H/C/I @ 14's in 1/4 ?!?!

[admstng]

i see some of you guys in your sig with time's in the 14's with H/C/I. If this is the case i am gouing to sell my notch, put the 4K down on a trans-am.

what i want: To beat a stock LS1

What i don't want: to spend 3 K in parts and labor to get smoked in the 1/4 by 6 car lenghts by a LS1.

 

[IndyBlk5.0]

some combinations dont work well with each other... some people cant drive... some people run on street tires... the list goes on. If you dont like to drive your stang and fall in love with it everytime you hear the sound of it, i suggest you get a different car is you are completely worried about speed. As for head/cam/intake, that is your choice, you can get stock ported, or go all out on some afr's, it depends if you want to spend the change. bottom line, everyones cars and driving skills are different. If all you want is speed, buy a car that will suit your needs.

 

[Sir Hacksalot]

What i don't want: to spend 3 K in parts and labor to get smoked in the 1/4 by 6 car lenghts by a LS1.

First and foremost...learn to drive your car.

The best HCI set up in the world is wasted if you can't drive, or get the power to the ground, so invest in the appropriate suspension parts.

There are more than a few 5.0 stangs here that are running solid 13's with nothing more than very simple bolt ons (UD Pulleys, Electric Fan), gears, slicks, and some suspension parts.

I have to tell you right now, if I plopped down my cabbage on some AFRs, custom cam, and intake, and the supporting cast of goodies, and ran 12's, I WOULD BE PISSED!

If you want to beat an LS1...throw in some gears, blow 150HP shot of gas through it, and you are set.

Hax

 

[90mustangGT]

To beat a stock LS1, you need considerably more power than the stock 5.0 will make. What I don't get is how some people act as though "unless you have H/C/I and a poweradder, you don't stand a chance" I think some people just don't know how to put an engine togeather. The fact is the LS1 comes with a H/C/I combo stock that competes with aftermarket manufacturers. There are many advantages the LS1 has but one thing the F body has too much of, and that is weight.

You go ahead and buy a LS1 powered F-body, it is going to at least cost you at least $14K no doubt unless you get a dogged out one and then your really in for an adventure. Your drop $4K as your down payment, you have at least $10K plus interest to pay off. Figure that out and see what your car payment will be. Then consider if you put that money into your notch, where the parts are dirt cheap, just what you can do. With that alone, you will put 6 car lengths on a LS6, which is standard on some of the new GM's comming out.

The LS1 is a nice engine. But F-body and LS1 parts are very expensive. We get parts dirt cheap.

It's your choice, if you don't love foxbodies, then sell it to someone who does, and get what makes you happy.

 

[Bone Racing]

driver and traction are a huge determination of e/t

 

[Ghetto]

I run mid 13s and I'm basically stock.

 

[what_stanger?]

I run mid 13s and I'm basically stock.

you and a grip of other stangers, some of them 12s, mikierstad or somthing like that had a very minor list with awesome times, he milks it, like most of us 'factory freak' guys do, i managed a 13.39 at a mere 99 mph!!!, 1.78 60' time

what is this car trapping in the 1320?, just because you ran a 14 isn't all bad, if you trapped say 108 or somthing, then it means you're got horrid 60's or just plain suck at picking shiftpoints and shifting fast.

post up a timeslip.....i too, if i had h/c/i i would want 11s, i plan on 11s with a stock shortblock/intake/TB this year, heh, just serious poweradder!

anywho, post up that timeslip man.
and consider a dyno tune by a pro

 

[jerry beach]

Amen, brotha. Go buy the camaro and have fun. I hope you dont work on it yourself, or you may not have to. Just leave it stock. But I love my fox, and I will make it better that it ever was before. I will have fun building it up, cause its so much easier to work on than an F-body. Parts are pretty cheap too, but suspension stuff is high. The F-body hooks up as it is and doesnt need all that. Its up to you, but given the same $, I will smoke your F-body, no doubt. My car owes me nothing. I paid $2800 cash for it and drove it for 3 1/2 years now and its still in good shape. I can fix whatever goes wrong and improve her along the way. If it gets wrecked, I will buy another one and transfer the parts over. I pay about $30 a month for insurance, what will that financed F-body cost?

 

[Ghetto]

I need some better traction for me,my 60ft on the 13.6 pass was a 2.000

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=391664

 

[Black331Stang]

i dont think he even has a stang yet..or hasnt started modding, he is just saying hes been looking a teh sigs and seeing bad times with HCI's...honestly i havent seen anyone on here post in their sig that they ran 14s with HCI...y would u wanna brag that?? and HCI with all teh right parts u should be 12s easily

 

[Grn92LX]

I have to tell you right now, if I plopped down my cabbage on some AFRs, custom cam, and intake, and the supporting cast of goodies, and ran 12's, I WOULD BE PISSED!

