Engine let go; need recommendations

[Flghtmstr1]

Hey guys, it's been a very long time since I've posted here, but I need your help. I've had my Tork Tech intercooled kit installed for a little over a year and a half now, and today on my morning commute, the dreaded noise of rod knock reared its ugly head.

So, in short, I'd like to hear recommendations. Car & engine have 92k miles. I'd like to upgrade, and I'd like to reuse the Tork Tech kit with whatever I end up doing. I don't have a hard & fast budget, but I'd say under 10k would be ideal. I am mechanically inclined (I installed everything in my signature either by myself or with a friend) but have never done an engine rebuild / swap. I wouldn't be averse to the idea of having a shop do some of the work if that would make more sense.

Other than that, the sky is the limit. The only other consideration is that I'd like the setup to be reliable and easy to drive, as it will continue to be my daily driver. So no wild cams or anything

My fuel system is currently pretty much maxed out (SVT Focus pump in stock tank), so recommendations on that would be helpful as well.

If you help me, I promise I'll stick around

Thanks!

 

[Night Shifter]

MMR shortblock and get your heads ported.. make sure nothing in the heads got damaged in the blowup before you stick them back on a nice fresh block

 

[Flghtmstr1]

MMR shortblock and get your heads ported.. make sure nothing in the heads got damaged in the blowup before you stick them back on a nice fresh block

Those are the lines I'm thinking along. Their prices are pretty reasonable IMO. Do you think the stock ported heads would be sufficient? The TrickFlow heads are tempting...

Also, 4.6L or 5.4L? 2V or 4V? It might be out of my price range, but an aluminum 4V 5.4L would be awesome.

 

[Midnight2V]

You can get a boss 5.0 block for $850 now. If you are doing a built short block, that block plus a set of 3.70" notched pistons and stroker rotating assembly wil be a great foundation for anything else you want to do.

 

[Night Shifter]

could be wrong but when i was looking into the mmr block i think they were aluminum? or maybe there was the option of getting it in aluminum. ported stock heads flow great. mine were ported and there was a huge difference but if you can afford the trickflows id say go that route and dont look back

 

[Flghtmstr1]

You can get a boss 5.0 block for $850 now. If you are doing a built short block, that block plus a set of 3.70" notched pistons and stroker rotating assembly wil be a great foundation for anything else you want to do.

That might be something to look into. Although I thought I remembered the "general consensus" being that a 5.0 stroker doesn't actually make any more power than a 4.6. I guess the Boss 5.0 block is different though, since the bore is larger. Do you have any info on this?

could be wrong but when i was looking into the mmr block i think they were aluminum? or maybe there was the option of getting it in aluminum. ported stock heads flow great. mine were ported and there was a huge difference but if you can afford the trickflows id say go that route and dont look back

MMR offers their shortblocks in iron or aluminum (for $300 more). I figured that with the supercharger and such hanging over the front wheels, I should get as much weight off the front of the car as possible.

 

[Midnight2V]

boss 5.0 is compacted graphite iron, ready for up to 1600 HP and uses a 3.70" (94mm) bore. With a 3.75" it makes 323CID and will beat a 5.4 accross the entire RPM range. It can use any 2V or 4V head. On a stock stroke setup it makes 305CID. If you want to get exotic and use a Lunatti destroker crank, you make 289CID. How's that for iconic?

On top of all that, you get the ability to install much bigger valves. if you stay with stock sizes, you get the unshrouding effect on 2V heads allowing them to flow better than a stockk bore.

Not a bad deal at all considering all the bonuses that come with the bigger bore.

 

[Night Shifter]

i honsetly think they have some pre built aluminum setups on ebay for 2100

 

[LaserSVT]

There are complete 03/04 Cobra engines listed around here from time to time for $4000-$6000 with all needed items and under 30k miles. Just a thought.

If it were me I would source a Teksid block, 96-04 Cobra crank, TF 2V heads so you can keep your blower, rods and pistons of choice and call it a day, Should be under $5000 and you have a block good for 2000hp and a crank that can handle 1200 hp. Can run the blower kit for all its worth then realize you want a twin screw upgrade.

 

[Flghtmstr1]

Thanks for the suggestions, guys. Now that I've thought about it a bit, I would like to just get the Mustang back on the street as cheaply as possible. Does anyone know of a good engine builder / machine shop in the Philadelphia area?

 

[S&B]

cheaply?

just source another 2v motor and swap everything over and drop it in.

 

[TeufelGt]

MMR! Once my motor goes i'm going that direction with TF heads and UP THE BOOST. Just a thought.

