I wanna do a GT500 front clip grill and everything...does anybody have a link to where i can get this set-up and do i have to modify anything or change my stock hood...thanks guys!
GT500 front end question..
- Thread starter BREDn07
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You should be able to get the parts from any ford dealer. Although, some dealers will ask you for a Vin number. The guy that did this write up contacted Kevin Casey with Clevenger Ford.
This is from a post from another forum if you want the link PM me:
· Front Fascia: No modifications are required as long as the complete list of required front fascia parts is used. The front fascia does not interfere with either the Saleen S/C intercooler water pump or heat exchanger. If your base body color is anything except black, you should consider painting the radiator core support below the sight shield, as it will now be seen behind the taller upper GT 500 grille. Flat black does the job nicely and allows the core support to seamlessly fade into the background and not be noticeably visible. Unfortunately Ford does not offer the harness ends for the new GT 500 fog lamps separately. The entire front harness must be purchased. The harness is relatively inexpensive though, and the fog lamp connectors can be installed on the original harness in about 30 minutes including soldering, installing heat shrink and loom for a professional looking job. Replacement fog lamp bulbs are PS24N, per the GT 500 Owner’s Manual Supplement, but Ford’s Parts Dept. cannot identify this trade number. The original GT lower splash shield under the radiator, which mounts to lower valance panel and K-member, still fits with no modifications. The lower valance is shipped matte black (same color as the rocker mouldings and lower diffuser on the rear fascia) and does not require painting. Fascia is shipped primed and must be painted to match. Don’t forget to aim the new headlamps & foglamps.
· Sight Shield: The GT 500 sight shield will fit with no issues once the front fascia has been installed. However, the decal (which is not sold separately) on the GT 500 sight shield, which gives the A/C refrigerant refill capacities, is incorrect for the stock GT. This should be noted if recharging the A/C ever becomes necessary or mistakes can easily be made. I took a label maker and installed a small vinyl decal, with the correct refill capacity, directly over the incorrect refill capacity. Not even noticeable. The other item that should be mentioned is the GT 500 sight shield mounts with 8 rivets where the stock GT sight shield mounts with only 6 rivets. The other 2 rivet holes on the GT 500 sight shield mount to the GT 500 radiator heat shields, which are not be used on the stock GT. This too can be overcome by simply fabricating (2) small “Z” shaped brackets and mounting them to the radiator core support. The sight shield covers them when installed and will not be seen. Then all 8 rivet holes can be used and the installation is complete.
· Rear Fascia: The GT 500 rear fascia has 3 small tabs, which mount to the center of the body of the vehicle. The center tab of the GT 500 fascia is molded differently than the stock GT fascia. However, this is not a problem as the center mounting tab on the GT 500 fascia can be securely mounted to the rear of the body by simply fitting the tab up to the body and drilling a hole in the body and securing with the original rivet. I should also mention I am using Magnaflow 15882 axleback mufflers with the 4” S/S rolled tips and these easily clear the rear fascia. Fascia is shipped with lower diffuser painted matte black and upper portion of fascia is primed and must be painted to match.
· Spoiler: Direct replacement – no issues other than the stock spoiler is a bear to remove due to the double-sided tape. A carefully used heat gun helps to soften the glue. If your vehicle came with the spoiler delete option, a spoiler mounting template is provided with the GT 500 spoiler along with new mounting nuts. Spoiler is shipped primed and must be painted to match.
· Rocker Mouldings (Matte Black): Direct replacement – no issues. Surprisingly, these are very inexpensive and can be purchased cheaper than professionally repainting the originals.
· GT 500 Rocker Stripes: inexpensive, easy to install and come in 4 colors – silver, gray, white & blue. Mine are satin silver as the body color is windveil blue.
· Lemans Stripes: I did not install. However each of the 15 individual pieces are available from Ford. Very expensive – can probably have them painted on for about the same price. FYI – the convertible GT 500s are not available with Lemans stripes – rocker stripes only.
· Shelby/GT 500 & Cobra Emblems: Direct replacement. Fender cobra emblems & faux gas cap on deck lid have mounting pins for proper alignment. A carefully used heat gun helps to soften the glue. Original emblems are secured with the same double-sided tape as the spoiler. Front cobra emblem attaches to upper grill with 2 retainers
· SVT Door Sill Plates: Direct replacement – no issues
· Flat Blade Wiper System: Direct replacement – no issues. Suggest removing & installing arms while hood is off. A battery terminal puller works great.
