few questions, motor related.

[ryan218]

i bought a cam for my car. its steeda # 19 cam. read some on it and its somewhat of a mild cam which is what i want. now i want to throw some heads on it at the same time so that what im waiting on. not sure what heads i want yet i will be sticking with 1.6 RR though.

gt40's or gt40p's from what ive read this cam is good for boost.

should idle like stock but have a mild lope to it

here are the cam spec's.

Steeda #19 - 220*/226* - 280*/286* - .480"/.480" - 115* - 2,300-6,000 RPM

1.6 Roller Rockers (.006")
Intake Opening: 26* BTDC
Intake Closing: 74* ABDC
Exhaust Opening: 79* BBDC
Exhaust Closing: 27* ATDC

Recommended Valve Springs:
110lbs closed/312 lbs open

more so looking like gt40p heads is what ill use because for the life of me i can not find a set of gt40 irons anywhere local.

or should i just save up for a little longer and get a different set of heads? plan is for an S-trim next year so thats what im building a combo around.

 

[85_SS_302_Coupe]

Either head is decent. It's really splitting hairs saying one is better than the other. The biggest issue is the header thing with the P's. That is a pretty mild cam but it should make great torque with GT40s.

 

[strtrcr50]

The only thing about getting the gt40/gt40p's is in most cases people get them used. Then take them to the machine shop and drop some coin in getting them rebuild, spring upgrade and ported. After all is said and done, they have spent within a few hundred of an aluminum head.. Food for thought.
As far as getting a different head, I am partial to trick flow..

 

[50foxbody]

i got gt40's on my car bought them used never made it to the machine shop with them cuz i had no money but they are really good heads! personaly thats what i would go get

 

[85_SS_302_Coupe]

If you're on a tight budget, just spend what cash you have on better springs. Unless you got the heads off a super high mileage Explorer, you shouldn't have to worry about the guides or seals being worn too bad. Besides, it's unlikely that you'll put 100k miles on used heads before you end up buying some aluminum heads or something better.

 

[ryan218]

well i know of some new in the box bare gt40p heads for 275. either way i would have to buy new springs and rockers for them. so maybe that would be a good way to go? that or just port the hell out of my E7 heads and slap that together for a while, was also thinking of of how grey50beast used the patriot heads and was wondering about them heads as well.

i want to see around 270 rwhp all motor. so thats the combo im shoting for. then around 400 with boost.

 

[ryan218]

RPM Michael's Naturally Aspirated '95 GT
with stock cam! No. 19 Cam
Power Torque Power Torque Power
2,250 105.7 246.7 104.9 245.0 n/a
2,500 119.3 250.7 120.2 252.6 n/a
2,750 131.5 251.1 130.0 248.4 n/a
3,000 149.5 261.7 151.9 265.9 n/a
3,250 170.6 275.7 175.0 282.8 n/a
3,500 188.5 282.9 193.1 289.8 n/a
3,750 204.0 285.7 210.6 295.0 n/a
4,000 219.5 288.3 228.6 300.1 n/a
4,250 233.2 288.2 242.2 299.4 n/a
4,500 240.2 280.4 250.5 292.3 n/a
4,750 246.7 272.8 259.5 286.9 n/a
5,000 249.9 262.5 266.4 279.9 n/a
5,250 251.7 251.8 269.2 269.3 n/a
5,500 n/a n/a 270.6 258.4 n/a
5,750 n/a n/a 266.6 243.5 n/a
6,000 n/a n/a 253.6 221.9 n/a

only change in his car was the steeda cam.

Michael's 95 GT features a 105,000-mile stock short-block; unported GT-40P heads with stock valves; an unported Cobra intake; a stock 60mm throttle body; a 75mm Pro-M bullet mass air; MAC P-head-specific short-tube headers, a MAC off-road X-pipe; and a stuffy, stock after-cat. The five-speed car has 3.73 gearing and a Ford Racing Performance Parts Extender to help tune the stock computer a bit. Before the cam change, the GT was good for consistent 14.00s at around 101 mph, with a best e.t. of 13.90 at 101.16 mph (at 3,640 pounds with driver). After the addition of the Steeda No. 19 cam, the Paul's Automotive Engineering chassis dyno registered 270 rwhp and 300 rwtq with the Extender on the No. 8 setting (12.25:1 air/fuel ratio, which was measured as actual air/fuel of 12.36:1). At the track, the car ran a best e.t. of 13.57 at 102.84 mph, with a 2.02 60-foot time on street tires.

that was with stock catback? no idea why he didnt change that to an aftermarket one but who knows. :sctratch:


making max power at 5,500 for 270 rwhp (mustang dyno) and 301 rwtq at 4,000

i think id have no problem at making 260rwhp with my aod?

