Installing JBA Shorty Headers

Discussion in 'SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech' started by BlackenedSVT, May 16, 2005.


  1. 007

    007 Founding Member

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    Were you really dumb enough to pay those prices!!! :shrug:
     
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  2. BlackenedSVT

    BlackenedSVT Active Member

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    Yeah thats what I was thinking. I would have done it myself for those prices :nonono:
     
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  3. KronicRacer

    KronicRacer New Member

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    im sorry dude but you got :owned: :nonono:
     
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  4. BlackenedSVT

    BlackenedSVT Active Member

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    Ok so the headers are getting installed this weekend. I'm doing it bymyself I think, POSSIBLY with a friend. So hopefully all goes well.

    Other than the Motor Mounts, is the Engine connected to the K-member, or the trans at all? And do you guys LIFT or DROP the engine once its disconnected in order to install the headers? Or can you just leave it where it is once the K is removed?

    Will I need to buy new header bolts for the studs if the old ones are too rusted? Did anyone run into this problem? I'm just trying to pre-plan all of my dissasters for saturday :rlaugh:

    Also, did anyone have to re-route their dipstick tube? :shrug:
     
    #64
  5. stangman

    stangman Well-Known Member

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    the way i do it is i support the engine with a jack & a big block of wood. it looks like this
    [​IMG]

    DO NOT drop the k-member without having the engine & tranny supported
     
    #65
  6. BlackenedSVT

    BlackenedSVT Active Member

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    Thanks for the advice, but did you DROP or LIFT the engien to install the headers? Is it hard to align the engine with the trans again once you unhook it and drop or raise it?

    Do you have to disconnect the transmission from the engine at all?

    How did you support the engine? with JUST the jack? It actually balanaced on that alone? ...and with the jack there you still had the room to work?
     
    #66
  7. stangman

    stangman Well-Known Member

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    what i do is i get that block of wood & half of it is supporting the tranny & half is supporting the engine (no need to disconnect engine/tranny). then after i raise the jack far enough up that it makes contact with the oil pan & tranny, & then i go one click farther so it's lifted a small bit. the engine isn't moved at all, it basically stays in the exact same place. :nice:
     
    #67
  8. mity2

    mity2 I like Pro3 and all I got was this crappy CT.

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    well, if u don't know where the starter is, just go ahed and take off H pipe without disconnecting negative batt terminal. I'm sure one WILL find out where it is..
     
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  9. BlackenedSVT

    BlackenedSVT Active Member

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    Well like I said, after removing and installing two 350 Chevy Engines last week for a friend, and installing one back into his other truck, I now know most of hte parts to the engine so I think im more than capable to do this install.

    Just need some other advice

    Like: Where can i get a 13mm "S" wrench from? No one sells them!!!!
     
    #69
  10. Rocketman

    Rocketman New Member

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    I got mine here. http://www.harborfreight.com/

    The design of the JBA Shorty's is different than the BBK shorty's that I did and needed the S wrench for. It still might come in handy for JBA's though.
     
    #70
  11. BlackenedSVT

    BlackenedSVT Active Member

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    Awesome! I just sent you a PM asking you this, sorry about that.
     
    #71
  12. BlackenedSVT

    BlackenedSVT Active Member

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    So if I go the "Wont remove the K-member" route, do you guys think I will need to remove my Strut Tower Brace at all? I would REALLY, REALLY love to NOT have to remove that :rolleyes:
     
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  13. BlackenedSVT

    BlackenedSVT Active Member

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    where do you disconnect the steering shaft from the sterring rack, anyone have pics?
     
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  14. 02BlkStang

    02BlkStang New Member

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    All that work and money for ~4rwhp isn't worth it IMO.

    Long tubes or nothing, and our stock manifolds are good until around 300rwhp anyways. You'd be a lot better off getting a T/A or some UD Pullies.
     
    #74
  15. Rocketman

    Rocketman New Member

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    If you don't drop the K-member, you have to jack the engine up about an inch or a little more. If you have close clearance around you STB, you might have to remove it. When you jack the engine up, see if you have enough room to reach the manifold studs/nuts. If you don't then off goes the STB.
     
    #75
  16. BlackenedSVT

    BlackenedSVT Active Member

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    Dude, HAVE YOU READ THE LAST 3 PAGES???

    I already have the headres and got them for FREE practically so they are getting installed... And shorty headers give more like 10-15rwhp not 4 :rolleyes:
     
    #76
  17. Rocketman

    Rocketman New Member

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    Loosen the bolt on the steering shaft and pull the steering shaft away from the steering rack.
     
    #77
  18. mity2

    mity2 I like Pro3 and all I got was this crappy CT.

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    no offense, but who told you that shorty is good for 10~15RWHP??
    that would mean shorty would add about15~20 at the crank.

    Man is that mean when I add my BBK LT header, i would get almost 30~35rwhp??
     
    #78
  19. MT1083

    MT1083 New Member

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    I just saw a 13mm "s" wrench at autozone.
     
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  20. BlackenedSVT

    BlackenedSVT Active Member

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    A bit under 30rwhp with LT...yes thats what im saying

    More like 10rwhp for the shorties and like 20+ish for the LTs

    EDIT: And as I said before THEY WERE FREE, so even *IF* they WERE 4rwhp, its free, dont you think its worth the time to install????

    EDIT 2:
    http://www.mustangtuning.com/slp46dolotuh.html
    Yeah sooo no offense but, stick that in your pipe and smoke it...
     
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