 

[tank_567]

boss 5.0 is compacted graphite iron, ready for up to 1600 HP and uses a 3.70" (94mm) bore. With a 3.75" it makes 323CID and will beat a 5.4 accross the entire RPM range. It can use any 2V or 4V head. On a stock stroke setup it makes 305CID. If you want to get exotic and use a Lunatti destroker crank, you make 289CID. How's that for iconic?

On top of all that, you get the ability to install much bigger valves. if you stay with stock sizes, you get the unshrouding effect on 2V heads allowing them to flow better than a stockk bore.

Not a bad deal at all considering all the bonuses that come with the bigger bore.

+1 on that.

 

[Flghtmstr1]

I'm wondering if it might just be better to take the blower off the car, sell it separately, drop a junkyard PI 4.6L in there, sell my car, and buy a Terminator. It would cost about the same as building an engine, but would get me a nicer car with better resale value. On the other hand, I have a lot of blood, sweat, and tears in my car right now (well, maybe not tears, but definitely blood and sweat!).

I guess I really have to do some soul-searching and decide what to do. I bought a black 2000 Miata in the interim to get me around, and I really love it, to the point where I barely even miss the Mustang now. I never felt I would feel that way, let alone say it. But with my commute, there's never a chance to use the Mustang's power anyway, and the Miata is fun to drive with the top down even when sitting in traffic, whereas the Mustang is somewhat boring in the same situation. I suppose I could keep the Miata for commuting and autox, and build the Mustang into a straight-line terror, but I was always keen on the idea of a balanced approach that would improve every aspect of the Mustang's dynamic performance. It already has a decent street suspension, good brakes, and built drivetrain. The automatic transmission is perfect for drag racing, but not so good if I want to try road racing.

So I guess I'm at a crossroads, and I don't know which direction to go. Has anyone ever been in a similar situation? What would you all recommend doing?

 

[Flghtmstr1]

Okay, so I have some good news. While I was driving the Mustang to the shop that was going to let me do the work, the knocking noise got better, and almost disappeared entirely. Obviously, a spun bearing or rod knock would not do this, so I started investigating.

As it turns out, the engine's fine. The knocking noise was the result of a bad bearing in one of the idlers for the supercharger drive belt. If I run the engine with the supercharger drive belt removed, the knocking goes away.

I think I need to get some gauges to monitor the engine's vitals. I don't like the look of aftermarket gauges in our cars, and prefer a clean, "sleeper" look. However, now that the car is supercharged, it's probably a good idea to be able to know what's going on. For example, if I had an oil pressure gauge, I would have known instantly whether the knocking were the result of a spun bearing or not. I'm thinking I'll do oil pressure, wideband afr, and boost / vacuum.

I just wanted to post this update so that nobody is discouraged from adding forced induction to their Mustang. My 4.6L 2v is still going strong at 92k miles, the last 25k with boost!

 

[ADRENLN]

glad everything turned out alright. however, if you are ever at the crossroads again and want to know if anyone has ever faced the same decision....most likely every gt modded like my car once contemplated the terminator before they said "im just gonna build this one"

 

[Flghtmstr1]

glad everything turned out alright. however, if you are ever at the crossroads again and want to know if anyone has ever faced the same decision....most likely every gt modded like my car once contemplated the terminator before they said "im just gonna build this one"

Thanks Adrenln. The terminator is a great car, and I'd love to own one, but in reality, I'd end up losing my shirt if I upgraded. Plus, the GT is somewhat of a "sleeper," since they were relatively slow from the factory (compared to modern-day vehicles), and that appeals to me. But the biggest factor is that I have put so much time, effort, thought, and customization into my Mustang that I would probably regret selling it regardless of what I replaced it with. Over the years, I have transformed it from "just another Mustang" into my Mustang, and there isn't another one exactly like it on the road.

 

[CobraRed_96_GT]

Thanks Adrenln. The terminator is a great car, and I'd love to own one, but in reality, I'd end up losing my shirt if I upgraded. Plus, the GT is somewhat of a "sleeper," since they were relatively slow from the factory (compared to modern-day vehicles), and that appeals to me. But the biggest factor is that I have put so much time, effort, thought, and customization into my Mustang that I would probably regret selling it regardless of what I replaced it with. Over the years, I have transformed it from "just another Mustang" into my Mustang, and there isn't another one exactly like it on the road.

Def get some gauges in there to monitor oil/fuel pressure and AFR. Being boosted on a stock shortblock w/out them is unadvised.

 

[sneaky98gt]

That's great news! I've always liked your car and setup. If I had a PI motor, I would definitely go with the Tork Tech stuff, either their entire kit, or the adapter for the Eaton off a Cobra/Lightning.

Yea, gauges would be a good idea. I agree with your thoughts, plus also a fuel pressure gauge. That is definitely a nice diagnostic gauge to have.