what I have. After I initially get this thing running and drive it for a summer I am pulling the motor, stroking it, and going the twEECer route. At which point the stock tune or program doesn't matter.

From another forum I am keeping the BOO switch wire. I guess it is needed for pulling codes.

Thank you for the input.

Get the RT, the dataloging makes a world of difference for tuning... if youre on the tweecer boards, you could always hit up Darren Woodall and some of the other 94/5 guru's, as well as Clint and his EA software, it is alott of help also.

Good luck,
Dave

 

[68rustang]

The RT is the plan but first things first I need to get this thing running.

 

[68rustang]

Ok, I am so close I can almost hear it running

I have a few loose ends to tie up on the wiring harness and I figured I would start by posting here. My goal rigt now is to only get the engine running. I am not concerned with the rest of the the chassis right now.

1. BOO - Brake On / Off - LT GRN/RED - EEC Pin#2: This will be connected to the Brake light Switch when I go wire the rest of the chassis for now this will not be connected to anything. Is that ok? Will it keep me from starting the engine with it not connected to anything?
2. CPPS - Clutch Pedal Position Switch - LT BLU/YEL - EEC Pin#30: I am not sure I understand what the purpose of this wire is. It looks like the CPPS is a DPDT switch, meaning when it is closed (pedal pushed) it completes the starting circuit and connects EEC#30 with the GRY/RED signal return. I think this means it is telling the computer the clutch is pushed in, Why? Does it matter? Will it keep me from starting the engine with it not connected to anything?
3. Check Engine Light - I can figure this one out. I put in on this list so I wouldn't forget it.
4. Alternator Hookup - I can figure this one out. I put in on this list so I wouldn't forget it.
5. Fuel Pump - I just need to connect two wires. I put in on this list so I wouldn't forget it.

Right now that is it. That is all that is keeping me from starting this pile of parts for the first time.