I really need you guys help on this one

Soo, some of you may already know my 87 2.3 N/A is having a Major Air/Fuel mixture problem. For those who don't, I have replaced my Fuel injectors, ECT, Air Filter, and It still runs VERY rich. It got even worse with the new fuel injectors. My O2 Sensor is fairly new, but has been moved from one manifold to another. Last time I had the codes checked (about 2 weeks ago) it did not turn up a code for the O2. Could it still be at fault? Could my ECM be causing such a problem? I really really need to get this straightened out, because I only get about 12 mpg right now. That's just insane for one of these motors. Also, after changing injectors, my engine will not go past 5500 rpm. It did just fine before the new injectors. Could this be due to the new injectors? Is it a quality issue? (GP sorenson) Or is the stock wieght not enough for my motor? I'm very disturbed by this. ANY information or opinions from you guys is greatly appreciated.

After a trip to autozone, my car threw the following codes 89 TCC (of course)
87 Neutral saftey switch (another given) and then 63 for TPS Beyond low range limit. And we got a code 31. The computer did not have a code 31. So we checked 41, and it's for the O2. Anybody know if theres really a code 31?

I reckon you could check/adjust your TPS.
Maybe your fuel pressure regulator is bad?

Yeah, I was going to get my dad to bring over his voltimeter tomorrow if he can. I don't have one. It's supposed to be reading 1v at idle, right? (I will check the Regulator in 5 min) Can the regulator really make it run THAT rich? The vacuum hose on the one on my taurus got burned through and mileage got a little worse, but not THAT bad... Still, it could be part of the problem.

EDIT*
Ohhh, if the diaphragm in the regulator is bad, it would be allowing raw gas into the vacuum stream, I.E. into my cylinders... gotcha

Checked the regulator, no gas in vacuum line, but there is a problem. The flange coming off the manifold for the vacuum line is excessivly pinched. I am assuming this is a part of the problem. Should I A: replace the flange or B: re-route the vacuum line? I have another flange availible, but re-routing would be easier for me to do.

I replaced the flange, no difference. I guess I'll be replacing the O2 and the TPS, or at least adjusting the tps. I wish to God this car was OBD II. But wishes don't come true. So, how difficult is it to change out the ECM? I've located the one in my 88, but it looks like I have to take the whole dash out to get it out. Do I? It's not worth that for a couple transmission codes... plus I don't really feel like making the clutch position sensor work again... don't even know where the hell it is these days, I think I discarded it.

might be to high of fuel pressure from the fuel regulator.
that is my first guess.

TF

My guess is the intake gaskets like the EGR,TB, and upper intake.. And maybe yes.. the Fuel pressure regulator..

And maybe your running rich 'cause you go until 5500rpm before shifting?

2.3LXhatch, a code 31 is "EGR valve position (EVP) sensor or PFE sensor - low signal voltage. Or EGR vacuum regulator solenoid circuit problems."

Your problem seems to be EGR related, at least one of them. You might try cleaning the EGR valve first; they tend to get carboned up and quit working.

You can check the O2 sensor with a voltmeter. Find the signal wire, and do a voltage test. It should switch between about .3v and .7v, with an average of about .5v (engine on and idleing). If you read 0v or 1v on the signal wire, the sensor is bad. If you have the two-wire sensor, one wire will be the signal wire, and the other will be the ground wire.

Thanks. My EGR is non functional. I just purchased a voltimeter and would like to test my TPS for proper adjustment, does anyone know A: what range to use B: what my reading should be at idle and C: which wires do I pull from?
My O2 sensors are both pretty new, but if the TPS turns up normal (brand new just installed) then I will definatley check them out. I also purchased a brand new timing light and will be checking that out.

Replace the ACT

Check fuel pressure with a gauge.

I'll have to look up what that is... thanks though!

air charge temp sensor

Air Charge Temperature sensor, Okay, I already replaced that I believe. It's on the firewall side of the lower intake right?

looks like this

Okay, so I just got finished setting my timing. At Base timing, the car runs like total ass. It sputters and back fires when I rev it. I'm using a brand new light. When I plugged back in the DIP switch (or what ever you call that jumper) I noted that the timing mark moved farther back in the revolution, meaning it advanced the timing. The car runs alot better (but still badly) with the timing advanced severly. Anyone know what could cause that? I am seriously starting to lean towards a bad ecm here. ANY input from someone would be greatly appreciated.

DAMN. I just called fairway ford and their tec had no clue. So it's no wonder nobodies answering... Looks like I'm screwed...

gonna throw in a new coil, see what that does...

Motor grounded properly?
color of spark on sparkplugs?
stock injectors?
Cam timing?

does it miss like a cylinder is not running?

Yes on stock injectors, brand new infact. The engine should be grounded properly, as a few days ago I corrected a ground problem that wasn't causing this. The cam gear points at the timing mark ,I checked it with the light to be sure (aimed timing light at cam gear with engine running) I don't quite get what you mean by 'color of spark on sparkplugs' though. If you mean the spark itself, it's blue. The spark pliugs them selves are a little black from carbon, but not fouled. The best way I can describe what it's doing is sputtering. It acts like my bronco did when it's cap and rotor where bad. I am about to change those now, but doubt it's the problem. It was not the ignition coil.