Installing Steeda Under Drive Pulleys

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Removing the factory crank pully was a total pita.

I did manage to use a threaded puller, but it was not easy.
I used a socket as a spacer, and the threaded puller screw was short enough to fit between the crank pully and the radiator.

Lost some knuckle skin.... but the pullies are a nice mod.
 
mpentico said:
Removing the factory crank pully was a total pita.

I did manage to use a threaded puller, but it was not easy.
I used a socket as a spacer, and the threaded puller screw was short enough to fit between the crank pully and the radiator.

Lost some knuckle skin.... but the pullies are a nice mod.
how did you do that if there are no threaded holes in the crank pulley?? :shrug:
 
bigcat said:
how did you do that if there are no threaded holes in the crank pulley?? :shrug:

Sorry, it has been awhile...... memories have faded, scars have not.

I used the 3/8" drive socket as a spacer between the center bolt of the puller and the center of the crankshaft. The socket allowed for better seating on the crank, so the face and possibly the threads of the crank would not get damaged. I was using a standard jaw style puller. The socket allowed the jaws to be on the same plane as the face/lip of the crank pully. Like I wrote before, space was tight since the socket was actually an extension of the pullers center bolt. Too long of a bolt/socket combo and you cant fit between the crank and the radiator.

Man it would have been much easier if Ford would have just threaded the pully like previous models.

Good luck!
 
Use a 3.5" or 4" 3 jaw puller with the jaws facing inward.
First remove the crank bolt and take out the washer. Re-insert the bolt so that the center pin of the 3 jaw is resting on the head of the bolt instead of the crankshaft snout. It's amazing how many people screw up the threads on the crank. Use RTV in the keyway of the new pulley to prevent oil leaks.