LOWERING?

I want to lower my 06GT. I went into a local JBA shop and asked some questions about lowering the stang. I got from the conversation that it will cost around 1200.00 dollars to do the job the right way. I was looking at the Eibach pro springs. Then he said I would need something else to correct the camber. All in all it seems like alot of money for the whole thing. I am not out to race on a track. I want to lower it to lose the big gap in the well. So.. My question to you guys is... Is there a way to lower the car without spending 1200.00 ? I would like to retain the stock ride as much as possible. This is more for looks than anything. If this is a stupid question I apologize in advance. Thanks, Jim

So what exactly were they doing for $1200?

There are a few things that you need to do to lower a car correctly. Springs will cost you $200-250. A panhard bar is another must have item that's another ~$140. The panhard bar will center the rear axle once lowered. Than you'll need to have the car aligned at an alignment shop. I'd say that's the bare minimum that you need to do. An Adj. UCA would be a good idea because it'd correct the pinon angle but there are plenty of cars running around without them with zero issues.

Personally, I'd spend a little bit more money and do shocks at the same time as the springs so you don't have to tear into it again. I'm running the Tokico D-Specs and couldn't be any happier. I mean there is tons of stuff to do suspension wise and it's just a matter of how far you want to go.

If you just want to go for looks and go on the cheap get yourself a pair of Roush rear springs and do the install yourself. It'll even out the way the car sits and overall give it a better look then stock and it won't break your bank.

This is how my car looked with just the Roush rears.

For a mild drop like the Eibach Pro Kit:

Front: The front may align without anything needed. The options are offset bolts for about $40 to realign the frt. end or more expensive caster/camber plates.

Rear: As mentioned, you may need an ADJUSTABLE panhard bar to recenter the rear end and an ADJUSTABLE upper control arm to reset the pinion angle.

You can buy shocks/struts now or wait for the stockers to crap out. Their life will be shortened as they are not designed for the lowering springs. I would steer away from adjustable shocks unless you run it at a track; they can blow out and most people never adjust them after the initial install anyway, so why spend the extra money.

A note on the caster/camber plates for the frt. end: these replace the disposable upper strut mount which will sometimes start to pop on lowered cars.

Thanks guys! Hats off to Stangnet! Every time I have had a question this site helps more than I can tell you. So thanks again, Jim

I have the prokit myself and had to get camber bolts for the front end alignment, I did drive the car for about 20k miles with no panhard bar and it didn't hurt anything but I never realized I needed it until i got new wheels and one side stuck out while the other wheel was tucked in the fender well. I still have stock shocks/stuts but that's an upgrade you can always do in the future if $$ is an issue.

Brian, thanks for the info. Can I ask how much it was to install the prokit, or what you paid for the whole set up? one other question... The front lip on your gt looks great! is that the CDC chin?

I think my wife paid 220 for the springs from tirerack and I installed them myself in the driveway. I have a BMR ADJ. panhard bar now I think they are around 140 or so and the installation was very simple. The only thing if you install the springs yourself, be sure and get a spring compressor for the front. If you do a search on the forum i'm sure there are some good "how to" threads for installing springs. Thanks for the compliment, yes it's a CDC Classic Chin Spoiler.

Thanks!

I installed my Roush front springs and shocks this past week-end and having a second set of hands to help you out with the spring swap is a definite plus.

You want those springs to compress evenly so the tool doesn't snap off the spring. That's where the second set of hands comes in to help you even out the job.

that's exactly what I do for each spring install.....i usually don't have the luxury with a extra set of helping hands...my "help" normally just watchs and bs's. LOL

I have the FRPP FR3 Handling Pack on my 07 Mustang GT and this package did not require a panhard bar or new UCAs. My car handles great and the back axel is not noticeably out of line even with 20 wheels and 275/35 tires.

If you are going for the look only and not looking for the overall performance, get the springs only. They are around $225. You will eventually need to get the dynamic dampers for the lowered car as your stock ones are not designed for this purpose; they will run you about $450 but I would not worry too much about it at this point (I know someone with this setup and he has not had any problems for two years so far). You should be able to get the look you want for under $350 (if you do the spring install) including the alignment.

FWIW

Labor can be a pain in the ass if you've never done it. Spring compressors suck and the job can take a while if you're doing it yourself. However... it is a ton cheaper.

In my case:

Springs: $200 (FRPP)
Struts/Shocks: $325 (Tokico HPs)
Adj PHB: $80 (BMR)
Alignment: $65

Total: $670

I've done 3 spring swaps now on the S197 and I'd easily do it again. An impact gun makes a huge difference!!!!! It's kind of difficult to use it under the fenders, but makes a world of difference with the spring compressors!!!!! An air ratchet is the ticket while working inside the fenders. Like DarkFire said, it's time consuming, but fairly simple Given a free several hour period, I'd easily DIY and put that labor money towards future mods!

I did a whole suspension upgrade when I lowered my car. Let's see, how much did I spend?

FRPP Springs - $200 (Summit)
FRPP Swaybars - $400 (Bangastang.com)
Tokico struts and shocks - $275 (eBay)
Install - $350 (My mechanic)
Lifetime alignment - $125 (Firestone)

Wow, so that's $1,350 total. But I bought the parts one at a time, so it didn't hurt so much. When I had them all, I just took everything to my mechanic on a Saturday morning. He was done by 1pm, drove over to Firestone and got her aligned.

I love the look, and she handles pretty well. I love seeing those blue sway bars and shocks through the wheels. The ride is a tad harsh though.

This is the eibach sportline kit ( 1.6 front 2.0 rear ), Camber adjusters, adjustable panhard bar, and adjustable third link.

These items were all needed to make the alignment correct.

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