hey guys, Im new to the site, but not new to Mustangs. For some reason that IDK my car is doggy and sounds like it backfires on me, but it only does it sometimes. If I take off and get on it through all the gears its perfectly fine. but if I'm cruising through town and then get on it between 2-3k rpms its bogs down is a little jerky and sounds like it backfires a few times, same as if I'm going down the highway and then put it to the floor. Anyone have the same problems? I have a few ideas...but looking for a good starting point to figure this problem out.....love to hear anyone advice!!!!
Dumping The computer diagnostic codes on 86-95 Mustangs Revised 19-May-2009 to update drawing for dumping the codes on 86-88 Mustangs with no check engine light. Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on. Here's the way to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes. Be sure to turn off the A/C, and put the transmission in neutral when dumping the codes. Fail to do this and you will generate a code 67 and not be able to dump the Engine Running codes. Dumping the Engine Running codes: The procedure is the same, you start the engine with the test jumper in place. Be sure the A/C is off and the transmission is in neutral. You'll get an 11, then a 4 and the engine will speed up to do the EGR test. After the engine speed decreases back to idle, it will dump the engine running codes. Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes. See Troublcodes.net Trouble Codes OBD & OBD2 Trouble Codes and Technical info & Tool Store. By BAT Auto Technical If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars. The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector. 89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp. The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector. WARNING!!! There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer. What to expect: You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems. Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test. Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes. Alternate methods: For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart. Or for a nicer scanner see Digital Ford Code Reader (3145) – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.
Good luck...I've been chasing the same problem for a few months now. When you find out what it is please let us know.
Guys, For what it's worth, it's helpful for us reading your posts to know what, if any, modifications you've performed on the car. Typically, when a problem occurs, we like to ask "What did you last change ?"
here is a list of work done to the motor Edelbrock RPM Performer Intake manifold BBK valve covers BBK long tube headers and H-pipe 2.5" Flowmaster stainless exhaust AEM Cold Air Intake w/K&N Filter 24# injectors 190lph fuel pump 70mm Throttle Body Accel Coil Pack Underdrive pulleys NOS Nitrous Oxide System with purge AC Delete Kit Aluminum fan and water pump Tremec 5-speed Transmission 3.73 Gears with full posi rearend Steeda Short Throw Shifter and this is all the suspension Steeda sub-frame connectors Steeda front and rear sway bars Lakewood brakes all around Caster/Camber plates Eibach 1.5" lowering springs BBK Polyurethane Bushings Lakewood Struts so far I haven't tried anything since its been parked for winter due to cold and snow in Wisconsin. so i guess if anyone out there has any ideas let me know...im thinking about supercharging it or stroking it out, or both. any input on any of this would help, also considering the 5 lug conversion, but not sure of the benefits besides being able to put saleen rims on it
ummm....dumb response here by me....but I'm not sure, I dont think I have it because I have complete exhaust from the headers and dont think it would be back on after removing all the exhaust???
No EGR has to do with return gas. Best bet is to run codes. Oh and mine does the same thing with less than a quarter tank of gas so I make sure I never go under that, I assume you have a full tank of gas. Could maybe, possibly you have bad gas?
