intercooler setup

Night Shifter

Well-Known Member
Dec 24, 2005
1,710
27
59
Daytona
When i bought my vortech i thought it said it came with an intercooler, but i was so anxious to get it i didn't realize it said without... oops... anyway what intercoolers are you guys running? i found a few but not sure if they would work or not so maybe some of you could help me out? i'm trying to spend as less of money as i can but if needed i'll put down the 400 for a nice one

1) obviously one from vortech
2) my buddy is selling the stock IC off his SRT4... will that work?
3) found a 4'' thick one on ebay from CXRacing? $79

will the srt4 IC work?if not, if i buy the cheap ebay intercooler will i even be able to run high boost with it? Also, do the inlet and outlet tubes have to be on opposite sides or can they be on the same side? I don't really know much about these things so any help you can give me would be greatly appreciated...:SNSign:
 
  • Sponsors (?)


You have got to understand something .

The intercooler is seperate from the heat exchanger and reservoir.
There are 3 major pieces to a properly functioning cooler setup.

Intercooler , Reservoir w/ pump , Heat Exchanger.

An SRT intercooler will not work.

I actually have a Kenne Bell Intercooler because I have a roots setup. Then I opted for the Lightning Force Performance Heat Exchanger and then once I relocated my battery to the trunk I had room to put a Vortech Reservoir up front.
 
I ran through the same experience as you. Bought the blower directly from Vortech, didn't think about the aftercooler. Vortech recommends the water to air aftercooler. My stang only made 300 to the wheels.

I found that $1700 aftercooler on Ebay one day at $500 buy it now. Well, I ripped out the plastic and snagged the SOB.

Got it installed, upped my MAF to a 90MM lightning that was sitting in my closet, changed the pulley, added a boostapump, kept my 38lbs injectors and simply increased fuel rail pressure with a new sensor and made 427 to the wheels.

Water to air is what I've got. It's what I have to suggest. Deals are what you have to look for.
 
You have got to understand something .

The intercooler is seperate from the heat exchanger and reservoir.
There are 3 major pieces to a properly functioning cooler setup.

Intercooler , Reservoir w/ pump , Heat Exchanger.

An SRT intercooler will not work.

I actually have a Kenne Bell Intercooler because I have a roots setup. Then I opted for the Lightning Force Performance Heat Exchanger and then once I relocated my battery to the trunk I had room to put a Vortech Reservoir up front.

Not the case with a centri blower. You dont need a resevoir or heat exchanger.

SaleenGT2001 is correct. Go with air to air for a mostly street stang. If its only a track car, then the water to air is the way to go because you can dump ice in it. I'm running a paxton a/a with my vortech
 
Thanks for the info guys.. i was thinking about air to water but, i liked the look of the front mount a lot better.. plus i heard you could boost higher with an intercooler.. whether that's tru or not i don't know....

the car is pretty much gonna be a street car so i'm gonna stick with a front mout.. i'm either gonna get the same one SaleenGT01 has since he's boosting the hell outa his car and i know it can stand up to the pressure, or i might go with the paxton a/a cause i know of a few people on here running them and they don't seem to be having problems..

thanks for the move to tech... wasn't sure where to put this one
 
Not the case with a centri blower. You dont need a resevoir or heat exchanger.

SaleenGT2001 is correct. Go with air to air for a mostly street stang. If its only a track car, then the water to air is the way to go because you can dump ice in it. I'm running a paxton a/a with my vortech

Yep, you are right. Just speaking from my roots experience.
Centri are somewhat different. Good info Spederman. :nice:
 
treadstone makes a good IC. mine is holding up to 23 psi and being frozen with N2O and not having any problems.

they are a little more expensive, but worth it!!

I just checked Treadstone web site, is the TR10 what your using? Also how would I find the specs on what tubing I would need to plumb it? I'm running a power pipe but that should not be too much of an issue right? Thanks man.
 
Well im going to have to disagree with the popular opinion on intercoolers. You do not by any means need to be an expensive intercooler....not most people anyways.

CXracing is actually a good company...lots of good stuff said about them. As long as its a bar and plate design intercooler, it will flow well. I seriously doubt you would see a difference with their IC and once from a top tier company....not at your level. It would show up when you get to the point where your moving massive amounts of air at high boost levels.

For my talon...ill be getting a CXracing IC. And also remember that my old TT GT had a ebay IC...I made 550RWHP W 11.9 PSI with it....my IATs would go up a max of 4*s in a full 3rd gear pull. It was rediculous how cool it kept the IATs.
 
sweet, cause my buddy is using a CXRacing in his cobalt and it's handling boost pretty well... and it's CHEAP lol... you think it would be fine around 15-18psi? and yes the block is in the process of being built to handle the power

off topic but hotmustang how's that talon run and handle? i'm getting ready to go look at a 98 awd talon tsi that supposedly is puttin down 330 to the wheels... i'm really into buying it but since you have one, would you reccomend it was a good buy?
 
sweet, cause my buddy is using a CXRacing in his cobalt and it's handling boost pretty well... and it's CHEAP lol... you think it would be fine around 15-18psi? and yes the block is in the process of being built to handle the power

off topic but hotmustang how's that talon run and handle? i'm getting ready to go look at a 98 awd talon tsi that supposedly is puttin down 330 to the wheels... i'm really into buying it but since you have one, would you reccomend it was a good buy?

Well it really depends on what you want it for....overall the 98s will drive and handle much much better than say my 92. The problem comes in with the engine itself if your buying it to make it really fast....those are 7 bolt engines (seem prone to crank walk...but generally only after super high mileage or when your making alot of power with a strong clutch), weaker rods, and heads that flow far less. However...the engine is still good for around 400AWHP before it turns into a time bomb. 330 AWHP would make for a good daily driver that you can beat on without worry.

Now as far as reliability....im not too sure. I hear the 1G (first gen) are not reliable....but not sure about the 2Gs like that one. I would just recommend going to a site like this 4G63T 2G 350-400whp long Block- Where? - DSM Forums

and read up on them.

I havnt even got to drive my talon yet, since I picked it up dirt cheap...not running. (got it to run before I tore her down though) Turns out the retard previous owners broke the block where the trans bolts up. Installed the clutch backwards and apparently just kept tightning the trans bolts until the block gave way.
I think thats a big problem with reliability....previous owners who didnt take care of their vehicles.

As far as good buy goes....depends on the cost. But they are fun little toys....and it is AWD so you wont regret that. FWD...Traction sucks. If the price is right....I would say test drive it and if all checks out, go for it. But remember to read the forums so you know what to look for.



And yes cxracing IC would be fine @ that boost....just measure your front bumper opening and see what the biggest IC you can stuff in there is. Try and get a 3.5 inch thick core if you can...4inch can drop the velocity of the ambient air flow through the core and may actually hurt performance.