I need some advice ...

NastyStang113

New Member
Sep 12, 2008
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Florida
Alright guys, I've finished with the outside of my car, well pretty much. I just need to get the 3D Carbon side scoops. I've got suspension done. I'm looking for a set of GT500 brakes but now I want to work on performance some more. I'm running 302 rwhp and 318 rwtq with a 93 octane VMP tune, C&L intake with 88mm maf tube, muffler deletes, UDPs, and CMCVs. I do not want to go with a turbo or s/c. I'm definitely doing nitrous. I'm going to run the ZEX kit, purge, bottle warmer, remote bottle opener, Speed of Sound cup holder switch panel and gauge pillar pods. However what gauges do I need to run? I'm only going to do a 75-100 shot of nitrous.

Here's the next question. Does anyone have any experience with the BBK 62mm twin throttle body? Brenspeed says they are worth 8hp on a n/a car. Anyone have any proof? Part throttle power loss? Etc. Also what about the NSR cams? Anyone got results? I know they've got a peak gain of 27 hp. I'm worried because I've seen first hand the Stage 3 cams cost 30 rwhp power below 3,500 RPMs. I don't want to lose that much part throttle power. It's my daily driver so I like the mileage I'm getting right now.
 
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Brenspeed seems to be pretty respectable and with their tune the throttle body may be fine, but I have never heard anything good about an aftermarket throttle body. The only thing I have seen on forums about them is that they make the check engine light come on. Unless you are running a big blower, I don't think the stock throttle body is very restrictive. I think cams are a relatively expensive installation, so if you are losing as much power down low as you are gaining on the top end, then there probably isn't much point for a daily driver.
 
I can do the install for the NSR Cams. According to someone who has them in his car at Brenspeed, they did not lose much part throttle power. 5 rwtq was lost part throttle but it was gained at peak power. I'm going to give them a shot. I'm thinking about staying away from the TB though. Maybe try a GT500 one out, just to see, after the cams.
 
According to Brenspeed they say to just get a A/F gauge, no need for a fuel pressure gauge, just to run one or the other. But of course a wideband A/F is going to be much more accurate. I'll probably run the Innovative wideband gauge. Of course run a bottle pressure gauge but most of them are mounted on the bottles themselves aren't they? I ordered the Speed of Sound cup holder switch panel though. All black, four switches, and with no gauge or cup holder hole with the custom engraving; Line Lock, N20 Open, N20 Purge, N20 Arm. I can't wait to see how that comes out. I'll be going with their pillar pod as well.

What about an off-road mid pipe or headers?

Ya, I can't decide what I'm doing there. I'm going to do the BBK equal length headers but I can't decide what mid pipe or mufflers. So that's later down the road until I can figure it out.
 
Yeah. I think I would do headers before I would do cams, or both at the same time. Headers and Cams go hand in hand. You will see a much better gain over the whole power band with headers and cams. As far as gauges I would go with what was previously mentioned. Wideband 02, Fuel Pressure and Bottle pressure gauges if you are going to run nitrous. For the love of god get a bottle warmer! :) You need to see around 1k PSI for your nitrous system to work correctly. You can get a Electric bottle pressure gauge that has a sender.
 
Yeah. I think I would do headers before I would do cams, or both at the same time. Headers and Cams go hand in hand. You will see a much better gain over the whole power band with headers and cams. As far as gauges I would go with what was previously mentioned. Wideband 02, Fuel Pressure and Bottle pressure gauges if you are going to run nitrous. For the love of god get a bottle warmer! :) You need to see around 1k PSI for your nitrous system to work correctly.

Trust me, I'm going to do it right the first time. Bottle warmer, remote bottle opener, purge kit, etc. According to what I've read the ZEX kits work correctly at 900 PSI. See my above post, too. :nice:
 
I don't want long tubes because if I do ever go with a turbo than I'll be screwed with clearance issues. Well if I went with that gauge, would I need to get a gauge on the bottle as well? I've never played with nitrous before so I'm shooting in the dark here. :D
 
Even if you went long tubes and decided to go turbo it's not like you couldn't just keep the exhaust you took out and put it back in, or just buy new exhaust for it.

I'd suggest going with long tubes and some 4.10's. I didn't see you mention gears so I'll assume you don't have them. Then look at the cams as with the gears you'll pull into the power band a lot faster.

I made that mistake a long time ago, put a nice set of crane cams into my 5L 81 T-Top Coupe and when I got into the cams it was awesome, with 3.08's it took forever to get into them though. When I got better gears the combo started to mesh a lot better.
 
I'm looking into the FRPP Hot Cams as we speak, my tuner is going to try to get me a set. I'm also considering 4.10s, I like to race high speed SCCA stuff so I'm worried it's not going to be right for the powerband. I've got 3.55s now so 3.73s would be kind of a waste.

I just got back from the hospital so I'm laid up for a while. I had some hardware removed out of my back from when I broke my back.

Isn't nitrous really bad for the engine in comparision to a turbo or sc?

I'm only going to be running a 75 shot which is about an extra 60 rwhp. Remember nitrous is only when you push the button. A s/c or turbo is putting wear and tear on the car 24/7.