Mongoose Kit from MPH
- Thread starter Stangdriver1119
- Start date
. I should be down there in about a month and a half 
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shotime
Founding Member
For those that have the kit, does it come w/ a recirculating valve to let off the boost pressure or is it a bypass that vents to the atmosphere(BOV)??
Also, when I talked to Tim he said 400 extra for the polished unit, all other places i've seen offer the poslished headunit upgrade for 150-200...just wondering if anyone knew.
Two more questions, what coating is on the MPH boost pipe and the ait inlet from blower to TB? Looks like the air inlet is bare aluminum and the boost pipe polished or ceramic coated??
Also, when I talked to Tim he said 400 extra for the polished unit, all other places i've seen offer the poslished headunit upgrade for 150-200...just wondering if anyone knew.
Two more questions, what coating is on the MPH boost pipe and the ait inlet from blower to TB? Looks like the air inlet is bare aluminum and the boost pipe polished or ceramic coated??
BennyBlown2v
New Member
Recirculating valve and Bypass valve are the same thing (also called Diverter valve). Difference between those and BOV's is that BOV's vent to the atmosphere and the others go back into the intake (before compressor).
MPH boost pipe is powdercoated I believe. Mine had a few blemishes in the coating, and a few rough welds on the inside - but overall its a good peice (though you could probably make one yourself if you have the skills/tools/parts for far far less). And to clear something up, the INLET pipe is what the boost pipe replaces (BEFORE THE COMPRESSOR) and the DISCHARGE pipe is what connects the blower to the throttle body (AFTER COMPRESSOR). It's confusing, seeing as the discharge pipe is the one which actually holds the boost...
Reason for boost pipes being called boost pipes (or powerpipes) is because they actually increase the ammount of boost generated by the blower by allowing it to suck in a larger volume of air more easily from the atmosphere with their larger diameter and less restriction than the stock inlet peices.
MPH boost pipe is powdercoated I believe. Mine had a few blemishes in the coating, and a few rough welds on the inside - but overall its a good peice (though you could probably make one yourself if you have the skills/tools/parts for far far less). And to clear something up, the INLET pipe is what the boost pipe replaces (BEFORE THE COMPRESSOR) and the DISCHARGE pipe is what connects the blower to the throttle body (AFTER COMPRESSOR). It's confusing, seeing as the discharge pipe is the one which actually holds the boost...
Reason for boost pipes being called boost pipes (or powerpipes) is because they actually increase the ammount of boost generated by the blower by allowing it to suck in a larger volume of air more easily from the atmosphere with their larger diameter and less restriction than the stock inlet peices.
Agreed.BennyDaBall said:
In this case, you are correct, the pipe after the head unit on the Centrifugal based kits is considered a discharge pipe. Not that it has any bearing to this particular kit, but don't forget that the same pipe that would normally be used on the discharge end with a Centrifugal blower is actually an inlet pipe when used in conjunction with a Positive Displacement blower. Opening up things on that end for us P/D guys is what aids in increasing air volume (thus increasing boost pressure). Also, boost pressure (as it’s know) that’s created with all blowers is done so when air is accumulated and stacked up within the intake manifold itself, not necessarily the discharge pipe. The only exception to the rule would be a screw type blower, where boost pressure is created within the compressor unit itself and not the manifold. 
Tim used to be on all the time but I bet he is uber busy now. You can try to PM him (cobrakiller) and see if he responds to your questions. You can also do a search for his SN and I bet you come up with a lot of useful info.
Stangdriver1119 said:
car is an 01 with o/r x and steeda cat back 4.10's and PI 4000 stall converter. Automatics eat ALOT of hp. Do the math at the crank and I'm making over 410 at the crank. Keep in mind that it was 90* outside when my car was tuned. Most 5 spd cars with the mongoose kits make between 350-360 rwhp.
I ran a 13.79 @115mph with a 2.7 60ft. if that tells you anything. My car is a very low 12 or high 11 sec car with traction.
I would imagine your car was tuned with a veeeerrrry conservative A/F ratio as well. Even with an auto and 90* heat, your numbers still seem quite low for seeing 12psi. I would expect you're leaving about 30-40rwhp at the table in it's current state of tune.ChrisGT said:
BennyBlown2v
New Member
I agree. Often times the Mongoose tune is VERY rich, I was at 10.1:1 A/F on my first pull and only put down 335rwhp. Leaning it out 4% at WOT I netted 345rwhp @ 10.5:1-11.0:1 A/F, and finally got the numbers in my sig leaning it out as much as the Xcal 2 would let me at 6%. On that last run A/F was between 11.1-11.5.
02LaserRed2V
New Member
ChrisGT said:
+1
I gained 34rwhp/32rwtq going from auto to 6-speed
ChrisGT said:
this is true, but it's MPH's biggest selling point. Power AND reliability!
Yep. On a stock shortblock, safety is the main priority.
hotmustang331
Active Member
Yea chris yu have about 30RWHP left in the tune, and about 30RWHP left with a 5SPD swap.
60RWHP + 345= 405RWHP And considering your almost stock otherwise, and dont have an IC....thats about right.
60RWHP + 345= 405RWHP And considering your almost stock otherwise, and dont have an IC....thats about right.
How has the mongoose kit affected your gas mileage? when driving decently. Just curious. Does anyone has some 1/4 times with the kit on a mostly stock car?
when do you feel the boost come on, i heard below 3000 rpm, you don't gain much power? just cause of the style of blower. I am torn between this blower and the KB, but i don't want to start that argument.
when do you feel the boost come on, i heard below 3000 rpm, you don't gain much power? just cause of the style of blower. I am torn between this blower and the KB, but i don't want to start that argument.
Fuel economy with either blower (Centrifugal or Positive Displacement) should be essentially unchanged when running around under vacuum. Only when manifold pressure becomes positive (under boost) does the computer order then need for additional fuel. Since both blowers utilize bypass valves, any unneeded airflow created during normal driving is re-circulated back into the system. These blowers typically take very little horsepower to turn otherwise, in a non-boosted state.JohnyD05 said:
Most owners of the S-trim based Mongoose kits are running anywhere from low-13's, to mid/high-12's depending on other bolt-ons, transmission configuration, traction, driving habits, etc, etc.
Pullied for 8psi, the kit will usually start seeing positive pressure right around 3,000RPM. When the owner decides 8psi isn't enough and has backed the rest of his engine combo to utilize additional airflow, a pulley swap can be performed that not only increases the total amount of airflow, but as a side effect increases the ramp up rate of the blower as well. As a result, boost would come on sooner and more aggressively.
The main factors you need to consider between the two blowers when buying one are going to be.....
-cost factor (which of these two seems more affordable to you)
-total power output (which in this case isn't really relevant, since both blowers are comparable to one and other)
-where that power is desired (generally, the Centrifugal is going to pull you harder around mid-range and top end, where the Twin Screw is going to pull you harder down low and into the mid range.)
There are other factors to consider as well, but these are the major ones.
hotmustang331
Active Member
^if your ordering a S/C get some of VTs blower cams...or call them and get a custom blower cam that you can use with your stock valve springs.
They dont reccomend their VT stg 1 N/A cams for blower applications.
They dont reccomend their VT stg 1 N/A cams for blower applications.
