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Instead of paying for a smog pump delete pulley, take apart the stock air pump and GUT it. Re-grease it and break off those fiberglass blades in the pump, and close it back up. You get a FREE smog pump delete - making it look totally stock and gaining a little free HP by making it a free wheeling pulley - and you can still use the stock belt.
 
TrueBlue95GT said:
Weight reduction!!! :banana: :nice:

For example:
Remove rear seat
Remove Dog bone
Remove trunklining
if vert remove 25lbs fender weight
if gt remove wing
remove front sway bar
Remove front strut tower brace

this stuff should get you better traction and about 100-150lbs (.15sec) of weight reduction plus incress your traction alot (front sway bar)
 
95GTvert[bv12] said:
For example:
Remove rear seat
Remove Dog bone
Remove trunklining
if vert remove 25lbs fender weight
if gt remove wing
remove front sway bar
Remove front strut tower brace

this stuff should get you better traction and about 100-150lbs (.15sec) of weight reduction plus incress your traction alot (front sway bar)

What is the dog bone? Removing the front sway bar, cause any problems for an everyday driver?
 
The dog bone is this useless weight they put on the bottom of our rear ends. It supposedly dampens vibration, but I have noticed no difference. :D With this one, you're going to want to bolt back up the bracket on top of it and u need to buy new bolts so its not "FREE", if you're picky about 50 cents.
 
95GTvert[bv12] said:
this stuff should get you better traction and about 100-150lbs (.15sec) of weight reduction plus incress your traction alot (front sway bar)

I have found this rule of thumb to be WAAAY off.

i get about 1 mph per 50-60 pounds and a mph is more than a 10th
 
Well it all depends on how light your car already is. It's not a linear thing. F=m*a so a=F/m. In other words, to get more acceleration, you either increase force(hp) or decrease mass. For example, say you had a 3800lb vert and you were pushing 300hp and 2500lb coupe making 197hp. They have relatively the same acceleration of .079 (not counting other factors). If you take 100 lbs off of both, you get an acceleration of .081 for the vert and an acceleration of .082 for the coupe. This doesnt sound much, but in physics it is. Sorry for the science lesson. :sleep:
 
TrueBlue95GT said:
Well it all depends on how light your car already is. It's not a linear thing. F=m*a so a=F/m. In other words, to get more acceleration, you either increase force(hp) or decrease mass. For example, say you had a 3800lb vert and you were pushing 300hp and 2500lb coupe making 197hp. They have relatively the same acceleration of .079 (not counting other factors). If you take 100 lbs off of both, you get an acceleration of .081 for the vert and an acceleration of .082 for the coupe. This doesnt sound much, but in physics it is. Sorry for the science lesson. :sleep:


yup, I have tried to explain this to people.....

plus weight reduction as aposed to just having better heads will make your bottom end better and your gas mileage and braking and handling.


if you add power, yes you get faster when you are racing when you gain top end. but when you change the weigh side of the power to weight ratio, you are getting a much stronger feeling in the low end with teh lighter car
 
TrueBlue95GT said:
When I took mine off and weighed it, the scale said 9.2lbs. Not much, but everything counts. It's weight reduction as a whole that you'll notice a difference.

Not only that but it's unsprung weight....which is the worst kind when it comes to hanndling....also for cheap you can move the battery to the truck that will help even with traction