Build Thread Enola- Finishing touches

#241
Problems

-gas pedal is very heavy gonna see if a helper spring will lighten it up.
-above 1k rpm idle she is lean below 1k she is rich.... wtf, checked the ect sensor got proper voltage cold and .6 at operating temp. Set tps
-the idle slowly climbs to 1200-1400 when I lift off the clutch pedal I have no idea why, plz help. Clutch pushed in it will idle 800-900.
-need to put more fuel pressure in it but can't cause of the idle afr.... this is getting ridiculous.

I'm starting to think that the tune was burned wrong. Would not surprise me. I would like to pill the chip but then I would need another maf the one I have is a lightning maf and it is calibrated in the chip.
 

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#242
How big is your bypass valve? Any idea on what kind of cfm the blower is moving at idle? The thinking here is too much air pushing past the throttle blade at idle??
I think the dual throttle bodies are going to cause a huge headache trying to get the car to run properly. FWIW, the last twin blower car we built used two 80mm throttle bodies and we spent countless amounts of hours adjusting the linkages and playing with the tip in fuel map
 
#243
Bypass is 2".. vacuum actuated. I think the issue may be that I don't have the neutral sensing switch hooked up on the Trans car was originally a aod.

As far as cfm... it's an m90 off a super coupe oval mouth, I have 2.7:1 drive ratio. Idle is roughly 900rpm.... there is a chart somewhere but it's a pain to find.
I clocked the maf back to the top position it was tipped in tward a bend that helped some.
I got the linkage worked out, the upstream tb is open farther than the plenum tb. When I hit wot I have both open fully. No problems so far. Only complaint is a stiff pedal.

I replaced the starter today, what a pita longtubes!

Recalibration done on the wide band will do some more testing tomorrow.
 
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#244
Car is running hot.... very hot. Went and got gas on the way home did some wot pulls. Drove maybe 6 miles, by the time I got home she was 230*!!!! The temp just slowly creeps up the entire drive....
Idles good until she hits 200-210, once she gets that hot it dumps a lot of fuel.
 
#245
Mishimoto dual fans with shroud.... 1800cfm!!!:eek: that's it??? That's nothing! There is likely my overheating problem!

Found in the shed on a back shelf covered in two inches of dust.... a mark viii fan! It even has the black plug on the motor wich means it should be a two speed fan, as soon as it stops raining I will find out!
 
#246
The mark viii fan works great! It even has the Canadian motor on it.
So my plan for getting engine Temps down are as follows.

-replace crappy dual fans with the mark viii
-move ect sensor to back of intake to make room for my thermostatic controller probe. This will trigger the fan on high, 5k cfm!
-my flaps for the radiator are missing ( the ones on the sides that help box it in) I will make new ones from some rubber matting I have.
-add two bottles of water wetter..... not sure if this stuff works but it's worth a try.

Is there any downside to having the fans run on low all the time? Or is this a bad idea?
 
#247
Okay so I've decided to start the mark 8 fan install, I went down and got two 40 amp relays wired them in parallel. Used 8 gauge wire to feed the relays and a 60 amp fuse. Also using 8 gauge wire to feed the fan and for the ground. Now I have to figure out how to put on the thermostatic controller it will ground the relays when engine temps reach 180 degrees. I was thinking maybe welding a bung into a piece of pipe and cutting that into the radiator hose, auto zone sells a thermostat housing with a removable plug in it, I may just grab that up and use it.

There are a lot of miata guys running dual throttle bodies on supercharged applications like mine, I read thru some of there sites and got some great info. Looks like I need to drill a hole in the tb blade (the one before the blower) and keep stepping up the size of the hole until there is no vacuum in the intercooler.. luckily I can tap in for vacuum measurements at the plenum tb where the valve cover used to attach. Supposedly this will give me great idle quality and snappy throttle response. I will post up picks of the new fan install when it is done.
I can't wait to get this thing on the road, and down for a dyno day. About the time I get all this sorted out I'll have the funds for bigger injectors and a standalone.... figures. I'm still under $1000 For the whole build though.:D
 
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#248
a91what said:
Okay so I've decided to start the mark 8 fan install, I went down and got two 40 amp relays wired them in parallel. Used 8 gauge wire to feed the relays and a 60 amp fuse. Also using 8 gauge wire to feed the fan and for the ground. Now I have to figure out how to put on the thermostatic controller it will ground the relays when engine temps reach 180 degrees. I was thinking maybe welding a bung into a piece of pipe and cutting that into the radiator hose, auto zone sells a thermostat housing with a removable plug in it, I may just grab that up and use it.

There are a lot of miata guys running dual throttle bodies on supercharged applications like mine, I read thru some of there sites and got some great info. Looks like I need to drill a hole in the tb blade (the one before the blower) and keep stepping up the size of the hole until there is no vacuum in the intercooler.. luckily I can tap in for vacuum measurements at the plenum tb where the valve cover used to attach. Supposedly this will give me great idle quality and snappy throttle response. I will post up picks of the new fan install when it is done.
I can't wait to get this thing on the road, and down for a dyno day. About the time I get all this sorted out I'll have the funds for bigger injectors and a standalone.... figures. I'm still under $1000 For the whole build though.:D
Click to expand...


Try and find a speed control. You electronic systems will thank you.

What alt are you running?
 
#251
The car runs drives and idles much better! Plenty of power losses the tires thru second gear when you roll into it. 275/40r17 nitto555. 3.73 gears. 2nd is very short now. So is 3rd.

I'm seeing 11.2-12.1 afr when in boost. The boost varies between pulls tho may need a smaller belt, or more belt wrap but I don't see an easy way to add another pulley. I may go get a turbo coupe pcv valve that may help.
What do you guys think of the out come of the fan?
1443740417436-195345615.jpg
now it never gets above 195 even on back to back pulls. Also put the rubber flaps back on that go next to the radiator I stapled some extra rubber matting to them to get more coverage. That fan moves enough air to pull in small children.:D
 
#254
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#255
:chinOK now I'm hooked on boost. I need some ideas on how to get more out of the setup, I can't spin it any harder than I already am.... so I think less restrictions before the blower should help, only problem is the extra tb and piping to the maf....

I think I have a disease, a boost related one.
 
#256
:nonono: got a noise coming from the engine bay on my way back from the store today. It sort of sounds like a tap and kinda like a knock... I'm not sure. :fuss: I am going to pull the valve covers off and investigate, I did install an adjustable valve train. Being my first time with this setup I'm hoping it's a loose rocker, but it is pretty loud.

If it is rod knock what would I notice? A drop in oil pressure? :shrug:
Fwiw I have 55-60 lbs of oil pressure all the time it never goes below 55lbs.
 
#257
For those that have been following things are not good.
Found #7 cylinder dead, bad plug wires replaced with new wire car ran fine no knock, changed the oil didnt see any metal.
Car ran great for a few miles no issues, did a few wot pulls again no problems. After a few more miles the tap/tick/knock came back this time slowly then getting louder. By the time I started to get near the house the car was shuttering around 2500rpm and above.
It never ran hot, afr looked good, base timing is at 10*, 6psi.
I'm hoping it's under the valve covers, I can here the noise under the car tho. I have ruled out rod knock due to the fact it came went then came back. Maybe a bad injector causing the knock, I will try the dead cylinder test by removing the plugs one at a time.
I think I may have broken a piston, the shuttering worries me.
 
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