Installing JBA Shorty Headers

[007]

this may help you decide. in the ft.worth
dallas texas area the labor charge on a header install is $1400.00 i know my limitations and had it done. i had long tubes installed and about 3 months later
my throw out bearing went out and to
get the tranny out the headers had to be
taken off. yep, another $1400,00 plus
the cost of a clutch job. no more long tubes for me. i dont care how much better they are.

Were you really dumb enough to pay those prices!!!

 

[BlackenedSVT]

Were you really dumb enough to pay those prices!!!

Yeah thats what I was thinking. I would have done it myself for those prices

 

[KronicRacer]

this may help you decide. in the ft.worth
dallas texas area the labor charge on a header install is $1400.00 i know my limitations and had it done. i had long tubes installed and about 3 months later
my throw out bearing went out and to
get the tranny out the headers had to be
taken off. yep, another $1400,00 plus
the cost of a clutch job. no more long tubes for me. i dont care how much better they are.

im sorry dude but you got

 

[BlackenedSVT]

Ok so the headers are getting installed this weekend. I'm doing it bymyself I think, POSSIBLY with a friend. So hopefully all goes well.

Other than the Motor Mounts, is the Engine connected to the K-member, or the trans at all? And do you guys LIFT or DROP the engine once its disconnected in order to install the headers? Or can you just leave it where it is once the K is removed?

Will I need to buy new header bolts for the studs if the old ones are too rusted? Did anyone run into this problem? I'm just trying to pre-plan all of my dissasters for saturday

Also, did anyone have to re-route their dipstick tube?

 

[stangman]

the way i do it is i support the engine with a jack & a big block of wood. it looks like this

DO NOT drop the k-member without having the engine & tranny supported

 

[BlackenedSVT]

the way i do it is i support the engine with a jack & a big block of wood. it looks like this

DO NOT drop the k-member without having the engine & tranny supported

Thanks for the advice, but did you DROP or LIFT the engien to install the headers? Is it hard to align the engine with the trans again once you unhook it and drop or raise it?

Do you have to disconnect the transmission from the engine at all?

How did you support the engine? with JUST the jack? It actually balanaced on that alone? ...and with the jack there you still had the room to work?

 

[stangman]

Thanks for the advice, but did you DROP or LIFT the engien to install the headers? Is it hard to align the engine with the trans again once you unhook it and drop or raise it?

Do you have to disconnect the transmission from the engine at all?

How did you support the engine? with JUST the jack? It actually balanaced on that alone? ...and with the jack there you still had the room to work?

what i do is i get that block of wood & half of it is supporting the tranny & half is supporting the engine (no need to disconnect engine/tranny). then after i raise the jack far enough up that it makes contact with the oil pan & tranny, & then i go one click farther so it's lifted a small bit. the engine isn't moved at all, it basically stays in the exact same place.

 

[mity2]

Wow, can't beleive the naysayers here.

Header installs are not technically hard, as said above they are just time consuming. As for his question, the starter is kindof hidden and I'm sure alot of people don't know where it is. It is located on the passenger side of the engine right next to where the header and H-pipe come together. You have to remove the H-pipe to get to the starter.

well, if u don't know where the starter is, just go ahed and take off H pipe without disconnecting negative batt terminal. I'm sure one WILL find out where it is..

 

[BlackenedSVT]

Well like I said, after removing and installing two 350 Chevy Engines last week for a friend, and installing one back into his other truck, I now know most of hte parts to the engine so I think im more than capable to do this install.

Just need some other advice

Like: Where can i get a 13mm "S" wrench from? No one sells them!!!!

 

[Rocketman]

Well like I said, after removing and installing two 350 Chevy Engines last week for a friend, and installing one back into his other truck, I now know most of hte parts to the engine so I think im more than capable to do this install.

Just need some other advice

Like: Where can i get a 13mm "S" wrench from? No one sells them!!!!

I got mine here. http://www.harborfreight.com/

The design of the JBA Shorty's is different than the BBK shorty's that I did and needed the S wrench for. It still might come in handy for JBA's though.

 

[BlackenedSVT]

I got mine here. http://www.harborfreight.com/

The design of the JBA Shorty's is different than the BBK shorty's that I did and needed the S wrench for. It still might come in handy for JBA's though.

Awesome! I just sent you a PM asking you this, sorry about that.

 

[BlackenedSVT]

So if I go the "Wont remove the K-member" route, do you guys think I will need to remove my Strut Tower Brace at all? I would REALLY, REALLY love to NOT have to remove that

 

[BlackenedSVT]

where do you disconnect the steering shaft from the sterring rack, anyone have pics?

 

[02BlkStang]

All that work and money for ~4rwhp isn't worth it IMO.

Long tubes or nothing, and our stock manifolds are good until around 300rwhp anyways. You'd be a lot better off getting a T/A or some UD Pullies.

 

[Rocketman]

So if I go the "Wont remove the K-member" route, do you guys think I will need to remove my Strut Tower Brace at all? I would REALLY, REALLY love to NOT have to remove that

If you don't drop the K-member, you have to jack the engine up about an inch or a little more. If you have close clearance around you STB, you might have to remove it. When you jack the engine up, see if you have enough room to reach the manifold studs/nuts. If you don't then off goes the STB.

 

[BlackenedSVT]

All that work and money for ~4rwhp isn't worth it IMO.

Long tubes or nothing, and our stock manifolds are good until around 300rwhp anyways. You'd be a lot better off getting a T/A or some UD Pullies.

Dude, HAVE YOU READ THE LAST 3 PAGES???

I already have the headres and got them for FREE practically so they are getting installed... And shorty headers give more like 10-15rwhp not 4

 

[Rocketman]

where do you disconnect the steering shaft from the sterring rack, anyone have pics?

Loosen the bolt on the steering shaft and pull the steering shaft away from the steering rack.

 

[mity2]

And shorty headers give more like 10-15rwhp not 4

no offense, but who told you that shorty is good for 10~15RWHP??
that would mean shorty would add about15~20 at the crank.

Man is that mean when I add my BBK LT header, i would get almost 30~35rwhp??

 

[MT1083]

I just saw a 13mm "s" wrench at autozone.

 

[BlackenedSVT]

no offense, but who told you that shorty is good for 10~15RWHP??
that would mean shorty would add about15~20 at the crank.

Man is that mean when I add my BBK LT header, i would get almost 30~35rwhp??

A bit under 30rwhp with LT...yes thats what im saying

More like 10rwhp for the shorties and like 20+ish for the LTs

EDIT: And as I said before THEY WERE FREE, so even *IF* they WERE 4rwhp, its free, dont you think its worth the time to install????

EDIT 2:
http://www.mustangtuning.com/slp46dolotuh.html

Provides dyno-proven increases of over 30 rear-wheel hp when paired with one of our matching "shorty"-style X-pipes

Yeah sooo no offense but, stick that in your pipe and smoke it...