Checking out the KB's and more then likely going to be purchasing one VERY soon. Was just wondering if anyone knows of any deals or coupons for Kenne Bell, I personally am pretty sure there are none. But I figuered if i'm gonna be dropping 5k+ I might as well ask..... right?
I'm biased, but you might want to look into other options before plunking down $5k or more of your hard-earned cash. What are your goals for the car? Oh, and to answer your question, I'm sorry, but I don't know of any discounts that Kenne Bell offers.
Kenne bell is there own distributer so you wont find anyone cheaper than them ever, unless its a used kit or a new kit that sat around for a long time. As for coupons there is only 1 that i know of and its a military discount, i heard its like 5% or maybe 10% i dont know im not in the military and they wont tell you unless you fax your paperwork and ID. You also have to be on active duty. You could always buy a nice used vortech or get a new one for a little more than used, but still 2k cheaper than kenne bell. Dont forget you also have to pay sales tax Since we dont know what year you are that also plays a factor. Kenne bell does not make a kit for 96-98 if you dont know that already. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Vort...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
Why wouldnt they make one for 96-98? I meen a PI intake can be bolted to non PI heads so there is no reason a positve displacment S/C designed for the PI heads wouldnt work on non PI heads Or am I missing something here? Also people always try to talk others out of a positive displacment S/C for their GTs. Why? Yes a twin screw is a bit more money but the power is so much nicer then a snail (centri or turbo) as the power is RIGHT NOW and makes our engines feel like a big block. 90% of my torque is avaliable from 1200 rpm. They are so much fun on the street with no lag or spool time. Plus the whine they make is
I have an 04 GT auto and my goals for the time being are low 400 HP and high 11's to low 12's in the 1/4. I was figuring KB would not have anything coupon related but I figuered i'd ask and I also feel I really wouldn't get as much out of a vortech as I would a KB due to the 6k redline. I was looking for a mach for a wile to toss a vortech on that but I couldn't (and still can't) find one locally that is in good condition and stick I got about 6-7 grand to spend modding my car or selling it and applying the difference (I.E. The Vortech Mach) and from all my research the KB seems the most feasible wile sticking with my GT setup.....or I guess I could save up a "little" more and get a cobra
kenne bell stopped making 96-98 kits a while ago, yes you can stick a 99-04 kit on a 96-98 but that's only if you have P.I heads. As for positive displacement yes they are nice because you get lost of boost early, but 1200rpm is to low. I test drove an 03 cobra and it didn't start till 2k and in my old saleen charger it started at 2k. I'm not trying to talk him out of a kenne bell i'm just saying that money can be better spent elsewhere. If he has 7k the most he could do is get a kenne bell 5.5k then maybe a set of cams. If he gets a used vortech for 2k or even new for $2800 then he'll have $4200 left over (if bought new) and 5k left over if used. He could get his whole engine forged, get his heads ported with cams and all installed for $4500-$5000 and then take that S trim up to 500hp and whoop on any stock engine mustang with a kenne bell unit for the same amount of cash. He also mentioned track car so centri is best for that, a kenne bell will only cause bad 60ft times unless you have full suspension, slicks and so on. We also dont know whether his car is a stick or auto that makes a difference too. I'm not saying go out and buy a centri, im just saying that sometimes for the same amount of cash you can get more for your money. If you really want a kenne bell then i would highly suggest buying one, they are really great blowers. Just remember that that stock bottom end wont last long pushing 400+hp/400+tq on those weak rods especially with full boost by 2krpm. That kind of power is meant for at least 3k rpms. If he gets a forged engine not only is his miles 0 but he has an engine that is strong. If anything he could forged his engine, buy a vortech, run it on his car at 500hp till he gets the money for a 2.6 kenne bell then sells his vortech for $2k and add that to the money he has saved. Either way you wont be disappointed, just remember it'll cost more to fix a blown engine over a working engine.
Do those numbers really add up mat? I am looking for the most bang for my buck, and I know the kenne bell is nice, but that is a concern of mine, the bottom end. When you say forged engine how much exactly are we talking here? I don't want to ask you for a whole price list on parts, but roughly price wise what are we looking at? could you give me a little break down?