Hax

Why would you be pissed? With your typical 3300lb street car on pony wheels with drag radials, 12's is what your typically gonna run and thats about the norm. Now, do drag suspension, make it weigh 3000lbs with driver, add 410's or more gear and yeah, said car will go 11's. A 12 sec drag radial street car is a nice running car..

 

[Gearbanger 101]

I think another contributing factor to some of these poor times that a lot of newbie builders don’t consider is that their concentrating to much on putting the highest flowing components into their engines that boast peek numbers, but then whine about gas mileage and leave their stock 2.73's in the rear end. Most H/C/I combos thrive on RPM and don’t start to make anywhere near their advertised power until after well after 3500RPM. This is all fine and dandy, but their making even less power than stock anywhere below that and a set of stock cogs is only going to worsen the effect.

As most of the responses state, the guys running 14-second times after H/C/I changes either can’t drive, made very poor choices in component selection, or really didn’t take into consideration that it takes more overall preparation, than peek horsepower to make an engine like that perform to it’s potential.

 

[90mustangGT]

Jerry Beach, that what I was trying to say.

Let me add, I work on cars for a living. The 5.0HO is a cakewalk compared to most engines as far as difficulty to work on. So if you plan on beefing anything up, either get a car from the 70's or older and learn how to tune a carb, if you want something a little more modern, the foxbody 5.0HO is the way to go. If your not interested in working on it, then get "factory speed" or what I call Bought Speed. No, you won't get the respect of the gearheads, and your car will be predictable as far as everyone knowing if they can beat you or not, but it will be fast and you won't even have to know where the oil cap is.

Q: What do you want, a project/hobby or just a fast car?

A: The car that makes the man = Get the F-body
A: The man that makes the car = Get the Foxbody

 

[jerry beach]

Well put, 90mustangGt. I am working on traction, not power. I will try to make more power once I have that. Once I have traction, I will give the camaros a run, I am lighter and dont need the power they make.

 

[noslow5_0]

i dont think that ls1's are really that fast anyway... I have a buddy with a 96 ws6 which has the ls1 in it, and i can walk on him all day long from a dead stop, or from a rolling 20.... Now maybe on the highway he might be able to take me, and i know for sure that my car isnt a 12 second car, but he paid 10,000 for his, an i paid 3500 for mine... He doesnt work on his hardly at all, and im always workin on mine. This might be from me screwin things up when trying to fix something small. Like others have said along with my pops "you can go spend 30,000 on a fast car that looks cool..." Its all good.....

 

[autoXr1]

NMRA Factory Stock class...how fast are they running? 11's. Pure Street? 10's. Real Street? 9's. Simple combos, tuned very well, with TRACTION.

Someone was joking around in another thread a while back and said, "What does a 300HP, 500HP, and 700HP Supra have in common?"...A 12 sec. time slip. Not many have traction.

Most street cars don't have traction. Especially, street Mustangs. They'll blow the tires off at a 15mph roll...cool in the parking lot at the local high school...not cool in a race. Ford engineers designed them that way so they aren't at the dealerships with blown-out drivetrains. Too often you see sigs with blowers, H/C/I, gears, a long list of mods...then 1.8-2.0 sec 60' times... Often, once the rear control arm GEOMETRY is changed to match the instant center of the car, the vehicle will launch like someone hit them in the @$$ with a truck.

Suspension, gearing, tires, and of course, good driving.

 

[willys1]

Thumper just put a post up a few weeks ago about some one with a mostly stock 5.0.He put a thumper package on(Heads,cam,timing chain,,,forget what intake he had) and was running 12.3's!!And he had a set of gears.That aint too shaby!!

 

[5.0Droptop]

as said..... Drive it like you stole it!

 

[A-mann]

You also get those people that think that power = good ET's. Defintely not the case. Power helps a lot, but there are so many other contributing factors. I'll admit, I was one of those people. Look in my sig. The only suspension mods that I put on the car (subframes were on the car when I bought it) were the UCA's. My tires blow too...Pep Boy's Futura's. I was still able to get a 13.9 though. With suspension and a stall converter, I'm pretty sure the vert could run mid/low 13s, and it still doesn't have a cam. If I could do it all over again, I'd start modding for traction first, and THEN do the power stuff.

 

[25thmustang]

Its all in the traction and driver, those are the best mods you can have!