Ok it's 2:30 in the morning and I can't sleep cause I got all this stuff running through my head. Where working on the undercarriage of the car now and I would like to get everything the way I want it while were down here before any performance upgrades are done, which could be a long time off. At first I wanted to have everything done before the car ever hit the road. The stroker motor, the built C4, the Currie 9 inch, you know the routine. You know what, that's not going to happen. if I did that I would never be driving this car, it would constantly be sitting, waiting for money to do the next thing. But I don't want to waste alot of money now, just to have to redo it later. so, finally to my question. with the c4 trans. If I get it built up now to handle the power of later, is that going to cause any problems with the stock engine. The rear end. for now im going to have the axles redrilled to 5 lug, and i want to put a limited slip diff. in it just so I can do a burnout every now and then, WOOPEEEE!! of course i don't know if the stock engine has the power for that or not, i guess well wait and see. Then again, this rear set up might be all I'll need in the first place. Once the stroker goes in I'm not one to abuse my cars anyway. 99.9% of the time it will be used strictly for cruising. An ocassional burnout, and once in a great while to the strip, like during an all Ford show. And even then I don't see me putting slicks on it for that. Whatcha' think, maybe I don't need a 9 inch in the first place. Maybe not even a built C4. I don;t know. Thank's for listening to me ramble. OH, rear brakes. Is there any way to put on larger rear brakes on the 8" rear. I definately know I'm at least going with the Granada front set-up. Would like to have larger rear brakes as well. Are lowering blocks totally safe? Is there any problems with going with them. I want to lower the rear about 1 or 2 inches. The front will be lowered with dropped spindles. I know I can go with the custom shackels. I just question the blocks, because I don't want to have to worry about them braking or loosening up. And I want to go with 15" Magnum 500's. I think that would be a pretty good look lowered a little. Thanks
I hate when that happens. Shouldn't. Unknown. Things can be made to fit by wallering out holes but that's not something I see as safe. I install complete rear housings and axles as assemblies, That way I know the parts are ment to work together. That's just me, I'm sure theres a hack or hobbiest out there that can give you a work around. Those brakes are tiny, arent they? I wouldn't use lowering blocks. It's much better to have a set of springs built to sit the height you want. But once again, that's just me. I can't help but see lowering blocks reducing axle controol. They can also screw with drive shaft alignment. Plenty of stuff sold for cars today makes me wonder, but thats another story.
in my opinion, you can build the 8 inch rear into a very reliable piece. the most complaints or problems i have seen are the axles. usually twisting or breaking in the tapered area of the axle. upgrade the axles and ring gear, you should be good to go. yes the 9 inch is stronger and there are other benifits (parts availability) but i don't think its necessary for street use. building the car specifically for drag racing, i probably would go with the 9 inch lowering blocks are a toss up. i looked at them for my king and decided i would go with new springs when i am finished with my other projects. with the age of the car and the ride quality suffering, i would need to replace them soon anyways. its amazing the difference in opinions you can get on something as simple as lowering blocks. some of the responses: handling would be terrible, the ride quality would suffer, would make the mounting points weaker because of the longer u-bolts, would affect launches when racing, changes the pinion angle, they are not stable. then i would get the total opposite of these responses from the next guy.
You aint kiddin'!! The custom lowering shackles. I think the drop is about 1" with using them. Those won't cause any pinion or driveline alignment problems would they? I need to buy new leaf springs anyway, so I think I will stick with lowering it with springs and shackels. I would like to apologize to everyone for the run on post last night. I was just typing everything that was in my head at the time.
Got the answer for your rear brakes! Mid to late 70's Granada. Bolt on without any hassle whatsoever. And they're 10" x 2 1/2 " compared to mustang II 9" x 1 1/2". Much better braking. done it on mine and they work well with the granada fronts and master cylinder. I've often wondered about swapping the disc setup on my 2000 Explorer. It has a mini drum inside the disc hub as a E brake. It uses the 8.8 rear axle like a late model mustang. dont know if thats interchangeable. p.s. glad to know I'm not the only one who sits up at 2 am thinking about their car!!
That sounds pretty good. I'll have to look into that. Thanks I know some of the guys here have done the 8.8 swap, maybe they'll chime in with some info.
I did the 8.8 swap. My rear is out of a 95 Ranger so I ended up with big brakes as well. The only things to be aware of if you go with the 8.8 is.. 1. The 8.8 doesn't load from the front like the 8 and 9 do. This makes it impossible to swap in a different pumkin with a lower ratio for long drives. 2. The 8.8 brings the driveshaft very close to the tunnel on the passenger side but it clears, by about 1 1/2 inches. 3. You'll have to have the spring perches welded on to the 8.8 in the correct spot. Other that that, my 8.8 does very well. I don't think It'll ever break. And with the 3.73 posi, it takes off like a shot.
Anytime the ride height of the rear end is changed, the pinion angle is going to change...be it lowering blocks, re-arched springs, short rear shackles. The only "bad" i've found with lowering blocks is in extreme cases with 4"+ worth of lowering block, the axle has more leverage to wind up the springs. It's best to go with springs that already give you the correct height and stiffeness desired. I personally have always had to use lowering blocks, even with me one set of lowering springs...I find that the sway bar will not clear the axle housing when using SSM lift bars, unless you have lowering blocks installed. The best handling setup I've had so far has been stock shackles, 1" lowering blocks with a large diameter 9" housing, and SSM lift bars shimmed to correct the pinion angle. With an automatic, I wouldn't worry about the 8" rear being strong enough. I really have to agree with Wart about the rear brakes...with a Mustang II, it's just best to swap in a whole new housing complete with brakes and 5-lug axles. Any housing that's not from a II or a Pinto seems to have the correct end-plate pattern to accept aftermarket brakes as well.
Yeah, and each method changes the pinion angle for a different reason. When a leaf is flattened it rotates the pinion "down" to help maintain proper alignment, or close. Use of lowering blocks eliminates this rotation. Wellllll ..... Blocks reduce the amount of wrap from axle twist. What your feeling is the blocks allowing forward/ aft movement of the housing. Well, of course, your using the axle housing as a stab/ sway bar. When the snubbers are against the eye your one step away from running ladder bars. I find it interesting how you used a 1" block then needed to correct the pinion angle by preloading the lift bars so the pinion would be rotated "down". Some people find this painful. Sort of, I was stripping a Aerostar and pulled the plates to see if they would fit the Granada houshing, they didn't. Mayhaps with a bit of 'wallering'. Years ago I swapped a whole bunch of bolt together parts between several cars and trucks onto an axle, damned if I can remember what came from where, I think I was using a Bronco axle at the time. What I did find is nothing fit the II housing. And the II system/ housing needs replaceing anyhow.