Ok, well I just recently did this exact same thing. I was going to get a kenne bell 2.1 but at 5.5k after shipment i decided not to. Instead i bought a used Vortech v2-sq system for 2k. I then had my friend rebuild my engine cost me $4500 total. $1750 of that was for forged crank, Manley rods, Manley pistons and flywheel. Then $600 for ported heads to 230cfm, and a set of comp cams for $660 with springs, and the rest of the money was the install of the engine install. So far my total is $6500. Then i bought a used SCT-2400, smaller vortech pulley, Front mount intercooler all for $500, I bought some used 60lb injectors for $250 from ebay. You will also need a fuel pump, so a dual cobra assembly is best. I found one used on the forums for $125 with cobra pumps. I'm swapping them for dual svt pumps, but the stock cobra ones are capable of 500 to 540hp i hear. I'm aiming for 550+ You will also need a new clutch which costs $300 and $300 for the install if you bought the kenne bell, but if you do rebuild the engine you save $300 because the clutch has to be removed and reinstalled anyways as apart of the engine rebuild. If you were to do cams most expect 1k in labor for that so you again save 1k in labor doing it all up front. Check locally for engine costs on the rebuild. If you tackle it yourself you can save even more. Or you can buy a built shortblock from modularmustangracing.com and just transfer you items over and install your self. It can be done for a little over 7k if you get some used parts, a little more if new. Also custom a tune would be required as well 300-500 depending on where you go. If anything build the bottom end, then save for the supercharger later. That way you can decide to get a vortech or save for a kenne bell if you want. The 2.6 is the best bang for you buck because its also $5500 shipped, but it requires a new hood, but also goes to 600+hp the vortech S-trim will max at 600hp with all bolt ons. If you want more than 600 i would get a T-trim or a YSI vortech system.
Sounds like you were able to swing a few deals Thanks alot for the post and the run down, sounds like you got yourself one hell of a build for around 7 K. I'm gonna have to check into this
Yeah if you look around and find used part you can save alot of money. Just make sure you dont get any used cranks, or pistons and so one. If your going to build it do it with new parts, but you can save alot by buying used fuel parts and so on.
You can install a PI intake on NPI heads right? Cause there are several members on here with a PI plenum and NPI heads, no? If that fits then the S/C would as well. I kinda remember something about an adapter plate being needed for the PI plenum and NPI heads, if thats the case then why wouldnt it work on the twin screw?
You can find a used KB 1.7L for cheap. I sold mine for only $2500, and the kit was complete. On my then stock motor full bolt-on GT, it put down 428rwhp/433rwtq @ 9 PSI. If you're lucky, you can even land a good deal on someone trying to get rid of their 2.2L for a 2.6H. Me personally, I love my twin screw and wouldn't have it any other way.
I'm gonna go with Flghtmstr1 here and send out another vote for the Tork Tech kit as an alternative for a Positive Displacement blower. Its $500 cheaper than the equivalent Kenne Bell 2.1L right of the bat and a better put together kit on top of it all. Also, all the testing I've seen thus far between the two show the Tork Tech to produce about 3-5% more horsepower and torque than the Kenne Bell at similar boost levels. Also, if growing horsepower levels are ever in the future, you're no more than a pulley swap and a tune away with the Tork Tech, since the rest of the kit is built to handle the limits of the blower (about 500-525rwhp). Not something the Kenne Bell is capable of doing right out of the box. Anything much smaller than the 11psi pulley and you'll start to experience belt slip, which will require either a larger crank pulley or an 8-rib pulley conversion. Both of which are going to cost you anywhere from $300-$500. Also, Kenne Bell supplies its kits with only 36lb/hr injectors and a boost a pump to supply the fuel. Fine as long as you keep it within the 410-425rwhp range, but get beyond that and you'll quickly start meeting the limits of your fuel system. The only real drawback to the Tork Tech kit (if you in fact consider it a drawback) is the need to either purchase their hood extension ($199) or run an aftermarket hood. The 5th Generation Magnacharger isn't quite as compact as the Twin Screw and as such clearance is a bit of an issue with the stock hood. Either way, you're still coming out ahead when all is said and done, but some consider it a drawback to the kit none the less.
No. I didn't even plan on putting a twin screw on the Cobra but got a used polished KB 2.6H w/less than 200 miles for a good deal. That and my tuner is a KB dealer made my choice easy.
That and they didn't really having anthing bigger than the 140AX (2.3L) at the time either, did they? I don't think it was until last year until they came out with that beastly 210AX (3.3L ) I'd love to see someone push one of those to its maximum potential. MM&FF bolted one to a lightning a while back and made something like 750RWHP at 16psi. The things a beast!
