For those of you that don't use a spring compressor

[JoeDaddy]

How do you do it?! I'm putting back together the front end of my 96 gt coupe after changing ball joints, and I am about at my wits end with trying to get these springs back in. For those of you that saw my other post, one of my springs was broke, so my father in law who works at a scrap yard found a replacement for me that he said was out of the same year car of mine. I then rented a spring compessor from auto zone to get the thing back in.. After about 2 and a half hours I finnaly had the thing in there, got everything bolted back togeher, with a big ol smile on, and wouldntcha know it, the spring compressor was SUPER stuck in the coils, becasue of course now the spring is compressed on its own. After about an hour and a half today of trying to get the spring compressor out, I said F this and proceded to take the spring back out.
I put a jack under the control arm and removed the bolts for the strut from the steering knuckle, and when I got the 2nd bolt out the car probably raised up about 8" from the spring pressure releasing.
So, after all that my question is, is that normal for the car to raise way up like when the strut and control arm arent bolted together, and then my second question is how do you bolt the strut and control arm together if you dont use a spring compressor? If I jack the control arm up, the whole car goes up!

Anyways, after all that I think I'm just going to opt for lowering springs if I can't get the stock ones back in. Will lowering springs go in easier then the stockers? (Since they are shorter I assume) Or are they just as bad because it takes more to compress them?



What is the difference between these:
Summit Racing SUM-720100 - Summit Racing® Lowering Spring Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com
and these:
Ford Racing M-5300-F - Ford Racing Lowering Spring Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com
and these:
Ford Racing M-5300-C - Ford Racing Lowering Spring Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com

This car is my summer DD, and I would want the ones that have the best ride over ones that can go around corners faster.

Sorry for the book... Thanks for any help you all can provide.

 

[nyuk98gt]

JoeDaddy:

I don't know about the Summit springs. Call and ask them for more details, if interested.

Ford Racing (FRPP) F springs are progressive so they will give you a slightly softer, more compliant ride.

FRPP C springs are single rate in the front, progressive in the rear.

Expect more of a drop with C springs. Most Mustangers choose the C springs.

For the front springs, you should use a spring compressor and run a chain through the lower control arm and the spring. There is a lot of potential energy in a spring, even slightly compressed, and it is enough to maim you. I am not a Nervous Nelly but you must use a lot of caution when installing or removing springs.

Did you remove the tie-rod ends? AutoZone rents a c-shaped remover that allows you to press the tie-rod end out so the boot doesn't get torn up. You can use a "pickle fork" but be prepared to replace the boot. The cave man method is to just beat the tie-rod end out with a hammer. Not very elegant, imho. Once the tie-rod ends are disconnected, the control arm(s) to drop down enough to get the spring(s) installed. Put the floor jack under the control arm and then you can raise the arm/compress the spring enough to get the strut nuts installed.

The compressor that I got from A/Z consisted of a threaded rod with two 'hook bars'. The whole thing slipped up the center of the spring. The hook bars are flexible and pivot on the rod so you can get them under and over the coils. Tighten the rod and the hook bars are drawn together, compressing the spring. Worked like a charm.

HTH,

Chris

 

[JoeDaddy]

Now with the C springs, is my ride quality going to suffer much? I always liked the ride quality of the mustang. I spose that if this is the way most go, I might as well jump on board too.

This whole project started as the front end was squeaking like crazy, so I was going to change the ball joints, and it has kind of spiraled out of control from there. As of now, I have new (moog) ball joint and tie rod ends, new shocks and struts, (Strange Engineering S6005LM - Strange Externally Adjustable Mustang Struts - Overview - SummitRacing.com) , and new rubbers for the front springs. Which reminds me, these springs will work with the new struts? The struts say "for stock susspensions", which I assume means non coil over, and not non lowered?

As for what I have done, I removed the tie rod ends the cave man method as I have new. The spring compressor I got from auto zone has hooks on the top, and a plate that goes on the bottom. I could get the spring in the car where it goes, and then I had to compress it with the spring compressor more to get the bolts for the steering knuckle to line up with the strut. If I jacked the control arm up, the only thing that happened was the whole car would go up.

