I have very limited knowledge here, so I won't be of much help. I do know that I'll be running very little timing once we do get it going based on some input from a guy with a very successful TT351w
Build Thread Enola- Finishing touches
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- Dec 19, 2010
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I wish I could offer more advice on timing, but I'm really at a point where I need to learn boost tuning, and have nothing to offer in that regard. I used to be able to tell you off the top of my head exactly how much timing to pull per 50hp of nitrous, but it's been so many years that's escaped me now. I know there is a rule of thumb on advance per kpa/rpm, I just don't know it. 
Sorry bud.
PS: When the guys that tuned my car did it, they tweaked the fuel tables to where they wanted them, and then bumped the timing up 2 degrees at a time to get the hp in a range they considered safe for the block and made a pull, all the while listening for detonation. I'm sure at some point if the hp would have fallen off or detonation had occurred they would have come off the timing a little, but it never happened. You do have a completely different animal than I do however, and I'm not thinking they would behave the same way on a dyno...
Sorry bud.
PS: When the guys that tuned my car did it, they tweaked the fuel tables to where they wanted them, and then bumped the timing up 2 degrees at a time to get the hp in a range they considered safe for the block and made a pull, all the while listening for detonation. I'm sure at some point if the hp would have fallen off or detonation had occurred they would have come off the timing a little, but it never happened. You do have a completely different animal than I do however, and I'm not thinking they would behave the same way on a dyno...
OK so..... what you guys are saying is that I need to put the new control arms on her.... then go beat the snot out of her at the track.... and keep the time slips...
OK I think I can swing that.
OK I think I can swing that.
- Dec 19, 2010
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Well I was running about 25 degrees of timing at 9 PSI now I've got a pulled all the way back to 22 degrees of timing at 9 PSI show with a spirited drive around the block I should be able to tell how much power I lost just by a seat-of-the-pants feel. I just figured maybe too much timing was keeping the engine from running freely in the higher RPMs
I'm still voting for dual alternators....
lol I have no helpful knowledge to share about boost/timing/etc
lol I have no helpful knowledge to share about boost/timing/etc
Timing....
I settled on 1* per pound of boost...
what the internet says. my plugs look spectacular.
Tomorrow morning I am making a trip over to a friends house to do the control arms! thank goodness he actually has a garage, I did not want to attempt these out in the yard.
The oil issue... don't buy mr gasket breathers... they leak where the two halves are joined.
I settled on 1* per pound of boost...
what the internet says. my plugs look spectacular.Tomorrow morning I am making a trip over to a friends house to do the control arms! thank goodness he actually has a garage, I did not want to attempt these out in the yard.
The oil issue... don't buy mr gasket breathers... they leak where the two halves are joined.
Hey Steve, bit of a derail here. After spending some time with Mike, he has a very high opinion of you and you really do sound like a nice guy.
CHIT I got you guys fooled!
Don't you guys worry there will come a time when I feel the need to "voice my opinion"
I'm sure you know this, but just in case - only pull one upper off at a time. It's a mofo to line them up if you pull both. I've done it and can attest, haha
- Dec 19, 2010
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Every engine is different. When it comes to boost/timing it can vary a lot. Pump gas likes one thing and race fuel requires something else. Here is where a chassis dyno or a day at the race track can really help. With the mixture on the lean side, the timing gets real critical. A fatter A/F can dampen timing errors. Start with an 11:1 A/F and a base timing of 20* and go from there. You add one degree at a time and stop when hp stops improving, and then back off one degree. Reading spark plugs can help tune in the A/F.. what your engine likes may be completly different than what a simular engine may like. Give your engine what it wants, not what someone eles engine has.
Control arms are done. PITA. Car sits much lower after we removed the spring isolators. The rear was sitting on the snubbed so that was removed as well.
That sits crazy low. How's it drive? Whats you're wheel/tire combo? I'd cut my tires on my wells if I sat that low.
Drives amazing. Real smooth.
We did new shocks while we were in there, nothing wrong with the ones we pulled out but we already had it apart anyway.
Wheel is a cobra replica 4lug 17"
Nitto 555 275/40 zr17
Oh and on my drive home it was raining, not sure if it's all in my head or not but the car "feels" much more stable a lot less walk around in the back. The stock arms had a very nice set of energy suspension polyurethane bushings in it when it's dry and I can put my foot past 25% I'll let you know if there is any significant change.
Thanks
I take pictures that hide all my paint flaws. Lol I did show a very low level of F. u .c k it when I painted it outside in the yard. 100$ paint job FTW!
Posts like these make me regret a 315 tire. I need to tub damn it. My car handles like a hippo on ice skates.