Black95GTS
Active Member
I agree MS is over kill... however, I seem to recall a thread that had Don LaSota contributing that mentioned he would change around 60 parameters even if the car was completely stock!
Adam
Build Thread Jamee's Build Up Thread
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I agree MS is over kill... however, I seem to recall a thread that had Don LaSota contributing that mentioned he would change around 60 parameters even if the car was completely stock!
Adam
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what would be the point in getting a tune for a couple hundred or getting a tweecer for $500 when I can get an entire ECM for 200+/- and program it all myself?
Adam95GT
New Member
I've looked around with no luck, is there anyway to change the tachometer in the v6 gaues to work for the v8?
And my push rods are too short, they're 6.25" but tightening the rocker to 20lbs leaves play in there. How do I figure out the right length of push rod to use?
And my push rods are too short, they're 6.25" but tightening the rocker to 20lbs leaves play in there. How do I figure out the right length of push rod to use?
alleymad95GT
Member
I don't have roller rockers so that method didn't work
, but thankyouquestion: what's the hole on the passenger front side of the intake? do I just plug it?
99FiveOh
10 Year Member
Looking good!
From what I can see you may have some issues with your pulleys all lining up correctly. I see a mixture of SN95 and Fox bracketry and accessories, which both had different pulley spacing from the block. I'm sure you can come up with a solution if this problem arises though.
From what I can see you may have some issues with your pulleys all lining up correctly. I see a mixture of SN95 and Fox bracketry and accessories, which both had different pulley spacing from the block. I'm sure you can come up with a solution if this problem arises though.
alternator is the only accessory that's from a mustang, rest are from a truck, so hopefully I won't have issues
Zero Signal
Active Member
alternator is the only accessory that's from a mustang, rest are from a truck, so hopefully I won't have issues
Looks like you're making great progress thus far. Don't get too excited though, as the details you have left will prove to be 90% of the entire project. All the small things like vacuum lines, power steering, A/C, fuel system, ignition coil, the massive amount of wiring etc. will bog it down, so just be ready to deal with that. Then it has to crank and start up.
I'm really impressed by this project, but it's a colossal project for sure. I'd really like to see it followed through with and I would like to see how cheaply you can get it done. So far you look like you've done better than most would on the money spending part
$3100 so far, but I've ordered cosmetic things that aren't necessary (wheels, taillights, projector headlights etc)Looks like you're making great progress thus far. Don't get too excited though, as the details you have left will prove to be 90% of the entire project. All the small things like vacuum lines, power steering, A/C, fuel system, ignition coil, the massive amount of wiring etc. will bog it down, so just be ready to deal with that. Then it has to crank and start up.
I'm really impressed by this project, but it's a colossal project for sure. I'd really like to see it followed through with and I would like to see how cheaply you can get it done. So far you look like you've done better than most would on the money spending part
any idea where I should mount my coil? I can't mount it like the typical mustangs because I have a different accessory setup, and the prior engine setup mounted it next to the intake, which is now covered by the explorer intake:
Zero Signal
Active Member
You can probably just keep it where it's at and bend that bracket down away from the plenum or mod it to mount to the shock tower or something. You'll need to modify the driver side branch of the engine wiring harness in order to route the coil power/signal plug to the new location.
Also, I noticed that you capped off the heater line hole in the lower intake behind the t-stat housing and relocated the temp sensor. Where did you put the other temp sensor?
Also, I noticed that you capped off the heater line hole in the lower intake behind the t-stat housing and relocated the temp sensor. Where did you put the other temp sensor?
The temp sensor went into the intake manifold on the driver's side. Are there 2 temp sensors? My harness doesn't have a wire for one right there..
Mocked up some fog lights
Need to fix ground wire, figure out throttle linkage, install steering pump, then install radiator and hoses etc
99FiveOh
10 Year Member
There is a water temp sender (for your gauge) which is on the driver side, then an ECT (for the computer to read). which goes in the hole near the thermostat housing.
Zero Signal
Active Member
The plug for the gauge sensor is small, just like the one that plugs into the oil pressure sender behind the water pump. It's not critical to getting the motor started, but you will need it nonetheless. If you don't see a plug floating around in there, I have to wonder what harness you're using?
99FiveOh
10 Year Member
Jamee, do us a favor and I've noticed you have done this throughout this build. Please don't go back and edit your posts when you've asked questions (like edit the pics/questions out of the post) as it makes it difficult for us to go back and remember what the discussion is about. For instance, I know there was a pic of your engine up there with a question about the locations of sensors/plugs. We can't get a good visual of what you're working with now because you've gotten rid of the picture.
Now, every single EFI engine since the beginning of EFI in the 80's has used an Engine Coolant Temp (ect) sensor. The computer must use this VERY ACCURATE sensor to adjust A/F ratios and such. The other sensor/sending unit is merely for monitoring your engines temp for the driver, it doesn't have to be accurate down to a degree point. This is why when that ECT sensor goes bad it can wreak all kinds of havoc on performance/drivability especially in our cars!
Somewhere on your harness is a plug for that other ECT sensor. If you don't have that sensor, go to the parts place and get one, then look for a plug on the harness that will fit it. You can also look up the vehicle that motor came out of and see where it's ECT sensor was because sometimes its in a different location.
Now, every single EFI engine since the beginning of EFI in the 80's has used an Engine Coolant Temp (ect) sensor. The computer must use this VERY ACCURATE sensor to adjust A/F ratios and such. The other sensor/sending unit is merely for monitoring your engines temp for the driver, it doesn't have to be accurate down to a degree point. This is why when that ECT sensor goes bad it can wreak all kinds of havoc on performance/drivability especially in our cars!
Somewhere on your harness is a plug for that other ECT sensor. If you don't have that sensor, go to the parts place and get one, then look for a plug on the harness that will fit it. You can also look up the vehicle that motor came out of and see where it's ECT sensor was because sometimes its in a different location.
Zero Signal
Active Member
It looks like the ECT is there, it's just mounted where the temp sender goes. The ECT plug is hanging there too, but the wiring there doesn't look factory (it's much longer), so it must have been modified or it's the wrong harness ( I hope it's the right harness).
ohhhh okay
you guys are talking about the temp SENSOR (not sender), on the explorer intake that's on the driver's side so I extended the wires to work over there, as for the temp SENDER, I'm going to assume that goes on the passenger side?
you guys are talking about the temp SENSOR (not sender), on the explorer intake that's on the driver's side so I extended the wires to work over there, as for the temp SENDER, I'm going to assume that goes on the passenger side?