· Wheels: I did not install the OEM GT 500 18” x 9.5” wheels (+45mm offset) as I already have a set of 18” x 9” deep dish chrome bullet wheels (+34mm offset/6.34” backspacing) for the front and 18” x 10” deep dish chrome bullet wheels (+45mm offset/7.27” backspacing) for the rear which were purchased from American Muscle (formerly Mustang Tuning). I was able to use Ford “SVT” center caps (2M5Z-1130-AA) with the bullet wheels. The wheels are wrapped in BF Goodrich KDW NT 255/45ZR18s in the front and 285/40ZR18s in the rear – same size (27.0”) as the production GT 500. The OEM GT 500 wheels are readily available from Ford but are expensive and each wheel has a $50 core charge. If you are considering the GT 500 wheels, American Muscle (formerly Mustang Tuning) offers a comparable option in either black or chrome for less than 50% of the OEM wheel. Another item worth mentioning: Ford recommends installing different steering stops when installing 18” GT 500 wheels on a vehicle which originally came with 17” wheels from the factory.
· Hood: If you are using a Saleen S/C this section is very important. The GT 500 hood requires using the GT 500 front fascia. You must use JDM lowering mounts in order to prevent the front of the S/C and throttle body from hitting the hood – the Saleen S/C is much longer & taller than the Eaton S/C used on the production GT 500. I would have thought the taller GT 500 hood would provide enough clearance without having to use the lowering mounts but not so. Additionally if you are using the JDM CAI, the heat shield must be trimmed to prevent hitting the hood. Not real difficult. Lastly the JDM CAI filter element hits the hood. This too can easily be overcome. S&B manufactures the filter used by JDM in their CAI. I called S&B’s tech dept. and they were very helpful, providing me with all the dimensional data on the filter (Flange ID 4”, Height 7”, Base OD 6.4375” & Top OD 5.25”). This was important, as I did not want to significantly change the volume of air passing the MAF sensor and create CEL issues. I also called K&N and asked them the same questions. As it turns out, K&N offers a filter (RF-1015), which is dimensionally very similar (Flange ID 4”, Height 7”, Base OD 6” & Top OD 4.5”) to the S&B filter, but has a 1.125” shorter flange length, which fit the need perfectly. See attached pictures of modified CAI heat shield and K&N filter.
This is from a post from another forum if you want the link PM me:
· Front Fascia: No modifications are required as long as the complete list of required front fascia parts is used. The front fascia does not interfere with either the Saleen S/C intercooler water pump or heat exchanger. If your base body color is anything except black, you should consider painting the radiator core support below the sight shield, as it will now be seen behind the taller upper GT 500 grille. Flat black does the job nicely and allows the core support to seamlessly fade into the background and not be noticeably visible. Unfortunately Ford does not offer the harness ends for the new GT 500 fog lamps separately. The entire front harness must be purchased. The harness is relatively inexpensive though, and the fog lamp connectors can be installed on the original harness in about 30 minutes including soldering, installing heat shrink and loom for a professional looking job. Replacement fog lamp bulbs are PS24N, per the GT 500 Owner’s Manual Supplement, but Ford’s Parts Dept. cannot identify this trade number. The original GT lower splash shield under the radiator, which mounts to lower valance panel and K-member, still fits with no modifications. The lower valance is shipped matte black (same color as the rocker mouldings and lower diffuser on the rear fascia) and does not require painting. Fascia is shipped primed and must be painted to match. Don’t forget to aim the new headlamps & foglamps.
· Sight Shield: The GT 500 sight shield will fit with no issues once the front fascia has been installed. However, the decal (which is not sold separately) on the GT 500 sight shield, which gives the A/C refrigerant refill capacities, is incorrect for the stock GT. This should be noted if recharging the A/C ever becomes necessary or mistakes can easily be made. I took a label maker and installed a small vinyl decal, with the correct refill capacity, directly over the incorrect refill capacity. Not even noticeable. The other item that should be mentioned is the GT 500 sight shield mounts with 8 rivets where the stock GT sight shield mounts with only 6 rivets. The other 2 rivet holes on the GT 500 sight shield mount to the GT 500 radiator heat shields, which are not be used on the stock GT. This too can be overcome by simply fabricating (2) small “Z” shaped brackets and mounting them to the radiator core support. The sight shield covers them when installed and will not be seen. Then all 8 rivet holes can be used and the installation is complete.
