I need new brakes
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The larger vented rotor of the Cobra/Mach/Bullitt dispate the heat better, I don't think the same exact caliper and pad in GT and Cobra makes any difference unless you are doing some serious track events, and then the cooling effect is the vented larger rotors to dissipate the heat. That is why the rears are slightly better. I would not spend the money for rear brakes that only contribute 15-20% of stopping power. Huge waste.
I agree the slightly larger radius helps, but in the rear case, I think it is negligable
I agree the slightly larger radius helps, but in the rear case, I think it is negligable
how do you figure leverage is leverage. and the cobra/bullit/mach1 rears are thicker. thats why gt pads wont work. I doubt the slighty better heat disipation makes the difference.
fobra559
At least it's more erect and not floppy anymore.
Thanks for the info guys. Looks like I'll just get the red front kit and paint the rears red to match.
As long as the GT pads are slightly worn, you can use them when you make the swap. The reason the rotor is thicker is because it is vented and the GT is solid.
After removing the tire:
1. remove e-brake cable
2. remove caliper (2 bolts)
3. remove old pads
4. Using brake tool, twist caliper piston in (it may be a little easier if you attach a bleeder hose and crack the bleeder screw, if not make sure the fluid doesn't overflow in the master cylinder reservoir)
5. optional:replace rotor or turn rotor (remove caliper bracket, 2 bolts)
6. install new pads
7. bolt on caliper
8. connect e-brake cable
9. bleed brakes if exposed air into the system
That should be the highlights
SRT Handz
I tripped & fell down and cut myself & got blood
Cobra Brake upgrade FTW.....Stock 1 piston SN95 brakes are down right scary. With SS Lines and slotted rottors the PBR cobra Brakes Stop Great....On the dime.
Not sure what you meant by this part. The slightly larger radius is what helps, though for rears that provide 15-20% stopping power, that radius difference isn't doing much.
what i ment is on the fronts your gaining 2inches and in the rear you gaining 1.65inches. now with smaller pistons in the front your gaining a s**t load of stoping power (and both gt and mach1/cobra/bullitt the front rotors are vented). I think that a 1.65 inch increase in the rear will help substantialy more then just better heat disapation. ya the heat disapation helps but look at the difference in stoping power in the front of the car. with 1.65 inches your getting a similar increase in power. leverage is leverage.
try more like $200 with new pads. thats not worth it to you? you will pay almost that much just replacing your stock pads and rotors with quality pieces.
It is a matter of choice I guess. I personally would do them both at the same time. Do not pay the high price for the rear kit because it uses the same calipers as the stock GT. If you can find just the taller mounting bracket and some stock Cobra rear rotors you will be fine.
Betrayer00GT
Member
I did the Cobra front swap, too. I did it because my front brakes were finally done, after I had run the car for >4 and a half years. I got the FMS 2300-Q set from Summit, but I see they have raised the price on that kit already. Too bad.
BTW, the rotors rust only if you don't paint them. I used the Duplicolor silver 1200-deg spray can on mine. Best $6 I've spent in a while.
I noticed an excellent difference after my install, as far as braking ability, but my front brakes needed to be done in a big way before I actually put these on.
I think the real difference between the GT and Cobra brakes (rear especially, but front too) is not how quickly you will stop the first time, but how quickly you will stop on the 3rd or 5th time in quick succession. In other words, at a track. I have no doubt the fronts improve stopping distance on the street, but I bet it isn't by as much as some might think. I don't think anyone would argue that, at a track, the stock GT brakes are completely useless.
I did the cobra brakes (vs just a brake job) because I want more confidence at the drag strip after I get blown. Spending a Saturday at a "Test and Tune" event at Sacramento Raceway for a bit of "hot lapping", to practice launch technique once the blower goes in, would scare me a little w/ the stock GT brakes. I am confident it would be fine on these Cobra rotors and calipers. When the rear-end comes apart for pre-blower hardening, I will add the $175 Ford Racing Cobra rear brake conversion kit. I don't see the point before then, though.
BTW, the rotors rust only if you don't paint them. I used the Duplicolor silver 1200-deg spray can on mine. Best $6 I've spent in a while.
I noticed an excellent difference after my install, as far as braking ability, but my front brakes needed to be done in a big way before I actually put these on.
I think the real difference between the GT and Cobra brakes (rear especially, but front too) is not how quickly you will stop the first time, but how quickly you will stop on the 3rd or 5th time in quick succession. In other words, at a track. I have no doubt the fronts improve stopping distance on the street, but I bet it isn't by as much as some might think. I don't think anyone would argue that, at a track, the stock GT brakes are completely useless.
I did the cobra brakes (vs just a brake job) because I want more confidence at the drag strip after I get blown. Spending a Saturday at a "Test and Tune" event at Sacramento Raceway for a bit of "hot lapping", to practice launch technique once the blower goes in, would scare me a little w/ the stock GT brakes. I am confident it would be fine on these Cobra rotors and calipers. When the rear-end comes apart for pre-blower hardening, I will add the $175 Ford Racing Cobra rear brake conversion kit. I don't see the point before then, though.
I did the Cobra front swap, too. I did it because my front brakes were finally done, after I had run the car for >4 and a half years. I got the FMS 2300-Q set from Summit, but I see they have raised the price on that kit already. Too bad.
BTW, the rotors rust only if you don't paint them. I used the Duplicolor silver 1200-deg spray can on mine. Best $6 I've spent in a while.
I noticed an excellent difference after my install, as far as braking ability, but my front brakes needed to be done in a big way before I actually put these on.
I think the real difference between the GT and Cobra brakes (rear especially, but front too) is not how quickly you will stop the first time, but how quickly you will stop on the 3rd or 5th time in quick succession. In other words, at a track. I have no doubt the fronts improve stopping distance on the street, but I bet it isn't by as much as some might think. I don't think anyone would argue that, at a track, the stock GT brakes are completely useless.
I did the cobra brakes (vs just a brake job) because I want more confidence at the drag strip after I get blown. Spending a Saturday at a "Test and Tune" event at Sacramento Raceway for a bit of "hot lapping", to practice launch technique once the blower goes in, would scare me a little w/ the stock GT brakes. I am confident it would be fine on these Cobra rotors and calipers. When the rear-end comes apart for pre-blower hardening, I will add the $175 Ford Racing Cobra rear brake conversion kit. I don't see the point before then, though.
Nice to see another stanger from sac on here. what part of sac you live in?
if the strip is gona be your home i wouldnt do the rear upgrade because you cant run a 15in rim. it kinda limits you to drag radial.
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