Need Help threw some codes last night

whyask

whyask

New Member
Apr 4, 2005
735
1
0
Sacramento
#1
So out of now were im driving to hockey and me CEL comes on, well i pull my tuner from the back seat and check the codes and this is what i got.

P0340
P0344
P1000

Car has been runnning great the last 5 months since the new tune. It the Race tune from bamachips. Im really worried since im not a baller and my warranty just expired. anythought guys. My mods are in my sig. It also been raining here like a mo fo .. im thinkning water got in one of the circuits..mayby ?
 

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#2
It'll be alright. Do you have any problems starting the car? It's going to be the alternator more than likely.

P0340 - This indicates that a problem was detected in the camshaft position sensor circuit. Since it says circuit, that means the problem could lie in any part of the circuit - the sensor itself, the wiring, or the PCM. Don't just replace the CPS (camshaft position sensor) and think that will definitely fix it.

P0344 - Camshaft Position Sensor “A” Circuit Intermittent Bank 1 or Single Sensor

P1000 - It means a drive cycle needs to be completed. Did you re-tune the car? Did you unhook the battery? If so, this is why ..
 
#3
YOUR AWESOME .....no real problems starting the car ...yet LOL ! were i can i find a good alternator ! I think my stereo system could be killing it then ! HAHAh 3 12's, 3 1000 watt amps, full mid and highs ... yeh can you say power draw ! LOL
 
#4
Nasty why do you suggest it would be the alternator? Judging by those codes, I'd suspect something in the camshaft position sensor circuit....

The P1000 code is nothing, that will be there a lot when the monitors are not all run. What I would do since there is no driveability problem, erase the codes and see if they come back. COuld just be a burp, and if they don't come back don't sweat it. If they do come back, then I'd try and get ahold of the block diagram for diagnosing that particular fault. A service manual would have that, or if you know someone that can access alldata. I would have, but I got laid off from my job last week. Should be reemployed soon though so I can get that info if you need it by then.
 
#5
UrbanRedneck said:
Nasty why do you suggest it would be the alternator? Judging by those codes, I'd suspect something in the camshaft position sensor circuit....
Click to expand...

I've heard of a lot of problems similar to these being caused by a bad battier or failing alternator. System doesn't get the full 12 volts and some of the electronics start giving funny values.

But you sound like a service tech, so I'd assume you'd have seen this.
Dan
 
#6
I have seen bad alternators and batteries cause all kinds of funny things in the past, you are right on that. But usually by the time electronics start wigging out there will be other symptoms (slow cranking, dim lights, volt gage reading off, etc.), because all the sensors work on a 5V reference, so it takes a pretty big voltage drop to cause issues like that. BUT if he does have a failing alternator, I suppose it is possible his stereo caused voltage to drop low enough once the car was already running. I still say I'd clear the codes first, but having the battery and alternator checked isn't much of a big deal, so he could do that for piece of mind. If he has a volt meter he can do a basic check of the alternator, it won't tell him it's current output but at least he can see if voltage is dropping too low.
 
#7
whyask said:
YOUR AWESOME .....no real problems starting the car ...yet LOL ! were i can i find a good alternator ! I think my stereo system could be killing it then ! HAHAh 3 12's, 3 1000 watt amps, full mid and highs ... yeh can you say power draw ! LOL
Click to expand...

No problem. It could be the sound system but you're not the first.

UrbanRedneck said:
Nasty why do you suggest it would be the alternator? Judging by those codes, I'd suspect something in the camshaft position sensor circuit....

The P1000 code is nothing, that will be there a lot when the monitors are not all run. What I would do since there is no driveability problem, erase the codes and see if they come back. COuld just be a burp, and if they don't come back don't sweat it. If they do come back, then I'd try and get ahold of the block diagram for diagnosing that particular fault. A service manual would have that, or if you know someone that can access alldata. I would have, but I got laid off from my job last week. Should be reemployed soon though so I can get that info if you need it by then.
Click to expand...

This is a 'fairly common' problem, the very few that we do have. I've seen quite a few cars exhibit these codes and it has always turned out to be the alternator. Ford has a TSB out for this very issue, it's actually linked to quite a few other cars. The P0340 code happens when a diode goes bad in the alternator.

http://www.stangnet.com/images/stories/docs/s197_TSBs/05-23-17.pdf
 
#8
Interesting. I guess it's more of an issue of sensitivity to unrectified AC voltage. You learn something new every day. I still wouldn't swag the alternator though without diagnosing, but that's just me.

