Hey guys, I'm stumped here. This past Saturday I hopped in to go for a cruise, turned the key like normal everything was fine. The car cranked over and started for about 1/2 a second and died and I lost everything right when it fired. It was almost like something popped. Now I have absolutely nothing, like the battery is disconnected. So far I've taken the battery in for a load test it passed, and cleaned the terminals for good measure even though they weren't dirty to begin with. I sent my computer to Neo last year and had all 3 capacitors replaced, but pulled it and checked it just to be sure and everything looks good. I'm in the process of checking the fusible links, still trying to figure out which one would cause the car to lose all power so far none of them look cooked. Any help would be appreciated thanks!
Electrical Lost all power after trying to start
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If you lose all power, such as no lights or any electrical power at all, it points to a bad connection.
What happens is you have a weak connection and when you put a high load across it (like starting the car), it arcs and breaks the weak connection and you lose all power.
So, really you need to go through your main power and grounds and verify everything is clean and tight.
What happens is you have a weak connection and when you put a high load across it (like starting the car), it arcs and breaks the weak connection and you lose all power.
So, really you need to go through your main power and grounds and verify everything is clean and tight.
Still not getting anything, I double checked the block ground and cleaned it, ground strap on the back of the intake is clean and intact. Loosened, checked, and re-tightened the solenoid connections those are clean and the solenoid is fairly new only a few months old I replaced it a while back. Ignition switch looks good I replaced that last year with the new wiring pigtail. Accessory ground plug coming off the negative battery cable is clean and the bolt on the fender apron is clean.
But if you measure at the starter solenoid to chassis ground, how many volts do you get there? Do you have 12v to chassis?
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I'll check that today, I didn't put the meter on it yesterday but checked the connections. It's also brand new, I had 2 incidents with runaway starts on the factory starter, both luckily happened at home in the garage. But I'd had enough so I put the SVE mini starter on it with it's own solenoid to take the load off the factory one.
I have power across the solenoid 12.5V same as battery, no power at the fuse panel, no power at the yellow wires on ignition switch, didn't have much time yesterday, I'll measure more today.
Just for good measure, have you pulled all the connections off the starter solenoid and cleaned up the terminal ends with some light sandpaper?
It's an '88, any chance you know which fusible link would cause it to lose all power? Ignition switch is good I checked that yesterday for good measure, I replaced it last year so everything is tight and brand new under the column. It definitely felt like something popped the way it cranked and started and then just immediately died and then absolutely nothing. I ran a continuity test on the 16ga black wire in/black wire out link because it has wires starting to expose on one side of the rubber link, it passed but I'm going to replace that one anyway so I don't have future problems down the road.
Hey guys just wanted to update, found the problem, traced it all the way back to inside the heat shrink at the eyelet connector that goes on the positive side of the starter solenoid the wire was burned up inside. Previous owner monkey bs wiring garbage. Side note who do yall usually order from with fusible links, I have one where wire is staring to expose out of the rubber piece and I'd like to go ahead and replace it so it doesn't rear its ugly head later on. I haven't checked NPD normally they sell niche electrical stuff like that.
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