 

[90lxcoupe]

both gt40 and gt40 p heads are made of cast iron, if it was me i would save a little more money and get a set of gt40x heads, will save weight and you can pick up a pair of assembled heads for like 900 bucks.

the x's are a good head, made 265rwhp NA for me with a 302, e-cam, and a RPM II. and on the same setup with a novi 2K it made 480 rwhp

 

[90lxcoupe]

RPM Michael's Naturally Aspirated '95 GT
with stock cam! No. 19 Cam
Power Torque Power Torque Power
2,250 105.7 246.7 104.9 245.0 n/a
2,500 119.3 250.7 120.2 252.6 n/a
2,750 131.5 251.1 130.0 248.4 n/a
3,000 149.5 261.7 151.9 265.9 n/a
3,250 170.6 275.7 175.0 282.8 n/a
3,500 188.5 282.9 193.1 289.8 n/a
3,750 204.0 285.7 210.6 295.0 n/a
4,000 219.5 288.3 228.6 300.1 n/a
4,250 233.2 288.2 242.2 299.4 n/a
4,500 240.2 280.4 250.5 292.3 n/a
4,750 246.7 272.8 259.5 286.9 n/a
5,000 249.9 262.5 266.4 279.9 n/a
5,250 251.7 251.8 269.2 269.3 n/a
5,500 n/a n/a 270.6 258.4 n/a
5,750 n/a n/a 266.6 243.5 n/a
6,000 n/a n/a 253.6 221.9 n/a

only change in his car was the steeda cam.

Michael's 95 GT features a 105,000-mile stock short-block; unported GT-40P heads with stock valves; an unported Cobra intake; a stock 60mm throttle body; a 75mm Pro-M bullet mass air; MAC P-head-specific short-tube headers, a MAC off-road X-pipe; and a stuffy, stock after-cat. The five-speed car has 3.73 gearing and a Ford Racing Performance Parts Extender to help tune the stock computer a bit. Before the cam change, the GT was good for consistent 14.00s at around 101 mph, with a best e.t. of 13.90 at 101.16 mph (at 3,640 pounds with driver). After the addition of the Steeda No. 19 cam, the Paul's Automotive Engineering chassis dyno registered 270 rwhp and 300 rwtq with the Extender on the No. 8 setting (12.25:1 air/fuel ratio, which was measured as actual air/fuel of 12.36:1). At the track, the car ran a best e.t. of 13.57 at 102.84 mph, with a 2.02 60-foot time on street tires.

that was with stock catback? no idea why he didnt change that to an aftermarket one but who knows. :sctratch:


making max power at 5,500 for 270 rwhp (mustang dyno) and 301 rwtq at 4,000

i think id have no problem at making 260rwhp with my aod?

I think those numbers are total BS, no way he made 270 with unported p's, cobra intake, and a stock TB and aftercat.


Also i think that your power goals may be unrealistic with those heads and an AOD. Mabye if you get a day with really good air you will have a shot, but the dyno is a funny thing. dont get hung up on the numbers, I dynoed my car one night and i made 388 RWHP, we changed the DIST, dynoed it two nights lated and it lost 20 HP.

BUT, it didnt really loose 20 HP, there was relativly low humidity, and it was cool on the first night, and on the second night it was super humid, only difference.

The real reason to dyno the car is to make sure that its not gonna blow up on you when your driving down the road.

 

[ryan218]

I think those numbers are total BS, no way he made 270 with unported p's, cobra intake, and a stock TB and aftercat.


Also i think that your power goals may be unrealistic with those heads and an AOD. Mabye if you get a day with really good air you will have a shot, but the dyno is a funny thing. dont get hung up on the numbers, I dynoed my car one night and i made 388 RWHP, we changed the DIST, dynoed it two nights lated and it lost 20 HP.

BUT, it didnt really loose 20 HP, there was relativly low humidity, and it was cool on the first night, and on the second night it was super humid, only difference.