When I finally got everything bolted up and tourqued and all that, I had to take a 3' pry bar to pry the coils far enough apart to get the hooks off the top of the spring, but then there was no way to get the plate out of the bottom coils. (because the coils were compressed from being in the car.)

This was the spring that my father in law got me, so maybe it is just not correct for the car? When I unbolted the strut from the steering knuckle, like I said before, I bet the car went up about 8" (Because I had the jack under the control arm) and I don't remember that happening when I took everything out the first time.

 

[nyuk98gt]

JoeDaddy:

Shorter springs will firm up the ride a little. The Strange adjustable struts will let you dial in that limousine ride again. If you use the stock struts then the ride will be a bit harsher than stock.

Yes, "stock suspension" struts are non-coil-over type so you bought the correct type of struts. They are high quality pieces, imho.

I think the spring compressor is 'half right' for what you are (were) doing. The plate should be swapped out for lower 'hooks' so that there is nothing to be caught in the coils when you loosen the central rod. You really need to get an appropriate spring compressor for the next work under the car. You cannot have the car sproinging up 8" (LOL!!) when you unbolt stuff. That is a lot of energy and enough to kill. I'm not getting hysterical but springs can surprise you in a bad way.

Chris

 

[JoeDaddy]

Alright, thanks man. I think I'll get some new spings, and then I'll go back to auto zone and get the one with hooks on both ends. I've taken springs out before (on parts cars) but never put them back in, so I just went there hoping they knew what I needed. I know what you mean about all the energy in the springs. This is BY FAR the most dangerous part of this whole project.. I even put on my saftey glasses for a while!

Thanks again for all your help.

 

[Superglide66]

I just purchased a set of a set of F springs which are the same as the Eibach ProKit and actually came in an Eibach box with the Ford part number M-5300-F on the side. Springs are even stamped Eibach with the Pro-Kit part # right on them!

 

[1987stangman]

+1 on the spings warning, my first rodeo with them, which was on my 87' Gt I lowered the A-arm down with a jack and even tho the spring was not touching the a-arm I figured it was fully decompressed and in a rush and like a moron I grabed the spring to pull it out and ended up with a layed open hand. Def remembered that when I did springs in my 96'. I have C springs in my Fox and B's in my 96' and IMO the B's are a better ride. You dont need a spring compressor to install the B or C springs.

 

[nyuk98gt]

JoeDaddy:

Here's a picture of an "internal coil spring compressor" (at Eastwood's site):

Coilspring Compressor Internal

This is the gizmo you want to use.

Chris

 

[JoeDaddy]

Alrighty, after a night of searching thru the old posts while watching elmo with my daughter, I think I'm going to go with the C springs. Seems like there were more recomendations for them over the B springs. Hopefully, with the new shocks and struts, the ride wont change much, and it has been all winter since I've driven the car anyways, so I doubt I will be able to tell much of a difference from the last time I've driven it.

NOW, from searching thru all the lowering threads, I came across CC plates. From what I have read they shouldn't be nessary with the C springs? I really don't want to dump another $200 into this thing right now. Once I order the springs, I'll be into this project a touch over $800, which is way more then I wanted to spend on a simple "lets change the ball joints so this damn thing quits squeaking".

Thanks again for all the advice, I really appreciate it!

 

[JoeDaddy]

This is the spring compressor that the auto zone guy loaned me.
OEM/Coil spring compressor (27035) | Coil Spring Compressor | AutoZone.com

There was NO WAY of removing that plate from the bottom coils. I gave it the college try, and gave up.

 

[johnnyt03gt]

as long as you take ur time. you don't need a spring compresser.
one floor jack under the K-member. one jack stand under each subfram.
2nd floor jack under control arm. it's all about doing it slowly,

2 years ago i've done mine all by myself, i have never installed springs before.
im not going to lie. i was nervous i expected the spring to fly out and take my head off. but i took it slow and everything went good,

but regardless it's always a good idea to use a chain just in case!!!

