Engine build up help!

[Pootiestang]

I was curious as to what a good method of cleaning an old engine off was? I have an old 66 289 engine fully dismantled, and some pieces have rust on them? Are they a lost cause or can I somehow have them restored? What are my options? The heads seem to be rusted up and full of gunk (old oil maybe)?

Would it be cheaper to buy a new long block?

where can I find this stuff?

 

[Ronstang]

Take all your parts to a automotive machine shop and have them hot tank them to remove all rust, oil, and gunk. It is not too expensive and the will be so clean you will be able to get a good idea of the condition of everything. You will never get the parts clean enough at home.

 

[Pootiestang]

how long does that process usually take?

 

[LMan]

takes several hours to boil a block, usually. A shop should have it back to you in a day or two. Only thing to be really concerned about is rust pitting/damage to the crank journals, rod journals, cylinder walls, lifter holes, etc. If they exist and are too deep to be ground down, they are ruined and different ones will be required.

Heads are always cruddy with carbon, oil shellac, etc. Usually not a problem.

Other items, like the cam, oil pump, timing set, etc are throwaways anyhow, so nothing lost there.

 

[allcarfan]

pootiestang...I am in GA. I can bead blast all of those parts so they end up looking like new for you. I wont blast a crank though. You would probably want that turned anyway. If the pieces are anything other than aluminum....unless you paint them, clear them, or have them coated (see sig), they are going to continue to rust. You can have them blasted and just clear them with an aerosol can and you will be ok.

The block, however, I suggest you have magnafluxed/hot tanked. This will clean the block and the machine shop will be able to check for cracks.

Send me a PM if you need any help.

 

[Pootiestang]

pootiestang...I am in GA. I can bead blast all of those parts so they end up looking like new for you. I wont blast a crank though. You would probably want that turned anyway. If the pieces are anything other than aluminum....unless you paint them, clear them, or have them coated (see sig), they are going to continue to rust. You can have them blasted and just clear them with an aerosol can and you will be ok.

The block, however, I suggest you have magnafluxed/hot tanked. This will clean the block and the machine shop will be able to check for cracks.

Send me a PM if you need any help.

If only I had run into you earlier! Im currently in Illinois where I am doing my build up but other wise I would have plenty of stuff for ya . Im hoping to blast my jeep body, chassis, hood, fenders, tailgate, etc etc so I will have lots of questions and need advice in that area.

Tomorow I am hoping to go to Napa and see what they can do for me. I will take the block, heads, intake, carb and maybe the pistons and stuff too. I may just order a new rotating assembly and put it in the block and stuff if its salvagable. Any idea on the costs of the hot tanking and inspection?


How easy would it to build up the 289 at home if I had the tools, a stand, and a small block rebuild book? I have 3 months to build the engine, and the Jeep so I dont have too much time to waste. thanks!

 

[allcarfan]

if you want to rebuild yourself, get new parts and it ALMOST snaps back together! You will need some specialty tools though. Most shops will do a hot tank and magnaflux for about $50...of course, those are ga prices though.

 

[Pootiestang]

What are some good guides to purchase? I have "How to rebuild small block ford engines" by Tom Monroe but it seems a bit on the old side so I am not sure what lubricants and products I can use to substitute for his recomendations, although I assume it would be harder to find a newer rebuild book for a 289.

I have been looking around in Jegs, Summit, and JC whitney but still dont know where too look to buy 289 parts at a good price.

If I get a stand, a torque wrench, and have a basic tool box what else would I need?