The real reason to dyno the car is to make sure that its not gonna blow up on you when your driving down the road.

got all that info from mustang 5.0 magizne

 

[85_SS_302_Coupe]

The thing you need to think about Ryan is what you're total cost is gonna be. If it's anywhere near $600 and you CAN'T spend a few hundred more than that, you might wanna get a hold of Thumper and get some of his ported E7s, since they'll be fresh with good springs and ready to rock for around $600. The thing is though, if you get about $800 ready and sit on it, you know there's always nice heads popping up on 'bangerz. One guy just sold some sick Dart Pro 1 heads for $800, and i almost bought some ported Windsor Sr's that were flow bench certified 320cfm at .600 lift for $700. I've got $740 into my 351 heads....just don't blow your money on crap and be patient and you can find sweet heads for a good price IF you have cash in hand and can grab them before anyone else does.

 

[stykthyn]

if you can send thumper a set of complete gt40s he will send you a ported set with new springs for 640. while the flow may be on par with other heads that is still within 2-300 of brand new aluminums.

 

[ryan218]

The thing you need to think about Ryan is what you're total cost is gonna be. If it's anywhere near $600 and you CAN'T spend a few hundred more than that, you might wanna get a hold of Thumper and get some of his ported E7s, since they'll be fresh with good springs and ready to rock for around $600. The thing is though, if you get about $800 ready and sit on it, you know there's always nice heads popping up on 'bangerz. One guy just sold some sick Dart Pro 1 heads for $800, and i almost bought some ported Windsor Sr's that were flow bench certified 320cfm at .600 lift for $700. I've got $740 into my 351 heads....just don't blow your money on crap and be patient and you can find sweet heads for a good price IF you have cash in hand and can grab them before anyone else does.

if you can send thumper a set of complete gt40s he will send you a ported set with new springs for 640. while the flow may be on par with other heads that is still within 2-300 of brand new aluminums.

yeah, like i said. im in no hurry and thats what i plan to do. i just dont feel like spending a grand on a set of heads when i have less then 2,800 into my whole car kinda blows my budget build out lol.

 

[85_SS_302_Coupe]

Well, you'll spend money where it counts...that's the idea. Heads are up there with paint as one of the most expensive parts you'll buy for a car until you buy a supercharger or turbo or stroker.

 

[stykthyn]

I'm with 85. if your goal is to build a car using stock parts then by all means, go with the cobra heads. if not then there is no good reason not to go with a better aftermarket head that will out of the box flow just as well if not better than ported irons. if your end goal is boost then the more you can flow the better you will be. compared to some of the aluminum heads out there gt40's are just downright restrictive.
you can build fast and reliable or fast and cheap, but you cant have both

 

[85_SS_302_Coupe]

See for me, the problem was coming up with all the cash at one time...i just didn't have the budget for it and for me saving money is next to impossible so i went with the ported irons. The bonus for mine is that now that i have dyno numbers to back up the port work i can probably sell them for a decent amount and put a few hundred with that cash and buy aluminum.

This crap gets expensive doing things more than once.

 

[stykthyn]

at this point, if it were me, I would start building another motor on the side at this point. drive the stock one and just swap when its done. a boost motor has completely different needs than a N/A one. if you want to get the most out of the s-trim without re-doing a lot of the work that went into your motor. I would just leave it alone. save the coin for the end product.

 

[ryan218]

at this point, if it were me, I would start building another motor on the side at this point. drive the stock one and just swap when its done. a boost motor has completely different needs than a N/A one. if you want to get the most out of the s-trim without re-doing a lot of the work that went into your motor. I would just leave it alone. save the coin for the end product.

thought has crossed my mind. i still have a 331 stroker kit i got for next to nothing in storage. but i know with my palns of boost the stroker would need a not stock block.

 

[85_SS_302_Coupe]

thought has crossed my mind. i still have a 331 stroker kit i got for next to nothing in storage. but i know with my palns of boost the stroker would need a not stock block.

Or you could look at it like having a 331 means you won't need as much boost to make your power goals.

 

[Mr. Rustypwnz]

ported-milled p heads, degreed stock cam -4, 1.7's, a typhoon intake mani, and all the bolt ons, thats a proven good power maker thats reliable and turns good times..