· Rear Fascia: The GT 500 rear fascia has 3 small tabs, which mount to the center of the body of the vehicle. The center tab of the GT 500 fascia is molded differently than the stock GT fascia. However, this is not a problem as the center mounting tab on the GT 500 fascia can be securely mounted to the rear of the body by simply fitting the tab up to the body and drilling a hole in the body and securing with the original rivet. I should also mention I am using Magnaflow 15882 axleback mufflers with the 4” S/S rolled tips and these easily clear the rear fascia. Fascia is shipped with lower diffuser painted matte black and upper portion of fascia is primed and must be painted to match.
· Spoiler: Direct replacement – no issues other than the stock spoiler is a bear to remove due to the double-sided tape. A carefully used heat gun helps to soften the glue. If your vehicle came with the spoiler delete option, a spoiler mounting template is provided with the GT 500 spoiler along with new mounting nuts. Spoiler is shipped primed and must be painted to match.
· Rocker Mouldings (Matte Black): Direct replacement – no issues. Surprisingly, these are very inexpensive and can be purchased cheaper than professionally repainting the originals.
· GT 500 Rocker Stripes: inexpensive, easy to install and come in 4 colors – silver, gray, white & blue. Mine are satin silver as the body color is windveil blue.
· Lemans Stripes: I did not install. However each of the 15 individual pieces are available from Ford. Very expensive – can probably have them painted on for about the same price. FYI – the convertible GT 500s are not available with Lemans stripes – rocker stripes only.
· Shelby/GT 500 & Cobra Emblems: Direct replacement. Fender cobra emblems & faux gas cap on deck lid have mounting pins for proper alignment. A carefully used heat gun helps to soften the glue. Original emblems are secured with the same double-sided tape as the spoiler. Front cobra emblem attaches to upper grill with 2 retainers
· SVT Door Sill Plates: Direct replacement – no issues
· Flat Blade Wiper System: Direct replacement – no issues. Suggest removing & installing arms while hood is off. A battery terminal puller works great.
· Wheels: I did not install the OEM GT 500 18” x 9.5” wheels (+45mm offset) as I already have a set of 18” x 9” deep dish chrome bullet wheels (+34mm offset/6.34” backspacing) for the front and 18” x 10” deep dish chrome bullet wheels (+45mm offset/7.27” backspacing) for the rear which were purchased from American Muscle (formerly Mustang Tuning). I was able to use Ford “SVT” center caps (2M5Z-1130-AA) with the bullet wheels. The wheels are wrapped in BF Goodrich KDW NT 255/45ZR18s in the front and 285/40ZR18s in the rear – same size (27.0”) as the production GT 500. The OEM GT 500 wheels are readily available from Ford but are expensive and each wheel has a $50 core charge. If you are considering the GT 500 wheels, American Muscle (formerly Mustang Tuning) offers a comparable option in either black or chrome for less than 50% of the OEM wheel. Another item worth mentioning: Ford recommends installing different steering stops when installing 18” GT 500 wheels on a vehicle which originally came with 17” wheels from the factory.
· Hood: If you are using a Saleen S/C this section is very important. The GT 500 hood requires using the GT 500 front fascia. You must use JDM lowering mounts in order to prevent the front of the S/C and throttle body from hitting the hood – the Saleen S/C is much longer & taller than the Eaton S/C used on the production GT 500. I would have thought the taller GT 500 hood would provide enough clearance without having to use the lowering mounts but not so. Additionally if you are using the JDM CAI, the heat shield must be trimmed to prevent hitting the hood. Not real difficult. Lastly the JDM CAI filter element hits the hood. This too can easily be overcome. S&B manufactures the filter used by JDM in their CAI. I called S&B’s tech dept. and they were very helpful, providing me with all the dimensional data on the filter (Flange ID 4”, Height 7”, Base OD 6.4375” & Top OD 5.25”). This was important, as I did not want to significantly change the volume of air passing the MAF sensor and create CEL issues. I also called K&N and asked them the same questions. As it turns out, K&N offers a filter (RF-1015), which is dimensionally very similar (Flange ID 4”, Height 7”, Base OD 6” & Top OD 4.5”) to the S&B filter, but has a 1.125” shorter flange length, which fit the need perfectly. See attached pictures of modified CAI heat shield and K&N filter.
thanks towelly...i'm gathering as much of info i can get for this conversion. i got a buddy that works at my local dealership so there's my hook-up there. "sight shield" would you happen to know what that is. thanks again for this detailed info.
gashog
Member
BREDn07
That sounds like the radiator cover with all the fluid capacities on it. You'll get one with the GT500 specs on it.. you want the reg GT stuff.
That mod would look killer on your car.
That sounds like the radiator cover with all the fluid capacities on it. You'll get one with the GT500 specs on it.. you want the reg GT stuff.
That mod would look killer on your car.
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