King Cobra Build in Oregon

  • Sponsors (?)


Found a story on the Mustang II.ORG site. Interesting story. Used the 351 block from Australia. Seems this block had thicker walls.

Started to install the fuel tank today. Using VDO gauges which uses a VDO fuel tank sending unit. Need to convert to the sending unit style to the OEM Mustang style. Then I forgot where I put the plastic vent valve that goes on the top of the tank. Put the old one where I would not lose it.....................Went on to another project. Install my reverse camera. Putting the camera up on the back window then aligning it with the rear window louver so I can see out the back.

I purchased the fiberglass front bumper cover Classic Auto REproductions. Will be installing this in a couple of weeks. Now I am wondering how this is installed???? Perhaps making a new bumper metal bumper support to replace the heavy OEM steel support? Or cutting the ends off and mounting the new cover? Anyone who has done this, I am hoping you have many photos and such.

Regarding my T-Top project. Found a retired machinest/welder around the corner. As if he could do some slicing and welding. Said he'd be happy to this. Need to wait until August. Said he is thinking of going back to work to get some time off... :) Will cut the front off the parts car and use this to replace the front of the T-Top.

He drives a 1960 Ranchero............his wife's car....
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users
Then I forgot where I put the plastic vent valve that goes on the top of the tank. Put the old one where I would not lose it.....................
I have found out that for the upper vent VW T3 bus parts fit with the part number 251201311B and N90100501 for the grommet. Advantage over my 74 original one is that it has a check ball, that will prevent fuel running trough. I think float valve is the right wording.
But hopefully you find the one you have. It would be interesting to me, if yours has also a float valve or not.
I purchased the fiberglass front bumper cover Classic Auto REproductions. Will be installing this in a couple of weeks. Now I am wondering how this is installed???? Perhaps making a new bumper metal bumper support to replace the heavy OEM steel support? Or cutting the ends off and mounting the new cover? Anyone who has done this, I am hoping you have many photos and such.
I think on this forum was a very nice build of a orange t-top with a lot of pics. If I remember correctly there where some pictures how the solve that. I'm sure @LILCBRA knows the build.
 
  • Ah yes, I see.  I see.
Reactions: 1 user
I have found out that for the upper vent VW T3 bus parts fit with the part number 251201311B and N90100501 for the grommet. Advantage over my 74 original one is that it has a check ball, that will prevent fuel running trough. I think float valve is the right wording.
But hopefully you find the one you have. It would be interesting to me, if yours has also a float valve or not.

I think on this forum was a very nice build of a orange t-top with a lot of pics. If I remember correctly there where some pictures how the solve that. I'm sure @LILCBRA knows the build.

The only orange car with that kind of stuff on it that I can think of at the moment is the one that was featured on All Girls Garage on Motor Trend TV(?). They used a bunch of Classic Auto Reproduction parts including their hood with the Torino scoop grafted/molded into it.

IMG_5180.jpeg
FB_IMG_1686358133025.jpg
FB_IMG_1686358137022.jpg


I have a fiberglass back bumper sitting in my shed waiting for me, but I'm kinda in the same boat; I'm not exactly sure how to go about mounting it. I've seen different people use carriage bolts straight through the fiberglass and mount it that way, although I'm not sure if they reused the old bumper bar or if they used anything at all. I don't like that idea personally UNLESS you were to somehow glass over the bolt head and hide it. :shrug:
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
I purchased the fiberglass front bumper cover Classic Auto REproductions
I installed this on mine and just glued it the original oem support with automotive grade
closed cell foam

I've seen different people use carriage bolts straight through the fiberglass and mount it that way,
Yup that was me. The bolt was just insurance.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users
Found out my wife is jealous about my t-top. Seems she said since I have two Mustangs and she only now has a 2002 Thunderbird, She just bought a 2024 Mustang GT. She had ordered one with the 4cyl Turbo, but Wednesday we went back and she upgraded hers to a V8 and bunch of additional options. On the way home we stopped at AutoZone and she bought me a new bucket, sponge and large bottle of Blue Coral car wash............:thinking:
 
  • Haha
  • Hell Yeah!
  • Like
Reactions: 3 users
Found out my wife is jealous about my t-top. Seems she said since I have two Mustangs and she only now has a 2002 Thunderbird, She just bought a 2024 Mustang GT. She had ordered one with the 4cyl Turbo, but Wednesday we went back and she upgraded hers to a V8 and bunch of additional options. On the way home we stopped at AutoZone and she bought me a new bucket, sponge and large bottle of Blue Coral car wash............:thinking:

Should ask her if you're supposed to wash her car in a Speedo....
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users
Last time I wore a speedo she ripped it off cut it into small pieces and said "don't do that again"..........I thought I looked pretty good in it when I bought it..............about 40 years ago....:coff:
Maybe her tastes have changed and she'll love it now! ;)

Either that or it'll get you out of washing her car. :rlaugh:
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
Mean while back in the shop a frustrated owner beats his head on the fender of the T-Top Mustang. Looking for information regarding removing and replacing the inner fender apron. Anyone have a link or information? Trying to get started on removing the aprons on my parts car. Also, getting several different recommendations. Cut the damaged portion or remove entire panel. I still have the engine in the parts car and have figured I need to remove the engine before I can take the entire panel off.
 
I've not done anything like that on a II, but I have on a Fox. I can only guess that it's a somewhat similar process if you wanted to replace the whole panel. It's fairly involved, but wasn't horribly difficult. And yes, it's most helpful to have the engine removed and out of the way. I drilled all of the spot welds then used an air hammer and chisel where necessary to separate the panels. In my case, it was a frame rail, but the process is similar. Here's a few pics of what I did, hopefully it'll help you.


7166990235_744a126bd2_k.jpg


7166988209_1ed8fd0b4f_k.jpg


7352197460_d88325d22a_k.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users
King Cobra Question. A friend in Washington (state) find a 78 King Cobra. Been sitting for 10 years. No decals on top or hood. Said the front spoiler and side spats have Ford part numbers. No buck tag on core support. What should be be looking for i addition to confirm this is a King Cobra? does ot have time to do a marty report thing....Any ideas? thanks