It is already dropped in, I rotated the distributor with it all in with just the hold down removed.
I Cant Take It Anymore Help Me!!!!!!
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You need to account for the rotation of the distributor shaft as it drops in and engages with the drive gear. With the distributor out, turn the rotor counterclockwise about 20-30 degrees then reinsert the distributor, leaving the cap off. Adjust as necessary.
Have a little faith, bro, you'll get it right.....
Have a little faith, bro, you'll get it right.....
I have the distributor stabbed properly, I didn't remove it restab it. What I did was verify TDC witha piston stop to make sure the timing pointer was correct. It is 0 = 0 degrees, so what Ronstang said to do was crank the engine over till it was on the compression stroke and go to 10 degrees on the damper with the distributor in. I then marked where the number one plug wire went in on the distributor. I then took the cap off and rotated the distributor until the rotor was pointing exactly where the number one plug wire is. This would then set my timing at exactly 10 degrees or close enough for to start over, this puts my vacuum advance in the 4-5 oclock position if you look at it from the front(I am trying to paint an image of this for you guys, think where your vacuum advance would be pointing right now were your timing here, so I am sure it is on the right tooth). Now that I have confirmend my timing pointers are accurate. Before when I had the car started I could not advance it enough to get it to start with the wires the way they are right now(I had it touching the thermostat neck and all I would get were chugs like it was about to start, when I pulled the cap off to check the rotor I had to put the wires back where they were if I wanted to get to 10 degrees otherwise I couldn't retard it that much, now the wires are proper, and the advance is pointing in the 4-5 oclock position), so I had jumped them clockwise one so I was super advanced before. My firing order is correct also I know that for a fact, it is a early 302 cam so that is the firing order I am running. So we can cross that possibility off the list. Man I am dying to drive this thing this weekend we gotta figure this out.
Wait a minute I just checked the carb and the mixture screws were all out like 3 turns, I put them all the way in and turned them out 1.5 turns. I also noticed that my floats seem high, they are at the very top of the sight glass with the car on an incline. I will put it down the car off jackstands and see where the floats are then. They are supposed to be at the bottom of the sight glass correct? I know this is so with holleys isn't demon the same?
Pakrat
Founding Member
You are sure you have a 302 cam in your 351? I've known folks who had problems when they did not know they had a 351 cam in their 302 and so the 302 firing order didn't work, but this is a first for me the other way around.
I know you verified fuel flow at the carb, but did you check your fuel filter? A clog could cause it to squirt OK and start up but then die all of a sudden and not restart until the back flow blows the clog free again. Other than that I am really running out of ideas here.
I know you verified fuel flow at the carb, but did you check your fuel filter? A clog could cause it to squirt OK and start up but then die all of a sudden and not restart until the back flow blows the clog free again. Other than that I am really running out of ideas here.
Pakrat said:
I know for a fact it is a 302 camshaft as I shipped it to him. I still have the cam card right in front of me because I forgot to put it in the box. It is definitely a 302 camshaft, the part number says so, and I pulled it out of a 302 just after breaking it in. It is definitely a 302 firing order camshaft.
I also have checked and turned the idle screws in all the way and then turned them out 1.5 turns. The fuel filter is a clear one and it is brand new. I would be able to tell if it were clogged so nope that is not a problem. The floats are also set properly to demon specs. Where else could I look, I have tried multiple times just pumping the carb twice and then cranking and all I get are little chugs like it is having a hard time starting. I am completely lost now. 
krash kendall
Active Member
Save yourself some frustrations:
1. Pull off all the spark plug leads.
2. Yank out the distributor
3. Start over following the proper procedure including setting TDC, point gap, relooming the wires etc.
If that doesn't work then find some help from somebody that can physically see and touch the engine. The rule with this venue is that you are limited to the amount of hypothesized assumptions based on your ability to provide accurate descriptions.
1. Pull off all the spark plug leads.
2. Yank out the distributor
3. Start over following the proper procedure including setting TDC, point gap, relooming the wires etc.
If that doesn't work then find some help from somebody that can physically see and touch the engine. The rule with this venue is that you are limited to the amount of hypothesized assumptions based on your ability to provide accurate descriptions.
pabear89
Active Member
I will agreee with KK,
Pull the dist, and bring #1 to TDC and set timing mark on 0 at balancer.
with #1 marked on dist, mesh the gears so that your vac advance is
straight at the 6 oclock position as it drops down and rotor stays at the #1 position.
If the oil pump drive does not match up......Hold slight pressure on the dist and bump the starter to crank engine, the dist will drop on to the pump shaft.
replace hold down bolt to finger tight.
crank engine a few times and bring it to #1 on compression stroke and set balancer at 10 BTDC.
Because your using points, with a VOM, set on continuity test,
ground one side and the other goes to your dist lead at the coil.
Slowly move the dist till you lose connection,(the points wil be just opening)
tighten the dist bolt.
I have used this method with great results.
PB
Pull the dist, and bring #1 to TDC and set timing mark on 0 at balancer.
with #1 marked on dist, mesh the gears so that your vac advance is
straight at the 6 oclock position as it drops down and rotor stays at the #1 position.
If the oil pump drive does not match up......Hold slight pressure on the dist and bump the starter to crank engine, the dist will drop on to the pump shaft.
replace hold down bolt to finger tight.
crank engine a few times and bring it to #1 on compression stroke and set balancer at 10 BTDC.
Because your using points, with a VOM, set on continuity test,
ground one side and the other goes to your dist lead at the coil.
Slowly move the dist till you lose connection,(the points wil be just opening)
tighten the dist bolt.
I have used this method with great results.
PB
I GOT HER RUNNING AND SET AT 14 DEGREES!!!!!!!! The problem was fouled plugs from the other carb, now it takes one turn of the key and Vroom!!!!!
Pakrat
Founding Member
69Rcode_Mach1 said:
Let's see, what's the biggest font we have?
WHEW
Kudo's man, almost makes it all seem worth it don't it? 14* sounds pretty good and I'm sure you are hesitant to mess with it now that she's going good, but after some test drives don't be afraid to try advancing or retarding it a little more to get it perfect.Similar threads