 

[trombonedemon]

as long as you take ur time. you don't need a spring compresser.
one floor jack under the K-member. one jack stand under each subfram.
2nd floor jack under control arm. it's all about doing it slowly,

2 years ago i've done mine all by myself, i have never installed springs before.
im not going to lie. i was nervous i expected the spring to fly out and take my head off. but i took it slow and everything went good,

but regardless it's always a good idea to use a chain just in case!!!

This^

Dang spring compressor seems dangerous.

 

[JoeDaddy]

Springs came today! Had to work late printing some shirts, so no playing with the mustang tonight. Hopefully I'll get to put them in before the weekend.

 

[1987stangman]

Alrighty, after a night of searching thru the old posts while watching elmo with my daughter, I think I'm going to go with the C springs. Seems like there were more recomendations for them over the B springs. Hopefully, with the new shocks and struts, the ride wont change much, and it has been all winter since I've driven the car anyways, so I doubt I will be able to tell much of a difference from the last time I've driven it.

NOW, from searching thru all the lowering threads, I came across CC plates. From what I have read they shouldn't be nessary with the C springs? I really don't want to dump another $200 into this thing right now. Once I order the springs, I'll be into this project a touch over $800, which is way more then I wanted to spend on a simple "lets change the ball joints so this damn thing quits squeaking".

Thanks again for all the advice, I really appreciate it!

CC plates will help it not wear tires out as quick. It's a good idea. I don;t have them on my 87' GT but I do on my 96'

 

[FordTaurusSHO94]

I didn't use spring compressors either. I did tie the spring to the car with wire though. I just made sure to lower the jack real slow and the springs fell out. They didn't shoot out.

 

[JoeDaddy]

CC plates will help it not wear tires out as quick. It's a good idea. I don;t have them on my 87' GT but I do on my 96'

Yea, thats what I figured. I think I'm going to put it back together without them, and we will see what the alignment guy says.

I didn't use spring compressors either. I did tie the spring to the car with wire though. I just made sure to lower the jack real slow and the springs fell out. They didn't shoot out.

Yea, I got the springs out without a compressor. On my 96, I had to push down on the control arm with my foot, and I carefully pryed it out with a prybar.

I'm hoping the new springs go back in much easier then the stock one I tryed to put in. Hopefully tonight I can get some time to work on it.

 

[nyuk98gt]

JoeDaddy:

The aftermarket springs will go in very easily - no compressor required. They are 1 or 2 inches shorter than the stockers.

Don't forget to get the pigtails in the right position, front and rear.

Chris

 

[JoeDaddy]

Got the front springs back in last night, and almost got it all put back together. Just have to put the brakes back on the drivers side, and change the tie rod ends. (Then on to the back.) I think I've got the springs turned right. I did it as my hanyes manual said, and covered one drain hole, and left the other one visable. And yes, no spring compressor required. Piece of cake! Now I've got to decide if I'm going to pay $10 to ship back the $30 spring compressor I didnt use!

Thanks again everyone for all the input.

 

[1987stangman]

Got the front springs back in last night, and almost got it all put back together. Just have to put the brakes back on the drivers side, and change the tie rod ends. (Then on to the back.) I think I've got the springs turned right. I did it as my hanyes manual said, and covered one drain hole, and left the other one visable. And yes, no spring compressor required. Piece of cake! Now I've got to decide if I'm going to pay $10 to ship back the $30 spring compressor I didnt use!

Thanks again everyone for all the input.

Thats the ticket, easy as pie. The rear is even easier. On my 96' I had my step-son help me and we got it done in 45 min.

One thing I might mention. I did not evn think about, or notice whe i installed my rear springs on my 96'. There is a rubber bump stop thats mounted on the car above the rear diff. I noticed when I was doing my PI engine swap that the rear diff acually rests on the damn thing now. I ended up taking some of the material off of it to clear it. Not sure if others have had this issue, I would assume so. You might want to check it. I never even thought to check it!

 

[FordTaurusSHO94]

I think that's called the pinion snubber.