As far as the OPs question on where to get a good alternator, personally I would only get one from Ford. But if you have to use aftermarket junk I have had surprisingly good luck with Duralast products in other cars.
 
#9
yeh it has to be that, i cleared the codes about two days ago, made sure every connection (that i could find) was connected, i even un connected them and cleaned them and reconnected them ! And sure as **** last night the codes came back the same ones at that ! NastyStang your awesome .... well i checked my warranty and i thought it was up at 30,xxx instead of 36,xxx. Since i have 32,xxx..... do i just go to ford have them test the alternator and thats it. or are they going to give me a load of crap cause of my tune and all the aftermarket parts I have ? Sorry for the questions this is the first time Ive ever used my warranty
 
#11
so i had my battery tested just to make sure and its fine ... Now with this alternator issue, wouldnt that ALSO affect my battery.... hmmmm, This code keeps comming up every two days and its driving me freaking nuts ! Ford said cause of my tune and intake that the computer may be screwed up and they want to charge me 600 for a new one and then another 500 to diagnose my code problem ! YEH FCK that. there high. My tune and intake have been on since Oct. last year ! There trying to skimp on the warranty coverage. I showed them the TSB report you guys linke (thanks by the way) and they asked were i got it like it was a WMD from Iraq. Like the public cant have that. So after debating with them just to do the damn test they said the warranty dont cover that anymore .....LOL !!! OMG are they ****ing stupid !
 
#12
technically they don't have to warranty a diagnosis of an electronic fault due to the PCM being modified, this is one of those cases where you are kinda screwed.. What I would do if possible is put the stock intake back on and stock tune, see if the problem comes back and if so take it to a different dealer.

OR, go to an independant repair shop and have them test your alternator, it'd probably cost like 30-50 bucks, but make sure they test the diodes. If that turns out good, then it's up to you wether you want to have them diagnose it, fight the dealer more, or I can get you the service information to diagnose it yourself if you have a decent understanding of electrical circuits and a multimeter.
 
#13
For someone with a stock Mustang (me)....I have a question:

After tuning your car...are problems like this (throwing codes) a common occurance? I don't think I'd like to have to worry about things like this happening from time to time.

Also, if I DO go and get my car tuned, should I do it while is still under warranty or wait til it's out....before doing this stuff?

:shrug:
 
#14
Can you re-turn the car to stock? If so, just do that and take it to another dealer. Unless you've got a mod friendly dealer in your area. I've got quite a few in my area so I lucked out I guess. I've got some pretty good warranty claims with some pretty crazy mods on some of my vehicles. Not that any of the warranty claims should of been denied.

Sparty92 said:
For someone with a stock Mustang (me)....I have a question:

After tuning your car...are problems like this (throwing codes) a common occurance? I don't think I'd like to have to worry about things like this happening from time to time.

Also, if I DO go and get my car tuned, should I do it while is still under warranty or wait til it's out....before doing this stuff?

:shrug:
Click to expand...

The tune has NOTHING to do with the codes being displayed. There are more than enough cars that have had this problem with a completely stock car. Hence why there is even a TSB for this issue.

Knock on wood, I haven't had ANY issues with my car since I bought it new late 2007. I've had it tuned since the first 2,000 miles, too.
 
#15
LOL ! Yeh I went in my uniform this morning, and once the guy relized I was in the army , He said .."SGT just go home take off the intake, O/R X and return the car tune back to stock, and your in like sin" ... so since tommorow is my day off (im at work right now) Ill be doing that. He said hopefully its just a quick fix with the alternator and not a more pressing issue... this will be the first time away from my baby (since iraq)

Nasty.. do you have a contact were you got your Roush Grill and front end at .?? I remeber you doing the swap but cant find the link anywere ! Thanks Bro !
 
#16
OK Nasty you the man ! You were right it was the Alternator, The ford techs replaced the alternator, did some other recall crap, I got a free transmission flush and oil change while i was there. They came through in a clinch ! I was extremely impressed with them ! Thanks again for all the help guys !
 
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